For the best structural integrity, you don't even need to cut the holes out, use the existing acrylic for extra reinforcement. Lay down a nice thick layer of the weld on then put a sheet over the entire area (a big square of acrylic, not just over the holes, you want the pressure to bypass the center crack. That means the sheet should be basically as big as the taped area.)
To clarify, when I say slight pressure, I am saying just enough to barely bow the plastic, almost set it on a piece of wood that is the size of the distance between the two holes and let the tank's weight be the pressure. Don't have the piece of wood be a giant thick piece, just put a very thin piece of wood under there, this will be a subtle approach.
Hopes my redneck .02 helps!
P.S. I would "score" a box around the two holes (about 1" from the edges of the hokes) with an acrylic cutter or the back of a razor on a utility knife. (as if you were going to try and break cut). That way if the crack decides to be an @$$hole then you have given it a path of least resistance and it won't crack all the way to the edge and cause a whole new set of issues. This is the same concept car manufacturers do with car frames so they crumple instead of just bend randomly in the event of a crash.