Advandced Polyp extension guidance (help)

[Lowefx]

I'm going nuts trying to figure out why this is happening. WD and OP polyps are extended very well. But a few millipora dont extend at all. I just sent another icp out, and will post my latest one from last month (adjustments were made). Please help me, I dont want my millie to die.

 

[Lowefx]

May 6th local test- DKH-8.7 PO4-0.08 Ca-480 Mg-1325 NO3-8 Temp-77 Ph- 7.9-8.06

ICP test

Since the ICP test, i have dosed a bunch of Brightwells Potassion and Strontion, and doesed Brightwells Lugol's solutions to raise Iodine. Could any of this effect one another?

PAR is sitting around 450-500

 

[homer1475]

polyp extension does not equal health FYI.

As long as they are colored up, and growing, don't sweat the polyp extension.

Do you have extension at night when the lights are off?

 

[Lowefx]

polyp extension does not equal health FYI.

As long as they are colored up, and growing, don't sweat the polyp extension.

Do you have extension at night when the lights are off?

No extension at night. I have not gotten much growth from these millies and ive had them over a year. Just a little encrusting but that is it. I have a pink lemonade also that is doing the same thing. Barely any color, no poylps and no growth.

 

[Sgolden]

Similarly, I will see some extensions, some not. Corals go through lots of phases. As long as color is good, seeing even small growth is good. I have some that don’t do much at all.

 

[bobby.w.hodges]

No extension at night. I have not gotten much growth from these millies and ive had them over a year. Just a little encrusting but that is it. I have a pink lemonade also that is doing the same thing. Barely any color, no poylps and no growth.

I had the save experience with my rommels rainbow, had no growth for many months with little polyp extension, I cut it off the rock and raised it in the tank, polyp extension has improved and its encrusting. Not sure if the growth was just stalled or if it needed more light. Said all that to say, try moving the milli.

 

[blasterman]

Since the ICP test, i have dosed a bunch of Brightwells Potassion and Strontion, and doesed Brightwells Lugol's solutions to raise Iodine.

None of which in my experience of anything to do with SPS health. Potassium should be handled with any decent salt mix, strontium has always been theoretical, and iodine might be beneficial for softies but I've never seen it do anything for SPS. Iodine might actually make the problem worse but promoting a diatom bloom.

If these are relatively new frags then they are acclimating. Given your nitrate levels are a bit higher than normal the frags are just acclimating to the higher nutrient level and likely came from a ULN tank. Since your other SPS are doing fine don't worry about it. Millie's, especially young ones can be like this.

 

[Macdaddynick1]

I might be seeing stuff, but take out one of these guys put them in a cup and use your Phone camera zoom to take a closeup video of it. Don’t bother looking at them with your eyes, especially in the tank. If you see tiny grey crustacean bugs, this might be your issue. I would also dip in bayer just in case. I do agree on the new frags like this PE might not be a big issue because they could be dormant for now, they will lay base and then start shooting off branches, but a good polyp extension is definitely an indication of optimal health. Lack of PE on a milli especially is usually an indication that something is wrong. Could also be flow, lack of light, irritation, etc.

 

[Lowefx]

I might be seeing stuff, but take out one of these guys put them in a cup and use your Phone camera zoom to take a closeup video of it. Don’t bother looking at them with your eyes, especially in the tank. If you see tiny grey crustacean bugs, this might be your issue. I would also dip in bayer just in case. I do agree on the new frags like this PE might not be a big issue because they could be dormant for now, they will lay base and then start shooting off branches, but a good polyp extension is definitely an indication of optimal health. Lack of PE on a milli especially is usually an indication that something is wrong. Could also be flow, lack of light, irritation, etc.

I understand everything you're saying. These are not new frags, over a year old. I believe flow is sufficient, and i posted PAR 450-500 (is that too much for mille?) I dont see any bugs, or what you circled. But im going to dip anyways just in case. I have bayre and revive.
Does anyone else have other feedback?

 

[watchguy123]

Can’t really hang your hat on polyp extension. Polyp extension is both pretty and an easy visual cue of apparent health. Some tanks have crazy polyp extension and others not so much. Heck your tank has some acros with beautiful extension and then these millies of yours don’t.

Since you have some very happy, healthy corals, I might presume your water (icp test) won’t show a likely culprit. Besides bad water which you are testing for, additional things to consider are fish nipping, pests, placement and probably more.

Some coral just can’t seemingly get comfortable. They either don’t grow, don’t color or slowly wither. My best guess for your millies is likely placement, flow and lighting. But there is no obvious “for sure” answer. Moving them seems easy enough but of course they might get less happy and die.

 

[Chaz D]

Have you ever tried lowering your alk to around 7.5?

 

[Joedubyk]

when was the last time you changed your ro membrane

 

[Joedubyk]

Can’t really hang your hat on polyp extension. Polyp extension is both pretty and an easy visual cue of apparent health. Some tanks have crazy polyp extension and others not so much. Heck your tank has some acros with beautiful extension and then these millies of yours don’t.

Since you have some very happy, healthy corals, I might presume your water (icp test) won’t show a likely culprit. Besides bad water which you are testing for, additional things to consider are fish nipping, pests, placement and probably more.

Some coral just can’t seemingly get comfortable. They either don’t grow, don’t color or slowly wither. My best guess for your millies is likely placement, flow and lighting. But there is no obvious “for sure” answer. Moving them seems easy enough but of course they might get less happy and die.

Almost all my acros that end up dying a loss of PE is a definite tell.

 

[Lowefx]

Almost all my acros that end up dying a loss of PE is a definite tell.

I agree with this statement. My membrane was changed a year ago. And I dont do waterchange too often. Only when icp is out of whack. And it's not too far off now.

 

[jda]

A hairy coral that all of a sudden has no PE is one thing, and should be watched. A coral that never has PE and still does not have it is something altogether different.

High quality lighting and NSW level inorganic parameters (alk, calcium and mag) and low, but detectable organic parameters (N and P) are your best bit. High alk, non-full spectrum light, high N and P might not cause corals to die, but also will not be ideal for all of them.

 

[jda]

Nothing is cheaper and more effective than changing some water. 200 gallons if IO for $38 bucks will work wonders in nearly all systems yet people would rather buy some supplements and spend more time rather than changing some water.

 

[Brian_68]

Any soft corals in the tank? I had a bunch of soft corals in a mixed reef I think were playing some warfare and possibly preventing my polyp extension. GAC did wonders and polyps returned but I only get extension at night as the fish seem to bother them during the day swimming too close. Won't find that on an ICP test.

 

[Lowefx]

A hairy coral that all of a sudden has no PE is one thing, and should be watched. A coral that never has PE and still does not have it is something altogether different.

High quality lighting and NSW level inorganic parameters (alk, calcium and mag) and low, but detectable organic parameters (N and P) are your best bit. High alk, non-full spectrum light, high N and P might not cause corals to die, but also will not be ideal for all of them.

It was very hairy when i got it over a year ago. My ATI 6 bulb fixture over my 120g works very well with 6 month old ATI bulbs and 2 reef bright strips.
Im trying to keep my parameters in check, as you can see in my tests.

Nothing is cheaper and more effective than changing some water. 200 gallons if IO for $38 bucks will work wonders in nearly all systems yet people would rather buy some supplements and spend more time rather than changing some water.

Yes, one could always do more WC. Sometimes LIFE gets in the way.

Any soft corals in the tank? I had a bunch of soft corals in a mixed reef I think were playing some warfare and possibly preventing my polyp extension. GAC did wonders and polyps returned but I only get extension at night as the fish seem to bother them during the day swimming too close. Won't find that on an ICP test.

I do have only a few, but they are no where near this mille

 

[Joedubyk]

I agree with this statement. My membrane was changed a year ago. And I dont do waterchange too often. Only when icp is out of whack. And it's not too far off now.

Thats your problem. 1 yr is WAY too long. and do some WC. watch your acros improve each time

 

[Joedubyk]

Nothing is cheaper and more effective than changing some water. 200 gallons if IO for $38 bucks will work wonders in nearly all systems yet people would rather buy some supplements and spend more time rather than changing some water.

Yeah, but he hasn't changed his membrane in a year, who knows about the other filters too. OTherwise, I'd totally agree. This always makes my tank better.