Adding coral during diatom bloom

[Don_Jorge]

Is it really all that bad to add hardy coral to a new tank going through a diatom bloom? I have my uv running and use ro/di water so I imagine it would just fade instead of turning into hair algae. Tanks 2 months old nitrates are under 5 ppm and parameters have been stable a good while, phosphates very low as well. I really want some star polyps or possibly a frog spawn. And yes I have seen the cycle stage thread on here l.

 

[MohrReefs]

Is it really all that bad to add hardy coral to a new tank going through a diatom bloom? I have my uv running and use ro/di water so I imagine it would just fade instead of turning into hair algae. Tanks 2 months old nitrates are under 5 ppm and parameters have been stable a good while, phosphates very low as well. I really want some star polyps or possibly a frog spawn. And yes I have seen the cycle stage thread on here l.

Frogspawn probably won't survive in a tank that new. Just wait, that way you aren't settling for something just because it would survive . Wait 3 or 4 more months minimum. Its worth the wait, trust me.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Best is to hold off as diatoms are an indication that cycle is still in progress and not a good time to add any livestock. However, you can accelarate the diatom process by Reducing white light intensity, increasing water flow a little, siphoning lightly and adding the following snails:

Astrea
Trochus
nassarius
turbo
cerith
6-8 Blue leg hermits (the tiny ones)

Note that although tank will clean up quickly, dont let the appearance give you the go ahead to add coral and fish but rather, let test kits results determine that.

Temp 77-79
salinity 1.024-1.025
Ph 8.1-8.3
ammonia < .03
Nitrate < .04
Phosphate < .04

 

[PghReef]

As others have said the tank is still too new for many corals. Corals themselves add almost nothing to biological load, but the light and food requirements make the diatom, cyano, hair algae phases worse. Also if the algaes start to strangle the corals you end up in a tough spot, and manual removal isn't really feasible. Trust me on that, grows back almost overnight.

Also if you have coral and end up with algae issues, you're more limited on treatment options because of the corals.

 

[Sam816]

When we say a coral is hardy that means it can adapt to change in parameters/temp etc. Relatively easily. No coral can survive if smothered by diatoms/algae or even food.
You should add a couple of snails and a conch if you have thick substrate. Keep in mind that they will starve once the diatom is gone.
Also, diatoms feed on silicates which are primarily supplied by rocks and sand. So, this diatom phase will depend on type of water(rodi in your case) & how clean your rock/sand are. Did you cure your rock before putting it in the tank?

 

[Don_Jorge]

Frogspawn probably won't survive in a tank that new. Just wait, that way you aren't settling for something just because it would survive . Wait 3 or 4 more months minimum. Its worth the wait, trust me.

What exactly would kill it? If parameters are in check?

 

[Don_Jorge]

When we say a coral is hardy that means it can adapt to change in parameters/temp etc. Relatively easily. No coral can survive if smothered by diatoms/algae or even food.
You should add a couple of snails and a conch if you have thick substrate. Keep in mind that they will starve once the diatom is gone.
Also, diatoms feed on silicates which are primarily supplied by rocks and sand. So, this diatom phase will depend on type of water(rodi in your case) & how clean your rock/sand are. Did you cure your rock before putting it in the tank?

They were dry rock, so they didn't cause any spikes

 

[LegendaryCG]

What exactly would kill it? If parameters are in check?

It’s more about your experience. The tank parameters can shift rapidly in a young tank. That said I have kept acros in a one month tank. You need to know how to handle the situation. Starting with biologically active media gives you a major leg up,whether that’s some live rock, bottled bacteria, adding pods and phytoplankton, etc..

 

[vetteguy53081]

What exactly would kill it? If parameters are in check?

They have requirements such as : Calcium, magnesuim and Alkalinity for starters.
Changes called spikes in Ammonia, nitrate and phosphate will certainly upset a coral to the point of death.
Light and water flow requirements are essential and reputable lighting will be best.
Water changes do help, but do not stop changes in chemistry from occuring.

 

[Don_Jorge]

When we say a coral is hardy that means it can adapt to change in parameters/temp etc. Relatively easily. No coral can survive if smothered by diatoms/algae or even food.
You should add a couple of snails and a conch if you have thick substrate. Keep in mind that they will starve once the diatom is gone.
Also, diatoms feed on silicates which are primarily supplied by rocks and sand. So, this diatom phase will depend on type of water(rodi in your case) & how clean your rock/sand are. Did you cure your rock before putting it in the tank?

They were dry rock, so they didn't cause any

It’s more about your experience. The tank parameters can shift rapidly in a young tank. That said I have kept acros in a one month tank. You need to know how to handle the situation.

My Temps always the same I do weekly water changes so all calcium mag are always the same ph goes from 8.1 to 8.4 daily nitrates always low phosphates always low, what am I missing?

 

[Sam816]

They were dry rock, so they didn't cause any spikes

If it is man made dry rock then it will definitely have silicates but I hope I am wrong. If it's extracted from the sea then it will have some dead critters which will leach nitrates n phosphates in your tank. It is always a good idea to cure your rock for at least a month.

 

[hds4216]

Best is to hold off as diatoms are an indication that cycle is still in progress and not a good time to add any livestock. However, you can accelarate the diatom process by Reducing white light intensity, increasing water flow a little, siphoning lightly and adding the following snails:

Astrea
Trochus
nassarius
turbo
cerith
6-8 Blue leg hermits (the tiny ones)

Note that although tank will clean up quickly, dont let the appearance give you the go ahead to add coral and fish but rather, let test kits results determine that.

Temp 77-79
salinity 1.024-1.025
Ph 8.1-8.3
ammonia < .03
Nitrate < .04
Phosphate < .04

I disagree with nitrate needing to be <.04. I actually think it's better if there's some detectable nitrate. Around 3-5 is my goal.

 

[Don_Jorge]

Im just saying I test for everything but mag and its always stable, and yea man made rock so yes def silicates to get rid of.

 

[LegendaryCG]

Im just saying I test for everything but mag and its always stable, and yea man made rock so yes def silicates to get rid of.

People are just giving you good advice because you asked for it. Doesn’t mean you need to listen. If your confident then there’s not much reason they would just die but be prepared to address the problem.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I disagree with nitrate needing to be <.04. I actually think it's better if there's some detectable nitrate. Around 3-5 is my goal.

My tank #1 at .05:

tank #2 and new at .04 nitrate

 

[Don_Jorge]

People are just giving you good advice because you asked for it. Doesn’t mean you need to listen. If your confident then there’s not much reason they would just die but be prepared to address the problem.

I guess I was just looking for anything i hadn't thought of

 

[Don_Jorge]

My tank #1 at .05:

tank #2 and new at .04 nitrate

Beautiful display, Well done!

 

[LegendaryCG]

I guess I was just looking for anything i hadn't thought of

I’m a huge believer in microfauna myself. So that means bacteria, phyto, and pods, and macro algaes.

 

[Don_Jorge]

I’m a huge believer in microfauna myself. So that means bacteria, phyto, and pods, and macro algaes.

Im using cheeto and Def plan to seed the tank with pods once I get some coral that require feeding

 

[hds4216]

My tank #1 at .05:

tank #2 and new at .04 nitrate

I'm not saying it's a bad thing to have lower nitrate, just that it's not necessary for success.