Add-back Water to Established Reef Aq

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Probably a dumb question. But, I've never kept a reef aquarium before. But. . .

When you add back water (R/O or distilled) to replace evaporated water, how/where do you do this? Dump; trickle in; add to tank or water return? or ?
 
I have a float switch in my sump of my reef to continuosly replace evaporation. In my fish tank, i just add top off in the sump. Slowly is always best, an airline hose for a siphon into the tank is also a good way. I am certain some people just dump it in and are ok but I don't think it is ideal.
 
Probably a dumb question. But, I've never kept a reef aquarium before. But. . .

When you add back water (R/O or distilled) to replace evaporated water, how/where do you do this? Dump; trickle in; add to tank or water return? or ?
the short answer yes.

Long answer.. you can use an ATO device. you can gravity feed with a float valve.(what I do).... I would be careful "dripping" it in as you dont evaporate the same amount on a daily bases. Most put it in the sump return area to keep the display area "cleaner"
 
Do you have an automatic top off already?

If you have a sump and ato then you want to have the water go into the return chamber, this area will see a decrease in the amount of water the fastest.

If you have an all in one then same idea, fill the water with the ato into the return chamber.

if you don’t have an ato then filling by hand can work, I’d recommend filling into your return chamber also.
 
If you can stand the look of it :)
Not a bad idea. But how do you put water back into the container? Does it have to be disassembled? What's the ease of its use when replenishing the bottled water?

I should have made clear -- mine is a 40 gallon cube tank.
 
Do you have an automatic top off already?

If you have a sump and ato then you want to have the water go into the return chamber, this area will see a decrease in the amount of water the fastest.

If you have an all in one then same idea, fill the water with the ato into the return chamber.

if you don’t have an ato then filling by hand can work, I’d recommend filling into your return chamber also.
My bad for not posting a clearer thread starter. Mine is a 40 gallon 'preset' packaged system -- the Aquatop 40. I think the return chamber is a good idea.
 
Not a bad idea. But how do you put water back into the container? Does it have to be disassembled? What's the ease of its use when replenishing the bottled water?

I should have made clear -- mine is a 40 gallon cube tank.
I think it's just a soda bottle you unscrew and refill...

fwiw I've never used one but I think it's genius and if I wasn't given a tunze osmolator ato for free I probably would have rigged something like this up to my sump; so simple and cost effective.

For a gravity drip system like this I think you want to pick a chamber where the water level is constant (relative to evaporation) as any time it lowers water will come in from the bottle...just keep this in mind if/when implementing

Edit: Actually that doesnt make sense what I just said lol disregard :) return chamber for sure
 
If you can stand the look of it :)
my guess is you probably will have to fill it up a couple times a week at least... with the all AIO (all in One) style of aquarium you may want to consider a 5 gallon jug on the side filled with RODI, with an ATO a float valve setup would be hard to do in that tank.
 
my guess is you probably will have to fill it up a couple times a week at least... with the all AIO (all in One) style of aquarium you may want to consider a 5 gallon jug on the side filled with RODI, with an ATO a float valve setup would be hard to do in that tank.
I live in Las Vegas. If you're not aware -- it is super dry here. Our usual humidity is under 25% with 15% not being that unusual. I might have to fill that bottle once a day?
 
I live in Las Vegas. If you're not aware -- it is super dry here. Our usual humidity is under 25% with 15% not being that unusual. I might have to fill that bottle once a day?
Could be.. what is your evaporation rate now? make sure you hold your sal at 1.025 or pref 1.026..

Mark the tank where the water level is at now and see how far it goes down in a 24 hour period.. and then you can calculate the volume here...



use the "Filled Depth (f) =" value and enter the measurement that you made from the past water line (24 hours ago) to the current water line and that will give your evaporation rate for THAT day. Which in-turn can give you a rough estimate of how much you will go thru depending on all the other variables... like the weather.. running a temperature control in the house .. etc...

Hope that helps.
 
Could be.. what is your evaporation rate now? make sure you hold your sal at 1.025 or pref 1.026..

Mark the tank at see how far it goes down in a 24 hour period.. and then you can calculate the volume here...



use the "Filled Depth (f) =" value and enter the measurement that you made from the past water line (24 hours ago) to the current water line and that will give your evaporation rate for THAT day. Which in-turn can give you a rough estimate of how much you will go thru depending on all the other variables... like the weather.. running a temperature control in the house .. etc...

Hope that helps.
Thanks CR. I've marked my tank line last Sat. Not enough data so far to claim the amount to keep topped off.
 
Thanks CR. I've marked my tank line last Sat. Not enough data so far to claim the amount to keep topped off.
you dont want to have the sal vary.. your water level where the return pump is probably lower.. on a 65 gallon tank I would go thru 6 gals at least a week living in summers that could get but not as bad as yours.. and when we run the heater durring the winter it evaps more. That was not even with a fan blowing across the top to keep the take temp down when needed durring the summertime.
 
you dont want to have the sal vary.. your water level where the return pump is probably lower.. on a 65 gallon tank I would go thru 6 gals at least a week living in summers that could get but not as bad as yours.. and when we run the heater durring the winter it evaps more. That was not even with a fan blowing across the top to keep the take temp down when needed durring the summertime.
Check! Will do.
 
I have a 120G and when I first started I kept it simple. I put a piece of tape on my sump return chamber to mark the water level. Then when it got below the mark I would refill with RODI water. I’d let the water go down about 1/2” below the mark and then refill. Ended up being less than a gallon so I was always within 1% of total volume.

Then progressed to a Tunze ATO which is what I’m using now.

My point is that you can start super simple and then decide the best way for you to manage top offs
 
I have a 120G and when I first started I kept it simple. I put a piece of tape on my sump return chamber to mark the water level. Then when it got below the mark I would refill with RODI water. I’d let the water go down about 1/2” below the mark and then refill. Ended up being less than a gallon so I was always within 1% of total volume.

Then progressed to a Tunze ATO which is what I’m using now.

My point is that you can start super simple and then decide the best way for you to manage top offs
Great advice. The tape is something I hadn't thought. I tried marking the glass, but not so visible to these old eyes. Tape would be great!
 
Great advice. The tape is something I hadn't thought. I tried marking the glass, but not so visible to these old eyes. Tape would be great!
ATO is super cheap relative to the other items we can buy and not "need" for our tanks, I wouldn't personally run a reef tank without one. Temp & Salinity the two easiest to keep stable, but often the two that are overlooked. ATO helps to confirm your salinity level stays put :)
 
^^ I agree with @ilikefish69. Salinity has an affect on every other parameter; imo it is the number one thing to keep stable (and temp). Sounds like you're on it tho op as you've come here for some advice :)
 

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