Algae and phosphate issue

skipb1956

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I'm having trouble getting my phosphate level down. I use the API drop test and for months reads 25. I put ROWA in my canister filter and it hasn't helped. I'm trying vodka dosing and that doesn't seem to help either. I'm pretty sure I am not over feeding. As a result I'm getting lots of hair ans some bubble algae growing alot on my rock and some coral frags.
Any suggestions? All my other water parameters are good. I am thinking of getting anMP10 wave maker to help my flow in the tank to replace the 3 power heads I have.
 
in the majority, not minority of cases, the HA isn't related to bad nutrients, says all the tanks with fine nutrients before, not during an outbreak

what if your issue isn't nutrient related? im sure 100% of claimants w say it is, but the large threads aren't backing it up its more of just a claim. you very well may have a nutrient issue, but its helpful to know you might not

need to see full tank shot, lets see fish bioloading initially and then sandbed details for nutrient clues

the algae can be made gone any time you like, its the potential waste stores I was interested in hunting. again, 100% of claimants feel algae always equals a nutrient issue, which disregards a thousand tanks we collect that had no nutrient issues before the invasion. im talking tanks running every form of po4 management and no3 management one could run. something that nulls 99% of claims, that type of thing. if your tank is one of those, you need to just kill the algae using any number of means and proceed on with the tank. if you have a nutrient issue, pics will show it and a brief tank history review.
 
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in the majority, not minority of cases, the HA isn't related to bad nutrients, says all the tanks with fine nutrients before, not during an outbreak

what if your issue isn't nutrient related? im sure 100% of claimants w say it is, but the large threads aren't backing it up its more of just a claim. you very well may have a nutrient issue, but its helpful to know you might not

need to see full tank shot, lets see fish bioloading initially and then sandbed details for nutrient clues

the algae can be made gone any time you like, its the potential waste stores I was interested in hunting. again, 100% of claimants feel algae always equals a nutrient issue, which disregards a thousand tanks we collect that had no nutrient issues before the invasion. im talking tanks running every form of po4 management and no3 management one could run. something that nulls 99% of claims, that type of thing. if your tank is one of those, you need to just kill the algae using any number of means and proceed on with the tank. if you have a nutrient issue, pics will show it and a brief tank history review.


Hers a pic of the tank, hope it helps. Fish seem to be healthy and happy, some corals doing very well. I have a powerhead in the back right side facing the front so algae is not so bad on the right. Its worse on the left side and I did try scrubbing some algae off the rock last night with a tooth brush so it was worse before.
Thanks .
Tank.jpg
 
When was the last time you cleaned your canister filter? There's a reason they are called nitrate factories. Not nitrate factories per say but more like nitrate traps. The mechanical media traps a lot of detritus like it is supposed to but if the mechanical media isn't cleaned every few days or every week, then the detritus breaks down into ammonia and so forth.
 
When was the last time you cleaned your canister filter? There's a reason they are called nitrate factories. Not nitrate factories per say but more like nitrate traps. The mechanical media traps a lot of detritus like it is supposed to but if the mechanical media isn't cleaned every few days or every week, then the detritus breaks down into ammonia and so forth.

I clean twice a week
 
Dont rely on the api test kits for phospates. Pick up a Hanna Checker with some phosphates reagents. I had a reading of 20ppm forever and ever, then I purchased a digital checker. When first tested phoshates they were .50 ppm. With GFO in a phosban reactor I was able to reduce phosphates to 0.05 over a two week period. Had to change the GFO four times.
 
I feel I have always had HA and bubble algae issues... I run GFO, I don't feed heavy, have a light bio load and run an oversized skimmer. I have a fuge with cheato and dragons breathe. Once a week I will use a turkey baster to blow detritus off my rocks. I have thought about vinegar/vodka dosing but haven't started yet. My tank is mainly softies so I haven't measured Ca,Alk or Mag lately. I'm starting to wonder if there out of wack can that contribute to algae growth? Last week my P04 was .03 on a Hanna ULR but I think may be higher and just getting eaten up. Will be following to see how you make out skip...
 
Dont rely on the api test kits for phospates. Pick up a Hanna Checker with some phosphates reagents. I had a reading of 20ppm forever and ever, then I purchased a digital checker. When first tested phoshates they were .50 ppm. With GFO in a phosban reactor I was able to reduce phosphates to 0.05 over a two week period. Had to change the GFO four times.


Thanks Ill do that. Any other suggestions for helping with the algae? I have quite a few crabs and snails, don't want to have to many but would that help?
 
I feel I have always had HA and bubble algae issues... I run GFO, I don't feed heavy, have a light bio load and run an oversized skimmer. I have a fuge with cheato and dragons breathe. Once a week I will use a turkey baster to blow detritus off my rocks. I have thought about vinegar/vodka dosing but haven't started yet. My tank is mainly softies so I haven't measured Ca,Alk or Mag lately. I'm starting to wonder if there out of wack can that contribute to algae growth? Last week my P04 was .03 on a Hanna ULR but I think may be higher and just getting eaten up. Will be following to see how you make out skip...


Thanks. I do blow my rock off when I clean the filter and do the once a week water change. Ill let you know if I have any luck.
 
in the majority, not minority of cases, the HA isn't related to bad nutrients, says all the tanks with fine nutrients before, not during an outbreak
.

I disagree with that simple assertion. If nutrients were as low as in natural seawater, algae will grow far slower. :)
 
Randy I have no prob in trying to slow algae by starving nutrients further, the majority will choose that. If anyone wants to forego the direct attack, leave the invader in place, and up one or more forms of nutrient control that is fine. I simply give options that have faster turnaround times that's all. Im also claiming lots of the coral bleaching and stn we see are being caused by people thinking one needs to have natural levels to prevent algae. whether its fast or slow, that algae still grows on the reef by the
the growth here looked to be pretty slow, and isolated just on first take


the reason I don't see your algae issue as nutrient related is because algae must grow among low nutrient measures in the wild to support the grazers on a reef, a little always gets through. your corals obviously like your current nutrients, so we leave those in place and simply make algae go away.

you did the right steps imo, but missed the cellular kill option. We use peroxide for that. if interested, see this thread.


if you want to nutrient starve it further that's fine too, just wanted to point out a really fast method you did 98% of it already with this first guided removal you did via brush. that's like mowing a lawn, growback is certain but you did control the original mass a bit in the action.

with the various chem options reviewed and photographed here, your growback drops tremendously in most tanks. in some, it stops, changing zero about nutrients.

just one tool of many to consider. there is no way to accurately debate algae control issues. what you have as algae options is either tested in large giant threads or it is not. I only reinforce that which we keep collecting outcomes for in large threads.
http://reef2reef.com/threads/reef2reef-pest-algae-challenge-thread-hydrogen-peroxide.187042/

its only one tool among many merely options. online offers for algae control will almost universally involve nutrients, that's for sure. it is very hard to convert algae farmers into spot removers, but we try :)
 
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