Advice on euphyllia

ainswokp

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Hi,

I have a 3 gallon pico with a Duncan, torch, octospawn, and some zoas and GSP. Tank has been running for about 3 months and had coral in it for almost 1.

1.026sg, 5 ppm nitrate, 0 Phosphate, 500 calcium 10 dKH, 0 ammonia, 8.1 pH.

The corals were given as a frag pack from a LFS I used to buy a lot of fish from, this is our first attempt at reefing. We have already put into motion an upgrade to a 30 gallon nuvo, tank arrives this week. I want to take the cycle slowly on the new tank and for that reason I’m asking for advice on the following.

Everything seems to be doing well and growing But the octo has been “browning” while the torch appears to be bleaching. I am using the kessil a80 tuna blue on an 8 hr cycle hitting 60% intensity at max. The octo is basically right under the light and the torch is about as low in the tank as it can go. Obviously this is a very small space (hence the upgrade) and so flexibility on changing positions is low.

when we received the octo it was nearly translucent and may very well have been bleached. I am wondering now if it is coloring up and this brown coloration is normal. It looks like this even under actinics. On the torch, it came brown with greenish tips, but not is nearly completely white. Seems to be bleaching. I feed them both reef roids about twice a week, and usually change 30% of the weather weekly. Everything stays stable except my salinity will move by a ppt because we don’t have an auto top off. I’m wondering if I just give up on the torch and return it to the LFS in hopes they can save it, or if I should ride it out. It is eating and it is opening all the way, only coloration is off (although presumably a decline could follow). Same with the octo - fully inflated during the day and seems to be growing.

For flow I went through a ton of pumps and finally settled on using a 110 gph with a spin stream and the stock 30 gph pump in the tank to ramp it up a bit and provide a random flow.

pictures of torch are before and after. Octo pic is just current “brownness.”

what’s annoying me about this is I am typically pointed in my planning and had only planned on putting GSP, zoas, and Xenia in this little guy, but naturally when someone gives you something you feel compelled to take it. Also gave me aiptasia which is a separate issue.

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I would trade the torch in for something you plan to keep in the tank. It's a beautiful specimen and will definitely recover quickly under the right conditions, I'm just not sure those are going to be easily attained in a 3g pico. If I had to venture a guess based on your post I would think it might be a lighting issue. Hard for me to say if it's too bright or too dim, but a PAR meter borrowed from the local club or LFS could help figure that out quickly.

If you have a friend or club member that would be willing to hang on to it for a while that might be a good option too until your new setup is complete. It's totally possible to keep these guys in a pico tank, but I don't know if chasing down the problem is really worth your time and energy given that you weren't even trying to keep these in here originally.
 
I did make an attempt on the PAR issue. Because it's bleaching, my initial reaction was the lights are too intense. However, they were under a T5-LED hybrid at the LFS, and everything I am reading about the Tuna Blue is that it's not powerful enough. I have seen a couple videos on YT where a 170 PAR reading was taken at max intensity at the surface. I would think that if anything my lights are too low, but, again, seems counter intuitive to crank them if its bleaching.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
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