please tank pics. that tank would appraise for about twenty grand lol including time spent, artistic guiding of that look, maybe even more so that's a very high value system and others want to be able to pattern your work to save theirs.
take pics of it all, good phone pics and update here pls pls so I can then link this to the official tank transfer thread.
if you simply reduce white light levels in the new tank and keep decent blues, ramping them slowly back to ideal levels, and up the feed and water changes/work loading for export/more than you normally do for two weeks this transfer will not recycle and you won't bleach corals.
(an aged reef like that as it sits now is on cruise control, don't cruise control the new setup for two weeks be feeding and doing water changes to guide out slimes, irritants, and the boosted feed you gave)
the maximum old water I'd move over is about half.
as you drain down and catch the good half in brutes to hold, notice about last 1/2 or 1/3'rd its clouding as receding water levels and new motion starts to dislodge detritus from its catchpoints, throw out that water.
have the new tank 1000% cleaned and set up with half or 2/3rds new and heated water matching temp and salinity a couple days in motion all seated in nicely. Though this is a big job its really just the work equivalent of upgrading 300 pico reefs all at once lol and this biology scales up down and sideways wonderfully. biologically this will be a terribly easy tank transfer, physical work youll burn a hundred thousand calories and six to ten hours getting it all set lol.
if you add any sand to the new tank at all this is the firm rule, no room to customize for safety:
pre rinse all of it in tap water as long as it takes to be 100% clear. final rinse in ro, use the sand, cloudless.
specifically do not skip this step thinking you need its bacteria, you do not. you need cloudless because the #1 physical sign of a crashing upgraded tank is clouding that originates from the system vs sand silt.
if sand silt is harmlessly clouding you for nine days before it settles, ie unrinsed sand, its blocking our core safety assessment visuals in the new tank.
additional trick: unless you own seneye this is a *testless* tank transfer
you would not transfer the tank, run api ammonia to assess a cycle (or red sea) and then make reactive dosing into the water to offset the for-sure .5 you'll see that causes alarm. clouding is all you need to manage and prevent
I've seen a thousand tanks get chemically souped on recycle fears from cheap test kits, don't use them. testless tank transfer is best we have been at this for seventh year now below
If you are reading this thread to cure a tank invasion from a link I sent you, we do not need to identify your type of invasion here we do not need you to test anything at anytime regarding nitrate, phosphate etc Above all, we do not need to see a microscope slide picture of your invasion at...
www.reef2reef.com
that whole thread is testless cloudless tank transfers and or sandbed rips. if anyone posted an api reading there showing .25 I'd be angry for the introduction of doubt and the failure to report it as .025 lol/ nh3 vs nh4/just omit it all.
only seneye can be trusted to reveal your nh3 in the new tank but I'll never pay to own one, we can 100% predict what your nh3 range will be if you move cloudlessly. seneye is for doubters or bacteria studying like the various rip clean tests happening in the chem forum presently
