Acrylic Fabrication Q & A

SerpentSlick · Sep 6, 2016

At the appropriate depth could I just route it the seem straight across the front panel?

With the sides and top of the front panel still bonded, would filling a uniform gap straight down change any of the advice/tips you've suggested?

cromag27 · Sep 6, 2016

I tried plunge routing acrylic once. I do it for woodworking a lot. I did it once. once only. lol.

SerpentSlick · Sep 6, 2016

Lol. I understand why!

It seems intimidating as I don't want to have to scrap the whole tank.

I'm not sure if I worded it the second time well enough to make my question clear.

If I did NOT plunge cut, but instead cut-in from the side(like a normal dato) and just routered the entire length of the seam of the front panel, would that change the general opinion of this "procedure"?

I guess I'm not sure which portion of doing so makes you guys not want to recommend this style fix. I just want to fully grasp the advice and warnings so I understand the logic and physics behind your suggestions and concerns.

cromag27 · Sep 6, 2016

How would you get the router bit down where the panels meet? or am I missing something?

SerpentSlick said:
Lol. I understand why!

It seems intimidating as I don't want to have to scrap the whole tank.

I'm not sure if I worded it the second time well enough to make my question clear.

If I did NOT plunge cut, but instead cut-in from the side(like a normal dato) and just routered the entire length of the seam of the front panel, would that change the general opinion of this "procedure"?

I guess I'm not sure which portion of doing so makes you guys not want to recommend this style fix. I just want to fully grasp the advice and warnings so I understand the logic and physics behind your suggestions and concerns.

SerpentSlick · Sep 6, 2016

cromag08 said:
How would you get the router bit down where the panels meet? or am I missing something?

Okay, so in the first pic the painters tape shows the general area which have the voids.

The second pic shows my idea on where to penetrate the panel for the dato. The I would basically be following the top side of the bottom of the bottom panel and removing the "weld" and a tiny portion of the bottom of the front panel.

Tell me if that makes more sense.

cromag27 · Sep 6, 2016

Yikes I would not do that. I would be afraid of ruining whatever structural integrity that's still there. I thought you meant routing on the inside.

Turbo's Aquatics · Sep 6, 2016

A dato bit would work I think. Hadn't thought of that

SerpentSlick · Sep 6, 2016

Would it be best to go, say 10mm deep with the dato, and leave a touch of meat on the bones there?

Or perhaps still do some sort of a V but using the same technique?

SerpentSlick · Sep 6, 2016

By-the-way, thanks for all the input, guys! I really appreciate it! I meant to say something yesterday!

cromag27 · Sep 6, 2016

Even with a dado, one wrong movement and you're screwed.

Floyd R Turbo said:
A dato bit would work I think. Hadn't thought of that

SerpentSlick · Sep 6, 2016

Well, that doesn't sound fun! Lol

Turbo's Aquatics · Sep 6, 2016

I wish James was on here...he might be able to help...

SerpentSlick · Sep 7, 2016

Well, this project has already been a GIANT pain in my butt so I'm going to do everything I can to get it right the first time.

I'll gladly listen to James for another perspective! This will be my first time working with acrylic so I can use any and all sound advice.

cromag27 · Sep 7, 2016

Honestly, it doesn't sound like something you want to do with your limited experience with acrylic. No offense. are there any fabricators local to you who could help you out?

SerpentSlick · Sep 7, 2016

None taken.

I haven't researched that yet. I'd prefer to do it myself, if possible, but I figure I needed to research it first.

SerpentSlick · Sep 7, 2016

If it came to that I'd probably do the gusset. I've sunk too much cash into this to justify hiring anyone at this point.

Had I seen this(assuming it was already there) and knowing that the rusted stand was powder and not paint I would have just passed on it. Lol.

Oh, well.

cromag27 · Sep 7, 2016

In that case I vote for gusset and wo 40/42.

SerpentSlick · Sep 7, 2016

Yeah, it's looking that way, isn't it?! Haha

I saw the link Turbo posted regarding the right triangle gussets, but is there a supply shop that might typically have them locally? I live in the Dallas Ft.Worth area and I imagine shipping will kill me on that piece. (Ill double check, obviously.)

Turbo's Aquatics · Sep 7, 2016

I could have sworn that I had some left over...let me check again tonight before you place an order. I know I even have shipping tubes and all. Interestingly enough, I was just over at another member's house last night dropping something off and he happens to have bought the 180g sump I shored up using this stuff...I took a few pics, I'll post them in a minute. He said it's the most rock solid sump he's ever had. It was built by a guy who just saw-cut all the pieces and wicked the welds (capillary welds) and one vertical seam split, then when he lifted it by the euro it ripped off clean and snapped in 2 places. It was a "fun" rebuild project...

One thing you have to accept is that without a vacuum chamber to suck the air out of the WO40, you're going to have some air bubbles in the mix, but that doesn't really affect the structural integrity of the joint with a big gusset like this. It just doesn't look awesome. But a piece of trim molding makes it all go away!