Very good to hear and just a suggestion it would be better if you rented a PAR meter so you can really know how much par you getting.Thanks for all the responses. So, I ended up adding one strip of actinic blue reef brite xho about two weeks ago. Obviously too early to say if there are any significant improvements but there is definitely better color pop for all the corals. I turned my Kessils down to max out at 60% instead of 90% and I will slowly ramp back up depending on how corals respond. Anecdotally, some LPS - especially euphyllias - appear to have more extension. Definitely better fluorescence out of acros and montis. So far I’m really liking the effect, other than my janky DIY hanging solution.
Adding reef brite to Kessils?
- Thread starter ReeferPat
- Start date
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Shufflepig
Active Member
Yes. I have the second set you have pictured. I also put the reef brite in front of the Kessils and angled it towards the back of the tank. Works great.You mean like these? Im jist trying to put one in front of my kessils since im getting some shadowing on the front part of my tank
Dal-Reef
Well-Known Member
Thanks for all the responses. So, I ended up adding one strip of actinic blue reef brite xho about two weeks ago. Obviously too early to say if there are any significant improvements but there is definitely better color pop for all the corals. I turned my Kessils down to max out at 60% instead of 90% and I will slowly ramp back up depending on how corals respond. Anecdotally, some LPS - especially euphyllias - appear to have more extension. Definitely better fluorescence out of acros and montis. So far I’m really liking the effect, other than my janky DIY hanging solution.
Interesting the response by the corals. So are the ReefBrite are that much brighter needing to turn down the Kessil's? Hopefully someone with come with Hybrid mount for RifeBrite and Kessil
ReeferPat
Active Member
I actually did rent a meter a while back, unfortunately before I got the reef brites. I think I’ll do it again but for now I just figured I’d be better off being cautious.
ReeferPat
Active Member
I’m just starting off cautiously. BRS TV suggested surprisingly high PAR numbers with the XHOs. I do have a feeling the corals can eventually handle both maxed out but I’ll take my time getting there.
Meanwhile, the coral pop is subtle but definite. Looks really nice. And I don’t think I’m imagining a little more growth.
I currently have a single 24" XHO Blue mounted to an ATI. The XHO is about 10" off the water and is giving me an ~50 PAR increase at the bottom.
I changed the black mesh from 1/4" to 3/4". With the 3/4" mesh I'm now seeing a ~10% reduction in PAR from no top. The 1/4" mesh I was seeing double that (20%). With the 3/4" mesh I'm also not seeing a PUR reduction, which I saw with the 1/4" mesh (2-3%).
Another major change is that I changed from the GHL Mitras to a T5 ATI SunPower with Reef Brite XHO Actinic Blue.
I took readings at a 9" mounting height and obtained the following:
PAR with Reef Brite at 60%: 1/4" = 120-125, 3/4" = 140
PAR with Reef Brite at 70%: 1/4" = 135, 3/4" = 150
PAR with Reef Brite at 80%: 1/4" = 140-145, 3/4" = 158
PAR with Reef Brite at 90%: 1/4" = 150, 3/4" = 165
PAR with Reef Brite at 100%: 1/4" = 150-155, 3/4" = 165
With the Reef Brite at 60% the PAR reduction was 11-14%.
With the Reef Brite at 100% the PAR Reduction was 6-9%.
A couple of observations with the readings.
The readings were taken on the sand bed close to center.
- I was able to get a more stable PAR reading with the 3/4" mesh.
- The Reef Brite PAR did not really change from 90% to 100%. I'm controlling it with the Reef Brite Apex Dual Channel interface through my P4.
The 3/4" mesh is bird netting that I already had from a hardware store.
I would really like to see a more controlled test with clear vs black, different mesh sizes, various power settings and different meters.
The following screen shots are with:
Screen Top: Black Mesh 3/4"
Light: 24" ATI SunPower 4-Bulb (2x Blue Plus, Actinic, Coral Plus) with Reef Brite XHO Actinic Blue, ATI Fixture 12" off water and 11" off screen top
Tank: 24" (L) 18" (W) 18" (D)
At this height the Reef Brite at 100% is giving me ~50PAR.
Reef Brite at 70% Top On
Reef Brite at 70% Top Off
Reef Brite at 0% Top On
Reef Brite at 100% Top On
How do you angle it? Being that the mount looks like it stays flat on the tank rim? Im really thinking of getting reef brites idk if i should go with the lumilites or XHO since im just looming to cover the shadows instead of PAR im already getting 300 to 350 PAR on my upper rockwork.
Shufflepig
Active Member
Just put a small piece of plastic under the back of each foot to angle the light towards the back. If your PAR is already that high the lumilites would probably be all you need. I love the way the corals look in the evening when the Kessils are ramping down and the actinic blue takes over.
BackToTheReef
Valuable Member
LOL i saw this yesterday as well. Im using 4 Orphek V4 G2's + 3 Kessil A360X over my 300 Gallon reef. I think the trick with LED lights are spectrum. Which is why i think many aquarist see faster results when they combine LED's with legacy lighting technologies. I think between the wide spectrum of the Orpheks + the A360X....the results should be as good as legacy lighting tech or better... i hope, thats my theory and im sticking to it ROFL.
Curious what the dimensions of your tank are and your mounting height. Really like the appearance of the tank with that combo! Do you get much "shimmer?"
Sorry to slightly hi-jack the OPs post.
Looking at Kessil - ReefBrite combo myself but always open to alternative.
Shufflepig
Active Member
I did not purchase the Bluetooth controller. I just have it on a simple on/off timer. Have it on 9 hours. The Bluetooth controller can ramp the light up and down but it’s almost as much as the light itself.
Shufflepig
Active Member
I just used a digital timer that I bought at Home Depot. Plug the timer in, set it for when you want the light to come on and when you want the light to turn off, and plug the light into the timer. Very non-tech but works perfectly. And no worries on the questions, just hope the answers help.
Sdot
Valuable Member
Hey thanks, the Orpheks are mounted 14 inches above the water line where as the kessils are mounted 12 inches. I recently added the magnetic reflector for the two on the edges for additional punch...this does work. As far as shimmer you be the judge, but based on optics most people think i have metal halides installed.
Here is another link:
New video by S. Dot
photos.app.goo.gl
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BackToTheReef
Valuable Member
Hey thanks, the Orpheks are mounted 14 inches above the water line where as the kessils are mounted 12 inches. I recently added the magnetic reflector for the two on the edges for additional punch...this does work. As far as shimmer you be the judge, but based on optics most people think i have metal halides installed.
Here is another link:
New video by S. Dot
I love it but...
Now I am all confused!
MightyMO
"The Algae made me do it!!!"
You have a link???
BackToTheReef
Valuable Member
I had been set on Kessils with T5s, then it was Kessils and Reef Brite XHO b/c of the lengths available (looking at a 10' tank so need a 5' length) but I really like the way that combo of Orpheks and Kessils look. Also started poking around looking at the Kessil bars...I just need to make a decision and go with it.
minus9
5000 Club Member
Honestly, I think you'll be good either way. The Orphek OR3 bars now use the same diodes in the Atlantik v4, which are 5w, but the OR3 bars only run them at 3w, which gives them a longer life span and probably less heat. I'll most likely buy two OR3 blue plus bars to replace the one I have on front and mount the other on the back wall for complete coverage.
I think the combo of all led's using two different form factors is a great combo and probably one of the best ways of lighting a reef tank. Panels/bars combined with point source lights give you so much and when properly mounted/utilized will give you the spectrum, coverage and shimmer that we want.
Good luck!
