not sure if it is a gusset? It is like a triangle length to fit in the corner, but has the "flat" side which is facing into the tank, rounded in a concave way to be smooth..? The pics should show it better than i can explain
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After watching the video multiple times it looks like it's one of a few things:
1) a triangle rod solvent welded into the corner
2) a triangle rod bonded into the corner with 2-part (weld on 40) - my guess is this, based on the shape of the air bubbles in the joint, which don't appear to be air intrusion but rather pocket formation due to not totally eliminating the bubbles from the mix before pouring, which is generally OK
3) a straight up pour of Weld-on 40 into each seam
Either way, someone screwed the pooch when they put the tanks together in the first place.
BTW, I would only use wo 42 for gusset repairs. 3 and 4 tend to be too thin to adhere the gusset to both panels, especially if the 90 degree angle has now changed due to warping.
I wouldn't recommend a gusset over a gusset, you'd just be piling up bandages. I personally would not feel comfortable fixing this seam, regardless of method.
I tend to agree here. But if you wanted to try for a repair, it's going to be multi-level. Short of taking a panel off and replacing it, it's going to be something like this:
1) empty tank and dry out really really well - like with fans, hair dryers, etc. Need to get all the water out of the affected joints. If possible, create a separation in the affected area and insert a pin (even a stick-pin or sewing needle) to open up the joint and get it super dry. Blow out with compressed air, etc. Might take a while, like days or even a week to get it really dry.
2) use WO #3 or #4 to seal up the breach. When you do this, make sure you leave those needles/pins in place so that the solvent can get in as deep into the void as possible. After you get it in there, pull the pins out and clamp everything together as best you can. So clamp across the outside, and on the inside a brace to push outward, might take a bit to figure that out but should be able to do with with some wood 1x2's
Edit: clamps should not be overly tight. Just snug enough so that air won't sneak into the joint.
3) after a day or curing, take all the clamps out and apply Weld-on 40 to the affected joint. Prop the tank up so that the affected corner is at the bottom creating a "V". Rough up the surface of the old gusset with sandpaper, 80 or 40 grit or something. Rough up a bit of the panel adjacent to either side of it also, maybe 1/4" or so along the entire joint. vacuum out well, blow out, clean the entire bonding surface with denatured alcohol, etc - get rid of all particles. Pour the 40 into the V over the old gusset/joint/whatever it is and make sure you have about 1/2" worth for coverage. Let that cure up for a few days and that's likely to be about as good as you're going to get.
Anyone else see a flaw with that process?
