Advice on T5 lighting

So funny they said that. As someone who has installed thousands of fluorescent fixtures and replace untold bulbs in my 40 years as an electrical maintenance man. They are using consumers ignorance to hide basic electrical facts. When you have a florescent tube running below their striking voltage the bulb will burn out way faster. I have this problem in areas of high vibration due to equipment and large motors.
You don't think the 3 day burn in would make a difference?
 
So funny they said that. As someone who has installed thousands of fluorescent fixtures and replace untold bulbs in my 40 years as an electrical maintenance man. They are using consumers ignorance to hide basic electrical facts. When you have a florescent tube running below their striking voltage the bulb will burn out way faster. I have this problem in areas of high vibration due to equipment and large motors.
I spoke to the owner of ATI here about it too. You and I have changed more tubes than most, and yea, I agree with you. AND im greedy. I paid bank for that tube I want every photon I can get out of it. no way im dimming that sucker.
 
I've never ran a dim-able T5 setup.
Always felt the same way as "saltyfilmfolks" on his last post.
I did mod in led's into my RSM s-400 (mid - Section) for a gentle ramp up and down effect for "ME" but in no way is it beneficial for coral health.
 
No it's how the cathode and anode of a fluorescent tube works. There is a "burn in" but that is more about a bulb burning "hot" then after the constant voltage across the cathode and anode "burns" down their tips you will achieve a constant voltage across the tube.
It's like a light bulb every time you turn the bulb off and on you lessen its life span. This is due to voltage change and cooling of the filament of the bulb. This occurs in all light what ever its type led T5 and Mh it is the nature of the beast
 
I'm going full swap from LED to T5, I don't have a good way to mount both over the tank.

The LED's have been running like this for ~3months. I'm trying to avoid a shock with going to the T5's which will have higher PAR.

I don't have a target PAR really, my biggest issue right now is shadowing.
and sorry, apparently I couldn't read yesterday. splitting headache.
decide on peak photo period. acclimate to that slowly. watch the coral and the nutrints.
is one of the things I do love about led is the ramp, as your not contributing much in the early stages of the ramp. depending on the configuration of the fixture you may be able to replicate that.
I've never ran a dim-able T5 setup.
Always felt the same way as "saltyfilmfolks" on his last post.
I did mod in led's into my RSM s-400 (mid - Section) for a gentle ramp up and down effect for "ME" but in no way is it beneficial for coral health.
because ME is quite important too. I do like to see the tank in the morning and late at night.
 
It's like a light bulb every time you turn the bulb off and on you lessen its life span. This is due to voltage change and cooling of the filament of the bulb. This occurs in all light what ever its type led T5 and Mh it is the nature of the beast
its why Ive found 40 year old tubes still burning in old buildings. they have never been turned off.
 
I'm not sure why the company would tell me that. Personally I don't care about changing bulbs more often. I have twice the fixture that I need,and if I didn't dim it it would cook the corals. On my frag tank I run the t5's 10 hours a day. Bulbs Replaced February 1st, and was expecting to change them around the end of summer. They are still showing very little drop in par and the corals are doing great. I'm not changing them until something tells me I need to. As for the other dimable fixture, if I have to keep increasing intensity to hit the numbers and end up replacing bulbs every 6 months, so be it. I can buy a heck of a lot of bulbs for what I would have paid for leds.
 
I recently scored a used 6x39 TEK Elite T5 fixture. When the light comes in, the one upgrade I do intend to perform on the fixture to improve performance is to swap out the Fulham Workhorse ballasts, which are rapid start to Philips Centium Advance ballasts, which are programmed start, as well as re-wire the endcaps to accommodate the new ballasts.
 
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Day 1
DSC_1297.jpg


It's definitely much bluer than I was running on the Primes, but I like the look. My fish were not happy that the lights didn't come on until later today.
 
Day 1
DSC_1297.jpg


It's definitely much bluer than I was running on the Primes, but I like the look. My fish were not happy that the lights didn't come on until later today.
dragon99, Looking good and that BTA will love the T5.
 
I have found that it varies. You can not set hard fast rules for light replacement as each bulb is different it how it burns. I has seen T5 lights last 2 years and others last 4 months.
Always good to check your Par every 6 months to see how your lights are running. Using the human eye is terrible our eyes are totally useless for checking lighting levels. I have to test lights in our color metric checker for food color monthly. [emoji3]
 
I have found that it varies. You can not set hard fast rules for light replacement as each bulb is different it how it burns. I has seen T5 lights last 2 years and others last 4 months.
Always good to check your Par every 6 months to see how your lights are running. Using the human eye is terrible our eyes are totally useless for checking lighting levels. I have to test lights in our color metric checker for food color monthly. [emoji3]
To be on the safe side I put new t5's in every 6 to 7 months. Maybe over kill but I don't have a par meter and I'm willing to spend the money.
 

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