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Angel_V_the_reefer

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Hey guys, hope all is good ! So I’m about to finish setting up my reef tank and I was wondering what are your guys thoughts on my schedule. I have the whites pretty up high because I seem to get some bad headaches with the heavy blues. Is that just me? Not sure how the whites will affect the coloration on my corals. I mainly want to keep LPS and Zoas. I would really appreciate the advice !
9055D12D-C5C7-437D-8FF3-296EBB898FF1.png
My light is mounted 8 inches above the tank.
 
The white won't harm anything :)

White is more or less for our visual pleasure. The blue/purple colors are for corals. Of course this isn't to say that corals won't use light from the white channel or that you can raise it as quickly as you want, but there is nothing wrong with your settings.

I would raise the height from the surface to 10-13 inches if possible. You will get better spread and you can raise the intensity up too.
 
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The white won't harm anything :)

White is more or less for our visual pleasure. The blue/purple colors are for corals. Of course this isn't to say that corals won't use light from the white channel or that you can raise it as quickly as you want, but there is nothing wrong with your settings.

I would raise the height from the surface to 10-13 inches if possible. You will get better spread and you can raise the intensity up too.
Okay yeah I’ll give that video a look haha, I’ve been watching videos but somehow haven’t watched this episode of BRS . And yeah it’s not that it’s not pleasurable, I do like the blue lights but more than anything I get headaches from the bluer lights. I’m not sure why though. Granted I don’t have water in yet, I’m just waiting on live sand and to connect my RODI system and I’ll be cycling soon, maybe once the water is added the blue lights won’t be as bad? We will see but Thank you!
 
The white won't harm anything :)

White is more or less for our visual pleasure. The blue/purple colors are for corals. Of course this isn't to say that corals won't use light from the white channel or that you can raise it as quickly as you want, but there is nothing wrong with your settings.

I would raise the height from the surface to 10-13 inches if possible. You will get better spread and you can raise the intensity up too.
Also does the coloration stay the same on the coral regardless of how much white light I add? I know the colors look less fluorescent but does it only change on the light setting or does the color fade with more whites? Granted of course I’m feeding the corals and maintaining stable parameters.
 
Also does the coloration stay the same on the coral regardless of how much white light I add? I know the colors look less fluorescent but does it only change on the light setting or does the color fade with more whites? Granted of course I’m feeding the corals and maintaining stable parameters.
Corals, under different lighting conditions, will change their coloration. However, they are not going to become more pale except that you may see less of that "glow." I would not worry about dramatic color changes though as that is not going to happen unless the coral bleached or browned from high phosphate.
 
Okay yeah I’ll give that video a look haha, I’ve been watching videos but somehow haven’t watched this episode of BRS . And yeah it’s not that it’s not pleasurable, I do like the blue lights but more than anything I get headaches from the bluer lights. I’m not sure why though. Granted I don’t have water in yet, I’m just waiting on live sand and to connect my RODI system and I’ll be cycling soon, maybe once the water is added the blue lights won’t be as bad? We will see but Thank you!


It will probably look different once the water is dispersing the color and what not. I would keep the lights off while cycling (and have them at a minemum if at all needed when you get the first fish).
 
It will probably look different once the water is dispersing the color and what not. I would keep the lights off while cycling (and have them at a minemum if at all needed when you get the first fish).
Mhm I don’t keep the lights on unless I have fish in there then I put the light on minimum intensity. I really appreciate the help! One last question if you don’t mind me asking. So I got most of my reefing knowledge down however, how severe had you experienced the ‘ugly phase’ in your tank? I’m experienced with freshwater tanks and I was wondering if it would impact coral health? I ask because I’m planning on getting this cycled next month , however there’s a frag swap here in Houston I hope I can attend this April where I plan on buying a few lps.
 
Mhm I don’t keep the lights on unless I have fish in there then I put the light on minimum intensity. I really appreciate the help! One last question if you don’t mind me asking. So I got most of my reefing knowledge down however, how severe had you experienced the ‘ugly phase’ in your tank? I’m experienced with freshwater tanks and I was wondering if it would impact coral health? I ask because I’m planning on getting this cycled next month , however there’s a frag swap here in Houston I hope I can attend this April where I plan on buying a few lps.

I think there are ways to minemize the ugly phase. Mine was only a few tufts of hair algae but never anything really bad. There are a couple of products which might help minimize the ugly phase. PNS Probio, Dr Tim's waste away and/or wasteaway gels, Dr Tim's eco balance, reef brite live rock enhance, etc.. You can add any of these after you add your first fish. Basically they all act as competition to algae. When a tank is new and has dry rock and such, all of the microorganisms and algaes go to battle over the new space. These essentially give the algae a harder time to establish. You just want to make sure that after you add them that you never hit 0 nitrate and 0 phosphate (they can go to town on waste and such so its best to add them slowly).


The ugly phase won't bother corals unless they get smothered.

Other than those additives, the only other thing I would recommend is to get a decent phosphate test such as the hanna phosphorus ULR or phostphate ULR.
 
I think there are ways to minemize the ugly phase. Mine was only a few tufts of hair algae but never anything really bad. There are a couple of products which might help minimize the ugly phase. PNS Probio, Dr Tim's waste away and/or wasteaway gels, Dr Tim's eco balance, reef brite live rock enhance, etc.. You can add any of these after you add your first fish. Basically they all act as competition to algae. When a tank is new and has dry rock and such, all of the microorganisms and algaes go to battle over the new space. These essentially give the algae a harder time to establish. You just want to make sure that after you add them that you never hit 0 nitrate and 0 phosphate (they can go to town on waste and such so its best to add them slowly).


The ugly phase won't bother corals unless they get smothered.

Other than those additives, the only other thing I would recommend is to get a decent phosphate test such as the hanna phosphorus ULR or phostphate ULR.
Yeah I don’t plan on getting corals until April but as of right now I only have a salifert test kit (from my experience some test kits are better than others when it comes to salifert). Also I decided that when the time comes I’m just going to rent a par meter and adjust the light that way. I also ramped down the whites on my light and added a diy visor on it , turns out the light spill is what really gives me the headaches I get, other than that it’s only minor but a good old lamp also rids the room of the blue colors. Thank you for the advice brother!
 
I think there are ways to minemize the ugly phase. Mine was only a few tufts of hair algae but never anything really bad. There are a couple of products which might help minimize the ugly phase. PNS Probio, Dr Tim's waste away and/or wasteaway gels, Dr Tim's eco balance, reef brite live rock enhance, etc.. You can add any of these after you add your first fish. Basically they all act as competition to algae. When a tank is new and has dry rock and such, all of the microorganisms and algaes go to battle over the new space. These essentially give the algae a harder time to establish. You just want to make sure that after you add them that you never hit 0 nitrate and 0 phosphate (they can go to town on waste and such so its best to add them slowly).


The ugly phase won't bother corals unless they get smothered.

Other than those additives, the only other thing I would recommend is to get a decent phosphate test such as the hanna phosphorus ULR or phostphate ULR.
Also, have you ever had a frag tank. I plan that if all goes well with my tank , and once I get a variety of corals species, I want to get a small frag tank. I would want it primarily for trading and getting store credit to keep cost low on the tank as we all know how expensive this hobby is, haha especially since I’m soon off to community college (textbooks can be pricey)
 
Also, have you ever had a frag tank. I plan that if all goes well with my tank , and once I get a variety of corals species, I want to get a small frag tank. I would want it primarily for trading and getting store credit to keep cost low on the tank as we all know how expensive this hobby is, haha especially since I’m soon off to community college (textbooks can be pricey)

I don't have a frag tank but work them them at my lfs (I work part time there)
 
Actually, most of our stuff comes from local grow out tanks. People who trade in large amounts get in store credit that can apply to wholesale prices on dry goods
Actually, most of our stuff comes from local grow out tanks. People who trade in large amounts get in store credit that can apply to wholesale prices on dry goods.
thats actually still very good, saves up money on the long run! I live in Houston Texas and there’s a few stores near me that are opening up which raises that question haha. I’ll probably look into joking a club so I can trade corals in the future to save costs haha. Thank you!
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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