Aerating nitrifying bacteria on a sponge in a quarantine tank

Swingline77 · Sep 2, 2018

A tried-and-true way to to keep the bacteria alive on a sponge has been to put the sponge in a HOB filter. I'd rather not put a HOB filter on the quarantine tank, and am trying to figure out the best way to keep the bacteria happy.

Someone on youtube posted a vid in which a PVC pipe (with several holes drilled in it) is inserted vertically from top to bottom into a stack of sponges. He then has an airline running into the pipe from the top. The air line terminates just short of the end of the PVC. The idea is that as the air is released from the line, it rises through the pipe, drawing in water with it. The water and air mixture is then dispersed into the sponges.

This seems like a fine way to do things, but I wonder if there are alternatives. We tend not to use bubblers in reef tanks, so why use them in quarantine tanks? What if I simply had some sponges mounted in the tank near the surface with a powerhead blowing water on them? The water would hit the sponges directly, and also flush around the tank pretty well. I'd guess that there would be some pretty good aeration.

Another option would be to forego the PVC pipe, but still use a bubbler. I could mount the sponge somewhere, put an airstone in it (fed by an air line) and also have a powerhead blowing on it.

Would either of these other options work?

Brew12 · Sep 2, 2018

Swingline77 said:
A tried-and-true way to to keep the bacteria alive on a sponge has been to put the sponge in a HOB filter. I'd rather not put a HOB filter on the quarantine tank, and am trying to figure out the best way to keep the bacteria happy.

Someone on youtube posted a vid in which a PVC pipe (with several holes drilled in it) is inserted vertically from top to bottom into a stack of sponges. He then has an airline running into the pipe from the top. The air line terminates just short of the end of the PVC. The idea is that as the air is released from the line, it rises through the pipe, drawing in water with it. The water and air mixture is then dispersed into the sponges.

This seems like a fine way to do things, but I wonder if there are alternatives. We tend not to use bubblers in reef tanks, so why use them in quarantine tanks? What if I simply had some sponges mounted in the tank near the surface with a powerhead blowing water on them? The water would hit the sponges directly, and also flush around the tank pretty well. I'd guess that there would be some pretty good aeration.

Another option would be to forego the PVC pipe, but still use a bubbler. I could mount the sponge somewhere, put an airstone in it (fed by an air line) and also have a powerhead blowing on it.

Would either of these other options work?

The nitrifying bacteria don't need the air flow. They only need water flow. As long as you come up with a method to get water flowing through the sponge and not around it, you should have no issues.

WVNed · Sep 2, 2018

The air rising in the tube is what moves the water through the sponge

Instigate · Sep 3, 2018

I have used a water bottle with the bottom cut off. Stuff it with sponge then fit the drinking side onto the inlet of the powerhead. It just so happens that the Kirkland water bottles perfectly fit onto the sunsun powerheads.

Swingline77 · Sep 3, 2018

Got it. thanks.

Swingline77 · Sep 3, 2018

After reading about quarantine tanks, they seem pretty simple. It seems that unless something is photosynthetic, no special lighting is needed. It's also my understanding that only NO2, NO3, and NO4 are tested for (as well as medication levels, if this is an issue). Is this right? There is no skimmer, macro algae, or testing for other water parameters. There is no kalkwasser drip, 2-part dosing, etc. Only food, air, sponge bacteria, a hiding spot for fish (if appropriate), and temperature are tested for. pH isn't even an issue. No parameter testing is needed since water changes will be very frequent. So, please let me know if my understanding is flawed. Finally, how often should water be changed? I've heard 1 gal/day on a 10 gal tank. Does this seem right?

Thanks.

Brew12 · Sep 4, 2018

Swingline77 said:
It's also my understanding that only NO2, NO3, and NO4

In my opinion, the only testing that absolutely needs to be done is NH3/NH4 (ammonia). You can test for NO2 and NO3 but I normally don't bother. The ammonia test is best done with a Seachem badge if you are going to be treating with copper or other meds.

Swingline77 said:
Finally, how often should water be changed?

I've done a 30 day QT with no water changes. Your ammonia levels normally dictate how much water to change. My preferred method is to do 4 days acclimation followed by 10 days in copper. Then I transfer to a clean tank (effectively 100% water change) followed by another 14 days of observation. I will rarely need to do any other water changes. With meds in the water, I try to do as little in the way of water changes as possible since keeping the dosing correct is a challenge.