holy crap that's a mess. even if you patched the small leak, i would wonder how long before the entire thing bursts open. is that all dried cement on the inside seam?
Acrylic Fabrication Q & A
- Thread starter Turbo's Aquatics
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Drauka99
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Yes it's a lot of cement, looks a lot like my silicon joints. I think he added more cement when he had the leak rather than pinpointing the leak he just slathered on more weldon
personally, if that were mine i'd replace the whole thing. if that's his repair job, you have to ask - how accurate was he when he originally assembled it?
Drauka99
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Believe it or not the tank is very solid. Only that one spot is an issue. I am willing to try to seal it. I am not out much if it doesn't work.
Really just looking for which product to use for the best chance of sucess.
Really just looking for which product to use for the best chance of sucess.
OP
OP
Dang man! You've got more than just one thing going on there - I see bubbles in the joint, crazing, cracks in the panel...the latter it the biggest worry.
I'm with @cromag08. That joint is a hot mess. It would be really ugly, but Weld-on 40 and some oversized gussets would be your best hope. That won't stop the crack from progressing, but you can slather it on the outside too and keep it at bay I guess. And watch it like a hawk!
I'm with @cromag08. That joint is a hot mess. It would be really ugly, but Weld-on 40 and some oversized gussets would be your best hope. That won't stop the crack from progressing, but you can slather it on the outside too and keep it at bay I guess. And watch it like a hawk!
Tango2
Active Member
I just began building my sump, and overall everything is going together nicely. All of my joints have been internal so far, meaning failure would not result in a leak. They aren't perfect, but there's room for improvement. Can you tell from the pictures what I may be doing wrong?
This is 3/8 acrylic and wo3. Most bubbles are appearing a few minutes after solvent application.
This is 3/8 acrylic and wo3. Most bubbles are appearing a few minutes after solvent application.
Tango2
Active Member
I did use the pin method, and I'm applying the wo at several locations around the seam, and it sucks into the entire joint and looks pretty good. I wait about a minute or so and pull the pins, ensure alignment, and wait. 5 minutes or so, I came back to look at it and noticed all the bubbles, that weren't there when I originally walked away.
Edit: maybe my edges aren't smooth enough. That is a possibility.
Edit: maybe my edges aren't smooth enough. That is a possibility.
I just noticed that you said you were applying Weldon at several locations around the seam. are you not running wo along the entire length of each seam?
Tango2
Active Member
Not exactly. If I put the applicator tip in one spot and slowly squeeze, the solvent "snakes" it's way around the entire joint. I can apply glue for several inches of joint without moving the application site, if that makes sense.
Won't do much good after the fact, unfortunately. is it possible there wasn't even pressure between th pins and the pieces of acrylic?
That does make sense. you want a good amount of wo so it's best to run it along the entire seam. when you're done you can still move the top piece around a little until it's in position.
OP
OP
Are you bonding on boards covered with foam? Looks to me like it could be this. Dry fit should be 100% flush before you add pins. Also do you blow bonding surfaces off with compressed air and wipe with denatured alcohol prior to dry fit? Then blow out joint with canned air before adding solvent?
Lowell Lemon
2500 Club Member
Careful with the acohol as it increases the crazing in almost every application. Just use small amount of diswashing liquid with a large amount of water (few drops to a pint or quart) and a soft cotton cloth to wipe the surfaces before bonding. In fact just apply a little acohol to a flame polished surface and watch the edge craze instantly. Even works on some polished surfaces if the part got "hot" during the polishing process. Never clean a tank or sump with acohol if you want to prevent crazing. This directive use to be written on instructions from every manufacturer like Sea Clear, TruVue, Clarity Plus, Tricon, and you can also find in in the fabracation instructions from the various acrylic sheet manufacturers.
The dry fit making sure all surfaces are square and flat is the most important step. Saw edges will always bubble. Look back in this thread to find the pictures I posted for a router fence to remove the saw edges before bonding.
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OP
OP
Yes, don't apply alcohol to a flame-polished surface. If you soak a rag in DNA (denatured alcohol) and lay it on a piece of acrylic overnight, it will be a mess by the morning
But nothing cleans the surface better than a small amount of DNA on a cotton cloth with a quick pass. Do that, blow it off with compressed air, and you're solid. This is the advice that James (Acrylics) has always given out so I trust that, plus I've spoken to him on the phone about it.
I agree though, that you should never use it on a finished product. This is only for use just prior to bonding, because you need that surface to be free of all grease, oils, fingerprints, etc.
Also be careful with the canned air, esp when the can is new/full. Don't tip it such that the liquid comes out, you will need to pull the prepped joint apart and clean it again. But it is essentially deionized in a sense, so it gets all the static off.
But nothing cleans the surface better than a small amount of DNA on a cotton cloth with a quick pass. Do that, blow it off with compressed air, and you're solid. This is the advice that James (Acrylics) has always given out so I trust that, plus I've spoken to him on the phone about it.
I agree though, that you should never use it on a finished product. This is only for use just prior to bonding, because you need that surface to be free of all grease, oils, fingerprints, etc.
Also be careful with the canned air, esp when the can is new/full. Don't tip it such that the liquid comes out, you will need to pull the prepped joint apart and clean it again. But it is essentially deionized in a sense, so it gets all the static off.
Or you can use an air compressor and turn the psi way down, which is what I do. that canned air can get expensive if you'll be using a lot.
