Acrylic Fabrication Q & A

And while we're talking about safety, take off all jewelry and pull back your hair if it's long. I do a lot of woodworking as well and always put my hair in a pony and remove my rings, necklaces and bracelets. hearing and eye protection too - always! wood is bad in your eyes but acrylic is worse.

Excellent points. I'm just a little jealous you have enough hair to put in a pony tail!
 
@cromag08 @Floyd R Turbo @Lowell Lemon
On the other forum this is as stated by James (Envision Acrylics), when talking about pins/wires etc. He uses tungsten wire.

Diameter of pins he uses.
" But yes, .008" for thinner material, .014" for thicker.

For thinner material (<3/4") I just have to push down on the material. The foam will compress and allow for insertion of the wire. On thicker material, yes, I lift the piece to allow the wire in. When the solvent is applied, I then release the spring clamps and set the joint,"


Do ya'll use such thin wires?
.008" would be 0.2 mm
I used .4mm wire on a 8mm joint. the capillary was slick as slick ross. But solvent went dry too fast nearly had a 10 sec frame to pull them pins. I didn't had no ethylene dichloride to slow down the reaction time. So i went with 4 % Acid and 96% DCM. And while looking at it, its almost like a capillary method, when you pull them pins you dont feel the bang or thud of solvent splashing out. I'll post a pic later when i lift the assembly.
 
Them pics.
Still not getting it perfect. But with limited resources, it's heck of a progress as the way it's going.

@Floyd R Turbo
Could you elaborate on butt welding 2 sheets using 2 part.

IMG_20160713_171317_HDR.jpg


IMG_20160713_171302_HDR.jpg
 
Hi Bud,
My router blew in flames, stray voltage or something blew the motor. I'm getting a decent 2 1/4 HP router but it has a plunge base. Would it make a difference while routing for acrylics.
 
One of those Bosch motors with both bases work well. As far as plunge vs standard, I prefer the regular ones because it is allot easier to make fine adjustments.
 
Plunge is fine, just make sure it's lock down so it doesn't accidently plunge.

Hi Bud,
My router blew in flames, stray voltage or something blew the motor. I'm getting a decent 2 1/4 HP router but it has a plunge base. Would it make a difference while routing for acrylics.
 
Here's a question for the big brains. I make a lot of ato containers and I use 3/8" but I get a lot of requests for a black or colored top. I was thinking about just using 1/4" for the top since I can't easily get 3/8" in black or colors. Yay or nay?
 
Here's a question for the big brains. I make a lot of ato containers and I use 3/8" but I get a lot of requests for a black or colored top. I was thinking about just using 1/4" for the top since I can't easily get 3/8" in black or colors. Yay or nay?

I am not a big brain but if the column height is not over the 3/8" material requirement you should have no problems at all.
 
One of those Bosch motors with both bases work well. As far as plunge vs standard, I prefer the regular ones because it is allot easier to make fine adjustments.

Our country is the junkyard for obsolete products. Hence i have very limited buying options. Pain!

Do ya'll flush trim on the table itself? or use the router manually?
 
Hi Bud,
My router blew in flames, stray voltage or something blew the motor. I'm getting a decent 2 1/4 HP router but it has a plunge base. Would it make a difference while routing for acrylics.
A good rule of thumb: never plunge route acrylic. Or as James/Acrylics puts it "never plunge route acrylic, please"
 
I do it on the table. With a spiral bit that pulls away from the bearing. This pushes the chips away from the bearing and actually aids in pulling the acrylic down towards the table. I think it is actually called an upcut bit. Since the standard orientation is for the router to be on a base and the bit to be facing down. In that orientation, the chips would be flying up. It is a bit confusing. The main thing is that the chips fly away from the bearing.

http://www.carbideprocessors.com/2-...1-1-4-cut-length-1-2-shank-whiteside-rft5125/

I have used this model allot. They last a good amount of time, and leave a nice edge. They make it in a 2" long version as well, but I would think you would only use it if you were cutting some pretty thick acrylic. I am sure you can get nicer bits, but I think you probably get to a point of diminishing returns. What brand are you guys using?
 
A good rule of thumb: never plunge route acrylic. Or as James/Acrylics puts it "never plunge route acrylic, please"

I don't wanna plunge route anything, it's just that availability of good reputed router, which has a plunge base. I want to mount it under the table and replace my burnt router. I have read, plunge routers aren't so stable as fixed based. I don't have much experience with routers. My use would be only limited for acrylics.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

New Posts

Back
Top