AI Prime is killing my tank

[simplyreefing]

Hi reefers

i have a simple nano 65lt ocean free with fluval 7 and a nano up. I was using the system light which I think is aqua zonic. The kit state ‘Super bright LED clamping lightFull colour spectrum rendering Daylight/Moonlight settings: 26.16W( 3w x 4 14000k LED, 4 x 1.5w 12000k LED’

it was ok I had a hammer, two trachy a frogspawn and a nice orange acan surviving but no growth. One acan shrunk. I did however have a lot of algae growth so as we do I upgraded to the majority vote AIPrime.

siince then all my troubles started; algae growth was almost eliminated and my cc died. the corals pulled in and my spawn and hammer closed. So I dropped the intensity. Then the red algae came. adjusted for more blue less white. Regression continues adjusted again and the trachy bleached and the acans retracted and are getting smaller each day . As I lost stock the red algae proliferated ……

I have used most settings offered on line but am stumped as I thought the change in light would trigger benefit but could use advice to turn this around thanks.

paramiters are good. Not always perfect but stable enough. Weekly 15% wc. Quality salt and ro water. fish are fine.

 

[mwil79]

That is a powerful light for a small tank so you probably should take it slow. There is a major adjustment period for corals to get used to new and more powerful lighting. The clean up crew I can't really say had anything to do with the light unless it was just pure shock due to overpowering. Can you post your schedule and also when you say parameters are good can you specify?

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

Thats about 17 gallons, I have the AI16 prime on my 15 gallon set at 75% which has RFA's and soft corals, everything is fine and growing in my tank.

I dont think your light is too strong for your tank, but if you had a major upgrade in the lighting, your corals might need some time to acclimate. Just lower the light intensity and increase slowly.

 

[James5214]

I have a 20L with a ai I use the David zarbys setting from the signature series I put my corals in and let them acclimate it takes a while and the more you move them the more they will get mad and have to re start the acclimation period over again. I just beat cyano it was killing some of my corals. Try lowering your phosphate if that is a bit high and if that doesn't work as it didn't for me. I got red slime remover from my LFS and turned off skimmer and within a few days it was totally gone and I haven't seen it since. Hope it all works out for you.

 

[spsick]

Post your parameters and let’s dive in to the details of your system more. Lights don’t just kill tanks and livestock.

What intensity are you running the light?

What are your parameters you test and how ofte?

What do you have for RO water and when we’re the filters last changed?

 

[mckinney0171]

Prime is a very strong light. I run mine at about 40% wattage over my Fluval Evo. It will burn corals if you run too high.

 

[Bpb]

A few questions.

How old is your tank?

Where did you source your rock/sand, and how did you go about cycling the tank?

Those two items are more important than arbitrary light settings. There are people who run only the blue channels, and those who max out everything, all having great results.

That being said…a lighting change, especially on a tank that may already be stressed is a major major change and if not done with the utmost care, it can indeed nuke the tank.

If you are able to carefully read your tank, and understand your lighting very well, you can change lighting brands or even platforms nearly at will. That is an expert level task though.

You didn’t mention par numbers so I take it they were not measured. Which is fine.

Ultimately, pick a color layout you like, at a brightness level you like, and then run that at like half strength for a while until you start seeing things look happy again, Then increase by 1% strength every day or two until you reach your goal or until you start seeing issues again (that you can be sure are light related).

Corals are remarkably adaptable and if given sufficient time can adjust to ridiculously high light levels, but this is provided everything else is ideal. Unfortunately, loading up with sterile dry rock and sand, tossing in some bottled bacteria, and registering appropriate calcium, alkalinity, nitrate, and phosphate do not tell the whole story of a tank’s overall health and happiness.

I suspect adding a small amount of ocean rock and/or sand from kp aquatics or Tampa bay saltwater would make things right as rain inside of a month or so. Regardless of what’s going on with your lighting. I am of the firm belief that what many people assume an issue with lighting or nutrients is actually unhappiness with the microbial content of the water….or at the very least exacerbated by it

 

[simplyreefing]

Thanks for the input. I’ll get some details for further exploration.

the tank is one year old and I’m a novice so the microbiology thing is above my pay grade at this time.

be back soon

 

[simplyreefing]

Hi

so parinters we’re measured before water change and show high nitrate around <20.

post water change they were still high around 5 But <10 is the safer call.

Salinity is bang on .26 and temp is a steady 26c . Ph and alkalinity good. Ammonia 0.

Post water change

Current lighting setting straight forward while I figure it out.

the tank and it’s sorry inhabitants remaining

dwarf angle bicolour and yellow tail damsel.

 

[mwil79]

Just as an FYI for those Red Sea tests you are supposed to put the vial over the white circle otherwise you won't get an accurate reading. I would maybe try and lower your lighting or even just put it in acclimation mode as that seems fairly bright for a small tank. You can absolutely keep it that high but I would acclimate it slowly over the course of a month period. There is a function within the AI app to do this automatically.

 

[EagleEye121]

Just as an FYI for those Red Sea tests you are supposed to put the vial over the white circle otherwise you won't get an accurate reading.

There are two circles on either side on the RS tests, he did it correctly.

 

[Orito]

you have bicolor angel, this fish isn't reef safe, are you sure it isn't eating your corals?

 

[mwil79]

There are two circles on either side on the RS tests, he did it correctly.

Ahh ok I haven't used the RedSea ones so I just assumed a single side. Doesn't look to be much higher than 5-10ppm though.

I run my tanks at about 25-30ppm with a lot of SPS so I wouldn't worry too much about the nitrates at the moment. Do you have any export other than water changes?

 

[simplyreefing]

you have bicolor angel, this fish isn't reef safe, are you sure it isn't eating your corals?

That’s a good point. I didn’t think about that. With the reduction in grazing algae she might be using them as supplementary feedlots.

I haven’t seen excessive nipping as yes, she did always do it, but everything was balanced and strong.

doesn't help with my star and snails but it is a good explanation for the corals Maybe. I might move her to the quarantine tank and see if it improves.

Any lighting suggestions would be appreciated given the tank size depth and rockwork

 

[Orito]

That’s a good point. I didn’t think about that. With the reduction in grazing algae she might be using them as supplementary feedlots.

I haven’t seen excessive nipping as yes, she did always do it, but everything was balanced and strong.

doesn't help with my star and snails but it is a good explanation for the corals Maybe. I might move her to the quarantine tank and see if it improves.

Any lighting suggestions would be appreciated given the tank size depth and rockwork

Without a par meter it's all guessing

 

[HudsonReefer2.0]

you have bicolor angel, this fish isn't reef safe, are you sure it isn't eating your corals?

And why in a tank this size???

 

[HudsonReefer2.0]

U need a baseline from the old lights and then match it. Without a par meter although u have light ur working in the dark. Slowly increase over time like others said.

 

[simplyreefing]

And why in a tank this size???

Why not. The tanks big enough. Angie is happy healthy and has plenty of rockwork to in around under and through. The tank is hers and being stress and disease free for 11 months I’ve had her, she Is an absolute delight.

Thanks everyone I’ll work on the lighting and keeping Angie out in the QT to see any change. I am thinking the idea of matching the old light and slowly adjusting is a good plan too.

 

[gbroadbridge]

Why not. The tanks big enough. Angie is happy healthy and has plenty of rockwork to in around under and through. The tank is hers and being stress and disease free for 11 months I’ve had her, she Is an absolute delight.

Thanks everyone I’ll work on the lighting and keeping Angie out in the QT to see any change. I am thinking the idea of matching the old light and slowly adjusting is a good plan too.

If you want to match the brightness of the old light you need to borrow a PAR meter.

You simply cannot tell /match PAR or PUR by eye.

 

[Eienna]

Don't know if anyone mentioned this - not sure I want to read the entire thread - but when you increase lighting intensity, you may also need to increase the flow so the corals can shed the toxic byproducts of likewise increased photosynthesis. It's quite likely that's what's happening here. When a coral closes up like that, it is often trying not to photosynthesize because it's getting blasted with no way to get rid of enough of the byproducts.