Acros Dying - Help Please

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Hey All - Over the last two months my acros have been dying. I have a 112 gallon system redsea 425XLI attached my ICP test and some pictures. Here a coupe of things have suspected and addressed:

1. My phosphates were running high for a while at around 2.5 and I brought them down to about .08 where they are currently
2. A brown algae layer has been covering my equipment and glass. It didn't look like dinos so I let it go a while and just kept cleaning the glass everyday. I did finally bring out my cheap microscope and could not find any dinos. I did find diatoms and some weird little round organisms which showed up as blue in color and had a fine short hairlike layer the outside for movement. May have been some sort of dino that I could not identify from other pictures. I did do the coffee filter test with some tank water shaken up and did find that the algae regrouped and clumped up once I played in sunlight. So I did a 48 hour black out and dosed some hydrogen peroxide and Macro7 for a couple days along with phytoplankton. I have the blue only light on at about 10% and am ramping up. Result - Algae gone but across looking worse than ever.
3. My ICP test shows low Iodine. I dined the recommended amount and has to helped.
4. Added some carbon to my sump in case it had something to do with toxicity from my pays or toadstool. Also a 20% water change. Did not help.
My alkalinity did dip to under 7% when the problem was first happening. I have since adjusted the alkalinity and am at 8.5 now. Alkalinity does seem to fluctuate more and I have had a hard time nailing it down. But I do dose over 15 hours with my Apex. I track with the trident.
5. I did switch from a two part ATI tossing regime to the triton method about 6 months ago. Worked fine at first but maybe that has something to do with my problems keeping all in check. I had a similar problem when I switched to Triton method on my last tank a few years ago.
6. Maybe I have some spare wattage leaking into the water? I plan to take my UV off and check it. It is mounted to the back of my tank and hard to get to, so I have been putting that off.
7. I did get some corals from a source who has had some problems with pests in the past. I dipped the corals three times in three different brand dips but did not quarantine. Stupid me. Maybe that is what I have?
8. I always suspect lighting. But I have two Kessil 380X with 4 T5's as a hybrid. Pretty basic and it was working before with minimal changes since the problems began.
9. I switched to a macro algae nutrient export when I switched to Triton. I had a hard time keeping the CHaeto growing so I switch to fern calurpa. The calurpa did not do a great job of exporting phosphate so I supplemented with Roa Phos, chemipur and some Phosban. CHaeto is now growing so I am weening off the phosphate removers.

I am out of ideas and appreciate any input. Thanks all. tempImageqCNuaN.png tempImageyncwHp.png 39BF41DA-5BA1-4B54-8CA3-729E96703437.jpeg D9A2F375-8FB1-4D35-A21A-B52B63E9480D.jpeg 1C49361D-6BAB-4F86-AF5D-21AD13A42658.jpeg
 

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Lol. Inlike your optimism. I shoukd have taken some closer pics. Several high end acros have bleached out. Bleeeching started at rips and also at bases in some cases. Of course the cheap stuff is fine like the anacropora erc. But warching my homewrecker and walt disney slowly withering away is sad to watch. Hear are some pics.
 

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Well, underneath or from the main part of the body is a bit worrying. is the tissue sloughing off if you hit it only lightly with a baster? That would be a definite sign of death. If it's just white tips you are seeing that isn't that uncommon when they are growing -- 'burnt tips' is a frequent phenomenon that is related to lighting nutrients and alkalinity -- have you checked into that?


I mean you could be right and they are all dying but I am not seeing it really and would be careful not to go crazy making too many changes.
 
3 to 4 drops of seachem iodide a day. Definitely iodine can cause a lot issues. How fast did you drop phosphates and how did you do it. Gfo can strip water and carbon will pull iodine out of the water also. Boron and bromine is low which can cause problems. Reef Moonshine can help you with individual elements. That is what I use.
 
Hey All - Over the last two months my acros have been dying. I have a 112 gallon system redsea 425XLI attached my ICP test and some pictures. Here a coupe of things have suspected and addressed:

1. My phosphates were running high for a while at around 2.5 and I brought them down to about .08 where they are currently
2. A brown algae layer has been covering my equipment and glass. It didn't look like dinos so I let it go a while and just kept cleaning the glass everyday. I did finally bring out my cheap microscope and could not find any dinos. I did find diatoms and some weird little round organisms which showed up as blue in color and had a fine short hairlike layer the outside for movement. May have been some sort of dino that I could not identify from other pictures. I did do the coffee filter test with some tank water shaken up and did find that the algae regrouped and clumped up once I played in sunlight. So I did a 48 hour black out and dosed some hydrogen peroxide and Macro7 for a couple days along with phytoplankton. I have the blue only light on at about 10% and am ramping up. Result - Algae gone but across looking worse than ever.
3. My ICP test shows low Iodine. I dined the recommended amount and has to helped.
4. Added some carbon to my sump in case it had something to do with toxicity from my pays or toadstool. Also a 20% water change. Did not help.
My alkalinity did dip to under 7% when the problem was first happening. I have since adjusted the alkalinity and am at 8.5 now. Alkalinity does seem to fluctuate more and I have had a hard time nailing it down. But I do dose over 15 hours with my Apex. I track with the trident.
5. I did switch from a two part ATI tossing regime to the triton method about 6 months ago. Worked fine at first but maybe that has something to do with my problems keeping all in check. I had a similar problem when I switched to Triton method on my last tank a few years ago.
6. Maybe I have some spare wattage leaking into the water? I plan to take my UV off and check it. It is mounted to the back of my tank and hard to get to, so I have been putting that off.
7. I did get some corals from a source who has had some problems with pests in the past. I dipped the corals three times in three different brand dips but did not quarantine. Stupid me. Maybe that is what I have?
8. I always suspect lighting. But I have two Kessil 380X with 4 T5's as a hybrid. Pretty basic and it was working before with minimal changes since the problems began.
9. I switched to a macro algae nutrient export when I switched to Triton. I had a hard time keeping the CHaeto growing so I switch to fern calurpa. The calurpa did not do a great job of exporting phosphate so I supplemented with Roa Phos, chemipur and some Phosban. CHaeto is now growing so I am weening off the phosphate removers.

I am out of ideas and appreciate any input. Thanks all. tempImageqCNuaN.png tempImageyncwHp.png 39BF41DA-5BA1-4B54-8CA3-729E96703437.jpeg D9A2F375-8FB1-4D35-A21A-B52B63E9480D.jpeg 1C49361D-6BAB-4F86-AF5D-21AD13A42658.jpeg
How old is the tank?

Chemical stability is easy. The biome to support Acropora takes at least 12 months.
 
I did drip phosphates quickly over a couple days. May have been too fast. I’ll dose sow iodine for sure. Thanks
 
3 to 4 drops of seachem iodide a day. Definitely iodine can cause a lot issues. How fast did you drop phosphates and how did you do it. Gfo can strip water and carbon will pull iodine out of the water also. Boron and bromine is low which can cause problems. Reef Moonshine can help you with individual elements. That is what I use.


Carbon does not remove iodide or iodate from seawater. That's a myth, IMO, based on reefers misunderstanding of what the iodine number is for GAC. It is a measure of surface are for binding I2 in fresh water. It does not indicate any binding of iodide or iodate from seawater.

It is true that iodide can deplete fairly rapidly because algae and some other organisms consume it, but that does not, IMO, indicate that dosing it is useful for even the organisms that take it up. I'm not convinced that most hard corals need it (there's no evidence of this in the scientific literature). Many folks, including myself, stopped dosing after a while and see no difference, but it is easy enough to experiment with, and I recommend experimental dosing for anyone who thinks they may need iodine.

Where are you getting the idea that bromide and borate being low are a problem for corals? I don't think either is demonstrated to be true. In any case, it is not any problem here since his values are spot on natural levels.
 
This would be my bet for sure.
2.5 to 0.8 over a couple days is pretty intense.

I agree that might be an issue, both by how high it is or a rapid drop or both.
 
Carbon does not remove iodide or iodate from seawater. That's a myth, IMO, based on reefers misunderstanding of what the iodine number is for GAC. It is a measure of surface are for binding I2 in fresh water. It does not indicate any binding of iodide or iodate from seawater.

It is true that iodide can deplete fairly rapidly because algae and some other organisms consume it, but that does not, IMO, indicate that dosing it is useful for even the organisms that take it up. I'm not convinced that most hard corals need it (there's no evidence of this in the scientific literature). Many folks, including myself, stopped dosing after a while and see no difference, but it is easy enough to experiment with, and I recommend experimental dosing for anyone who thinks they may need iodine.

Where are you getting the idea that bromide and borate being low are a problem for corals? I don't think either is demonstrated to be true. In any case, it is not any problem here since his values are spot on natural levels.
Thank you for posting this,

My experience with dosing iodine is that it results in increased Algae growth. I saw no positive benefits at all.

Perhaps a deficit below NSW values results in a lack of coloration in some SPS coral?
 

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