Acrylic paint extender- Eliminating brush strokes | Self leveling

[MnFish1]

(AFAIK) I do not know what that means, as for me I don't care ( i don't care) I try to help others and clowns get involved to make it into something that's not really interesting at all, good night my friend.

FYI - AKAIK means 'as far as I know'. And - the abbreviation you used on this site - I believe is against the TOS (Oh - that means Terms of Service = rules)

 

[Reefahholic]

But: https://www.artnews.com/art-news/product-recommendations/best-acrylic-paint-extenders-1202692652/

I wonder if the art acrylic is the same as the acrylic used for wood.

 

[Reefahholic]

For your second coat you swapped brush for a "2 inch purdy" you forgot to mention, in trade 3inch was a bit too heavy and leaves large brush strokes... You called it 'ropes' yes your video is definitely ropey.... I thought this was aquariums but great so far

I assuming you thought that was me in the video. LOL.

 

[Reefahholic]

He is talking about an aquarium stand - right? He asked for acrylic paint extenders - right? I gave him a link - suggested possible spraying. I'm not a professional painter. If it were ME - I would hire someone to do the painting of a piece of furniture in my house - whether an aquarium stand or a door. (I can handle painting a wall). I'm not sure there is a perfect solution here anyway - Over time things get scratched, bumped, etc. The question I think - was about avoiding brush strokes. I'm not sure why you're so worked up though - in all honesty. He wasn't using the video to defend the guy or his paint - he was only trying to define the term 'paint extender'? Right?

Exactly.

 

[Reefahholic]

Floetrol for water based paint (latex/acrylic)
Penetrol for oil based paint

Good quality brush, good quality paint. If you get good quality cabinet/trim paint many of them are self leveling. They also set up/cure harder than traditional paints so they won't get "sticky" and will be far more durable. More than a few are actually polyurethane based and when done right will give you a nice glassy finish.

Thx for that. Heard of Floetrol, but wasn’t sure it worked with acrylic. Also, I did not know that some paints had self leveling agents in them. Appreciate the information. Maybe I should buy a high quality paint.

 

[BackToTheReef]

Thx for that. Heard of Floetrol, but wasn’t sure it worked with acrylic. Also, I did not know that some paints had self leveling agents in them. Appreciate the information. Maybe I should buy a high quality paint.

Not sure what you mean? Acrylic paint is the same as latex based, they are both water based products and names pretty much can be used interchangeably. Do you mean Alkyd paint? Which would be an oil based product.

Flood products (Floetrol and Penetrol among others) are amazing products. Behr has a cabinet paint I am using on the trim and door jambs/frames in my remodel and have been really impressed with it so far. I just got a shipment of trim so it's about to be put to the real test.

 

[Reefahholic]

Not sure what you mean? Acrylic paint is the same as latex based, they are both water based products and names pretty much can be used interchangeably. Do you mean Alkyd paint? Which would be an oil based product.

Flood products (Floetrol and Penetrol among others) are amazing products. Behr has a cabinet paint I am using on the trim and door jambs/frames in my remodel and have been really impressed with it so far. I just got a shipment of trim so it's about to be put to the real test.

I guess I was thinking acrylic wasn’t water or oil based but like a hybrid of the two. Not sure why I was thinking that.

So M1, Flood, etc…should work with the acrylic no problem them.

Does the Behr you speak of have the self leveling in it or is it just a good quality paint that lays down well? What is it?

I’ve been hearing some good things about the two paints below:

 

[BackToTheReef]

It does have a self leveler in it. Behr Cabinet & Trim paint, I've been using the Satin in pure white but lots of colors available. Not familiar with the two you posted but the SW is a urethane base trim paint so it is a similar beast to the Behr.

The waterborne alkyd is a hybrid, there were only a few around when I was still in the industry but it has become more common. You get the penetration and adhesion of an oil base (alkyd) with the clean up of a water base.

The paint I am using is: https://www.homedepot.com/p/BEHR-PR...erior-Cabinet-and-Trim-Paint-752001/313655914

 

[Reefahholic]

It does have a self leveler in it. Behr Cabinet & Trim paint, I've been using the Satin in pure white but lots of colors available. Not familiar with the two you posted but the SW is a urethane base trim paint so it is a similar beast to the Behr.

The waterborne alkyd is a hybrid, there were only a few around when I was still in the industry but it has become more common. You get the penetration and adhesion of an oil base (alkyd) with the clean up of a water base.

The paint I am using is: https://www.homedepot.com/p/BEHR-PR...erior-Cabinet-and-Trim-Paint-752001/313655914

Very nice. Looks like a great choice. Thanks for all your help. May have to try it.

 

[Reefahholic]

Give this Benjamin Moore Advance a look. It’s worth the watch.

 

[Troy H.]

I wonder if the art acrylic is the same as the acrylic used for wood.

They are a bit thicker, so as to achieve texture when wanted

 

[Troy H.]

Just saw this, and could not help myself but to post...
The guy that is doing the included video is obviously not a professional painter, and there are some inaccuracies, I would find a do-it-yourself painting forum instead, but just in case anyone looks at this, please disregard the information in the video..

So... If you are using a house paint that says either latex or acrylic, then it is more than likely water based paint, in which case you could use anything that says latex paint extender to slow the drying time, so that it's easier to work with, and has more time for brush strokes to level out of the finish before it dries... It also helps if you are painting large surfaces, so as to help keep what we call a "wet edge". Basically, you don't want to brush back into paint that is partially dried, because it will "flash" (make a dull spot that shows brush strokes where you have overlapped with wet into partially dry paint)

However, if you have a paint that says acrylic but smells exactly like fingernail polish, then it could be some sort of cross-link base, or acetone base, so you should always check the label of the paint under "Thinning and Clean up" to be sure whether it is water-based, or some other type of base...

By the way, acrylic or latex are just different types of synthetic resin, this post is long so I will not compare and contrast the two here... But know that there is another water-based cleanup synthetic resin which is called "waterborne" it was basically designed to replace oil based paint, and has very high adhesion, so with a light sanding, you can use it on something that was previously painted with oil based without necessarily needing to use a primer between... If you add some extender to it, it really levels out and sort of looks like oil, but you must work quickly and keep the wet edge that I referred to above...
I've used both Floetrol and M11 as extenders. M11 is colorless and watery and will thin out the consistency of your paint as well as extend the dry time...Floetrol is translucent and syrupy which will extend the dry time without thinning the consistency of your paint...
One more thing...
The guy in the video says that mineral spirits is an extender for oil-based paint. This is completely wrong... Mineral spirits is a thinner/solvent for oil-based paint. If you want to extend the dry time of oil based paint, you need an oil-based extender such as Penetrol...
Jeez long srry..