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see the potential with the 16hd's !!!!!! 
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see the potential with the 16hd's !!!!!! 
Thanks, I will look into getting a new lens. Perhaps mine is melting due to higher overall temp from having the diffuser (?). I'm still wondering if the lens is necessary if you have a diffuser or if the diffuser is doing twice the work--in which case I'd just ditch the lens.I have extra lens for my 16hds. They are about $5. Have only replaced one on a used unit I bought.
I run 8 on different systems, 4 tanks and have no issues with any lens melting so far. Its almost 9 months now running a strong acro light schedule.
Uv V 140%
B RB 125%
R 6%
G 6%
W 30%.
I run 2 on an 20g 18" nano cube.
I would get your lights up to
100% UV V B RB
R <10%
G<10%
W 30% to what you like.
I get great colors at my settings.
My cube today.
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Thanks, I will look into getting a new lens. Perhaps mine is melting due to higher overall temp from having the diffuser (?). I'm still wondering if the lens is necessary if you have a diffuser or if the diffuser is doing twice the work--in which case I'd just ditch the lens.
I'm not running any acros or any plans to do so, so might not need settings that high. I will try to get a par meter sometime in the future to run tests.
Thanks!
That was a great reply, and exactly the info I was hoping for. Interesting that there's salt on the puck/lens, since it should be somewhat protected by the diffuser!The lens melting issue was studied extensively over the course of a year on the AI Prime/Hydra group on facebook. There are posts showing the data all pointing to salt creep / splash on the lenses degrading the PMMA lens as the salt residue begins to heat then exponentially break down the material. This is also in line with a statement from AI. You can actually see some salt on the bottom of your light in the close ups but regardless yours does not seem too bad.
The diffusers have been tested for any heat build up and are vented in the back, a small gap by the power cord, and also through the diffuser sheets themselves to have an intake and exhaust for air flow. I know because I created and tested them. Also, the Prime 16HD has a variable speed cooling fan and programmed to increase cooling as the light temperature rises. I advise not to remove the lens and only run the diffuser because the lens is actually what keeps pressure on the puck to the heatsink, so careful.
The clam may have died for a number of reasons including inhabitants picking at it, not enough par, or water chemistry just to name a few. I highly doubt it is due to the spec on the lens and compared to others I have seen, yours actually look to be in good shape. My suggestions would be
1. Send in an ICP test. Its the best testing method if you are serious about your corals and not too costly considering the insight you will gain.
2. Buy, rent, or borrow a par meter. From my understanding and my last maxima clam, it loved 200 par.
3. When the light is off and cool, clean the bottom and lens making sure it is spotless. Re-install the diffuser and make sure their are no micro bubbles releasing into your tank.
Also glad to hear everything else is doing well and growing fast. Never make any drastic changes for one coral not doing well until you know for certain as said before it could have just been an inhabitant causing chaos. Keep and eye on the tank and good luck!

