Acrylic Fabrication Q & A

cromag27 · Mar 26, 2016

Floyd R Turbo said:
You would want a 2-flute straight bit for edge prep, I like the Bosch 3/4" diameter cutter at Lowes, standby bit for me

http://www.lowes.com/pd_29287-353-85265MC_1z0wclcZ1z140vc__?productId=1081969&pl=1

For trimming off excess you want a spiral upcut flush cutter, this one is 1/4" shank, also what I use for template routing

https://www.google.com/search?q=rou...oe=utf-8#q=router+bit+spiral+upcut+flush+trim

I also have a 1/2" diameter spiral upcut monster from amana. $$$$. Whiteside bits are decent and less $

I use Freud exclusively. one of my faves:

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/84...ral-router-bit-triple-flute-12d-2cl-12sh.aspx

Lowell Lemon · Mar 26, 2016

Larry Linne said:
Floyd, I have an older 90 tank I need to polish out. I had actually been in contact with the guys on "Tanked" who told me that they use "Finesse-it" by 3M. The thing I can't figure out is what type of buffer or polisher to use. Any suggestions?

Well I am not Floyd but there are foam pads at the automotive paint stores that I used with Finess-it in both the polish and then the Hand Glaze as tthe final step. It is a step that is necessary in many new builds to clean up butt-seams and inside 45 degree seems after use of Weldon-40 which is a two part thickend adhesive. The pads attach to a 10" car buffer. Use at low speed. If you need part numbers let me know via PM and I will get them for you.

cromag27 · Mar 26, 2016

Something i actually haven't tried before....

Any tips on how to create these one piece, bent overflow boxes?

mr.Green · Mar 26, 2016

Does anyone know if acrylic can be damaged, perhaps loose its transparency and become opaque from UV-light? I want to get a lid for my tank, with lights above of course.

GROSSR · Mar 26, 2016

Floyd, wonderful read. I am fight a leaking in a tube I glued up for my 2 part. I built a ATS and that went perfect, because I think the cuts were straight. I have tried to resolve this leak by reapplying some more solvent with shavings of acrylic at the base of the tube, and it looks like it got worse. any thoughts?

How do you verify what you built is leak free, and if you do find a "leak", how do you fix it?

thanks

rich

Turbo's Aquatics · Mar 26, 2016

I'll have to get back to everyone later, off with family today...anyone else feel free to jump in

cromag27 · Mar 26, 2016

mr.Green said:
Does anyone know if acrylic can be damaged, perhaps loose its transparency and become opaque from UV-light? I want to get a lid for my tank, with lights above of course.

I have been making acrylic screen lids for years and have never received any feedback about them losing transparency under leds or t5. I don't recommend people use them with mh but that is a heat issue. acrylic will warp under intense heat.

Acrylic lids needs to be built in a specific way, however. you can't just lay a solid piece of acrylic over your tank or else it will warp. lexan is even better but more expensive.

cromag27 · Mar 26, 2016

GROSSR said:
Floyd, wonderful read. I am fight a leaking in a tube I glued up for my 2 part. I built a ATS and that went perfect, because I think the cuts were straight. I have tried to resolve this leak by reapplying some more solvent with shavings of acrylic at the base of the tube, and it looks like it got worse. any thoughts?

How do you verify what you built is leak free, and if you do find a "leak", how do you fix it?

thanks

rich

What method and materials did you use? I don't mess with the 'shavings' method because, as you've found out, it's not always appropriate or effective.

GROSSR · Mar 26, 2016

cromag08 : I have a cell cast 6" acrylic tube. I used the pin method, my pins are shirt pins, which I have used 7 times previously, and it has worked perfectly 5 of 7 times. I have "Weldon 4" with the needle tip applicator. I put the pins in, spray the weldon in, I watch the weldon 4 work its way around the tube, wait about 20 seconds, remove each pin, and I put a book on the top of the tube. I waited about 1 week before putting water in, and not a drop leaked. The tube is not under pressure, except the liquid in the tube. Once I put in the part 2 of the 2 part, I noticed a small amount of water. I put a pan underneath and then I noticed part 2 starting to solidify outside the tube. Then I noticed the tube with part 1 was doing the same thing, except the calcium just dripped. I tried putting some aquarium silicone on the outside around the base, hoping this would do it. I know silicone and acrylic don't work. Just tried it, then I removed the silicone, and tried the shavings method, and the part 2 tube leaked even more. I have removed the tube with part 2 and using a 1 gallon milk container. I am looking for an answer, and if necessary I will try the silicone on the inside of the tube. I thought I was cursed with small hands, however it has been a blessing.

what do you do for a leak? I have to agree with you the "havings" method hasn't worked for me. 0 for 2 with the shavings. I was thinking of using 2 part epoxy as well.

thanks

rich

cromag27 · Mar 26, 2016

Not ideal, but you could run a thick bead of Weldon 16 around the inside seams. stay away from silicone for water tight seals.

GROSSR · Mar 26, 2016

What would be ideal?

rich

cromag27 · Mar 26, 2016

Starting over.

GROSSR · Mar 26, 2016

No, no, no. I know you are correct. I could just use a gallon jug. I like the idea of 20" tall clear tube with my 2 part in each. I will try the weldon 16. Now if it was a pressure situation, I would start over.

thanks

rich

cromag27 · Mar 26, 2016

Yeah try the 16 but make there are no air pockets. I use a syringe for better control.

Lowell Lemon · Mar 27, 2016

cromag08 said:
Something i actually haven't tried before....

Any tips on how to create these one piece, bent overflow boxes?

Rout the slots first and then contact FTM plastics on line for a strip heater with at least a 1/2" heater zone. They are available in a 24" length and it is advised to use their controller. Not cheap but is the best on the market for the money. I often turn the part over to affect equal heating on both sides of the part before placing the part on a form to cool.

Lowell Lemon · Mar 27, 2016

mr.Green said:
Does anyone know if acrylic can be damaged, perhaps loose its transparency and become opaque from UV-light? I want to get a lid for my tank, with lights above of course.

Most cell cast acrylic is U.V. stable or resistant but I recommend thin polycarbonate because it is more impact resistant and warp resistant in high mosture environments and it is also U.V. stable. Acrylic lids will warp unless quite thick or braced with strips of acrylic on edge to prevent them turning into a potato chip shape.

Lowell Lemon · Mar 27, 2016

GROSSR said:
cromag08 : I have a cell cast 6" acrylic tube. I used the pin method, my pins are shirt pins, which I have used 7 times previously, and it has worked perfectly 5 of 7 times. I have "Weldon 4" with the needle tip applicator. I put the pins in, spray the weldon in, I watch the weldon 4 work its way around the tube, wait about 20 seconds, remove each pin, and I put a book on the top of the tube. I waited about 1 week before putting water in, and not a drop leaked. The tube is not under pressure, except the liquid in the tube. Once I put in the part 2 of the 2 part, I noticed a small amount of water. I put a pan underneath and then I noticed part 2 starting to solidify outside the tube. Then I noticed the tube with part 1 was doing the same thing, except the calcium just dripped. I tried putting some aquarium silicone on the outside around the base, hoping this would do it. I know silicone and acrylic don't work. Just tried it, then I removed the silicone, and tried the shavings method, and the part 2 tube leaked even more. I have removed the tube with part 2 and using a 1 gallon milk container. I am looking for an answer, and if necessary I will try the silicone on the inside of the tube. I thought I was cursed with small hands, however it has been a blessing.

what do you do for a leak? I have to agree with you the "havings" method hasn't worked for me. 0 for 2 with the shavings. I was thinking of using 2 part epoxy as well.

thanks

rich

Rich,
First of all not all cell cast tubes are made of linear acrylic. This may be your problem. If the tube was from Reynolds Polymer then you would have to use something that will bond to cross linked acrylic resin. Reynolds will not sell your their secret sauce but Weldon 35 will work in many situations to bond linear acrylic to cross linked acrylic. I would have the top and bottom cut off and try bonding with the Weldon 35 or have Reynolds bond it for you if they made the tube.

cromag27 · Mar 28, 2016

Lowell Lemon said:
Rout the slots first and then contact FTM plastics on line for a strip heater with at least a 1/2" heater zone. They are available in a 24" length and it is advised to use their controller. Not cheap but is the best on the market for the money. I often turn the part over to affect equal heating on both sides of the part before placing the part on a form to cool.

I have a strip heater. I was thinking about making a wood template and heating it in the oven at 400 degrees.

cromag27 · Mar 28, 2016

Lowell Lemon said:
Rich,
First of all not all cell cast tubes are made of linear acrylic. This may be your problem. If the tube was from Reynolds Polymer then you would have to use something that will bond to cross linked acrylic resin. Reynolds will not sell your their secret sauce but Weldon 35 will work in many situations to bond linear acrylic to cross linked acrylic. I would have the top and bottom cut off and try bonding with the Weldon 35 or have Reynolds bond it for you if they made the tube.

Yeah they call it r-cast. I believe a lot of public aquariums use their products. I'm not sure if a lot of retailers sell it though?

cromag27 · Mar 28, 2016

Lowell Lemon said:
Most cell cast acrylic is U.V. stable or resistant but I recommend thin polycarbonate because it is more impact resistant and warp resistant in high mosture environments and it is also U.V. stable. Acrylic lids will warp unless quite thick or braced with strips of acrylic on edge to prevent them turning into a potato chip shape.

Polycarb is a better option but more expensive and can be more difficult to machine. I've been making acrylic screen lids for years and have only had one warp. the guy switched from leds to mh and the heat killed it.