Algae ID and tearing apart zoas

[starypotter]

Hi everyone,
My tank just finished a mini cycle after an upgrade and I had a lot of new rocks and a lot of new snails for the bigger size tank so I let my lights run for about 12 hours a day to get something in there for them to eat. Well the past day or so it's really took off, at first it was just diatoms but it quickly turned into more. The other day I noticed some algae on one of my zoas that looked different than the rest, and today I noticed it had taken over the few polyps I had. Then I picked it up to be able to take a closer picture, tore off a little bit, it was hard to do but it came off. Then I tore off another clump and it took half the zoa with it! I have to polyps and algae floating in a container until I can figure out what to do with it. Peroxide dip I'm thinking.

I also have some other algae, some is just GHA. I've got a little bit of cyano starting, and I think there's some turf algae cropping up on my wires and powerhead. It took a pretty firm hand to rub it off the wide and the one powerhead was completely covered, I had to use significant pressure with my thumb to rub it off and it was chunky when it came off.

I also have a pencil cap, I got it a couple weeks ago, accidentally snapped it in half and I thought it was a goner but I stuck it in the sand anyway and it sprouted two new pencil caps! They're growing noticeably each day. I've got ulva in the DT and sump, and some other macro that I don't know what it is also in the sump. My corals all seem happy as clams other than the ones that are getting covered in algae.

There's no chemical filtration other than a bag of carbon haphazardly tossed between some baffles.

There's no fish in the tank, just inverts but I've been feeding somewhat heavily until recently because I didn't want my inverts to starve without a natural tank found food source.

I just did a 15 gallon water change (75 gallons in the system), but the DT had to be stopped from filtering through the sump for a couple days because I needed emergency water for my QT. I kept powerheads on the whole time though.

Info is...
Salt- Instant Ocean, though I'm at the end of my box and may switch to reef crystals
Temp- 78
API test kit-
Nitrates- 0
Phosphate- 5ppm- I'll add phosguard to my next order and look into some macro that'll take care of it naturally.

I also guess I should do a blackout? I'm just wondering how long. And when I blackout the display should I still light the sump? Theoretically I could do a fairly long one, all of my frags could be moved to my invert QT if I wanted. Once I get rid of the algae on them so I don't get those same problems there too.

I think I got everything, on with the pictures.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

The feathery one is bryopsis. You need fluconazole. You won’t beat it. It’ll zap the gha too.
Only do it the 21 days and def get the med stuff not the alge hd stuff.

Define mini cycle for me.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Don’t dip. Don’t dip zoas in peroxide. Just toss the corals back in.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Don’t do the black out. Ride it out.

Do you know the par at the waterline of the tank approximately?

You can dial in the time and it’ll make the corals happier. Alge and macros almost don’t seem to care how long they are one. (Usually becuse it a MUCH lower par in the sump).
Keep it on the reverse. Keep it long. Compete for the c02.

 

[starypotter]

The feathery one is bryopsis. You need fluconazole. You won’t beat it. It’ll zap the gha too.
Only do it the 21 days and def get the med stuff not the alge hd stuff.

Define mini cycle for me.

Lovely.
Mini cycle being I transferred all of my rock and sand from my 29 to this new 75 and two days later I had a brief (3-4 days?) diatom bloom. To be honest I didn't really track the numbers in the display since my inverts and corals were in a separate holding tank for the transfer.

Don’t dip. Don’t dip zoas in peroxide. Just toss the corals back in.

Okay got it! The group of polyps that was torn off just floats around, I guess I'll try to tear off as much of that algae as I can then glue it to a new rock.

Don’t do the black out. Ride it out.

Do you know the par at the waterline of the tank approximately?

You can dial in the time and it’ll make the corals happier. Alge and macros almost don’t seem to care how long they are one. (Usually becuse it a MUCH lower par in the sump).
Keep it on the reverse. Keep it long. Compete for the c02.

I have no idea what the par is, I'm running two black box led's with the blues at 55% and the whites at 10%. They're this one 4.5 inches from the surface.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Lovely.
Mini cycle being I transferred all of my rock and sand from my 29 to this new 75 and two days later I had a brief (3-4 days?) diatom bloom. To be honest I didn't really track the numbers in the display since my inverts and corals were in a separate holding tank for the transfer.

Okay got it! The group of polyps that was torn off just floats around, I guess I'll try to tear off as much of that algae as I can then glue it to a new rock.

I have no idea what the par is, I'm running two black box led's with the blues at 55% and the whites at 10%. They're this one 4.5 inches from the surface.

A mini cycle actually is a release of ammoina into the system. Ammoina is easily consumed by algaes. Esp green ones ime. Some other organisms prolly like it too. That’s where that come from. The appearance of stuff from moving a Rick is not always a mini cycle but somtimes a release of a preferred nutrient, in the BBC Attenbourough definition, and silicate as it’s a soft stone basically, will actually gather in piles of dust. Stirring will release it into the system.

Most black boxes appear to , at 1% in a 1:1 W:B ratio , give you 200 par measured at 12 from the fixture.
It’s good to estimate the par at least the top of the tank. Use a lux meter. 6000 is lux is about 100 par with led that not too blue. 300-400 par at the top of a tank is a good start.
Running them too long too high can cause probs for the coral. Photoinhibition. So you can run longer with a lower amount of light.
Ramping helps that , on a timer Lower can be better for longer.
And the alge will hate it.

If coral are pretty healthy , and the tank is kinda happy , you can just rip stuff off and glue it elsewhere.
Goes for pretty much everything ime.

 

[starypotter]

A mini cycle actually is a release of ammoina into the system. Ammoina is easily consumed by algaes. Esp green ones ime. Some other organisms prolly like it too. That’s where that come from. The appearance of stuff from moving a Rick is not always a mini cycle but somtimes a release of a preferred nutrient, in the BBC Attenbourough definition, and silicate as it’s a soft stone basically, will actually gather in piles of dust. Stirring will release it into the system.

Most black boxes appear to , at 1% in a 1:1 W:B ratio , give you 200 par measured at 12 from the fixture.
It’s good to estimate the par at least the top of the tank. Use a lux meter. 6000 is lux is about 100 par with led that not too blue. 300-400 par at the top of a tank is a good start.
Running them too long too high can cause probs for the coral. Photoinhibition. So you can run longer with a lower amount of light.
Ramping helps that , on a timer Lower can be better for longer.
And the alge will hate it.

If coral are pretty healthy , and the tank is kinda happy , you can just rip stuff off and glue it elsewhere.
Goes for pretty much everything ime.

Okay good to know, I do think that some ammonia was released because while I tried to keep my sand fluid in the 5 gallon pale for the day and a half it compacted pretty firmly so I'm guessing that there was some die off and probably some silicates too for good measure because why not!
The corals look mostly pretty good, it's hard for me to be 100% sure since I'm no zoa expert. My zoas that I got all stretched out are finally retracting, most of my zoas seem to be growing new polyps, the GSP is full and fluffy. I have a hammer coral that gets quite big and fluffy during the day and especially after I feed it it really gets super big and bouncy. But a couple of my zoas rarely open up fully but I think that's because there's a lot of algae on the plugs. One of them is looking rather cramped though. That being said half of my zoas have nearly doubled in size in the past 2 months.



Everything seems happy except for that burn it with fire algae.

What I'm hearing about the lights, because I don't really know much about any of that, is that I should maybe raise them a bit and lower the % but I can keep the time?

 

[starypotter]

The feathery one is bryopsis. You need fluconazole. You won’t beat it. It’ll zap the gha too.
Only do it the 21 days and def get the med stuff not the alge hd stuff.

Define mini cycle for me.

So I'm looking at the fluconazole now, it seems like there's only one on BRS and Saltwateraquarium which is Reef Flux. Then you also come up with an API fungus cure. Is Reef Flux what could be used then? Should I look for people stuff not quite sure what you mean with the med stuff not a

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

It’s in this link.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/bryopsis-cure-my-battle-with-bryopsis-using-fluconazole.285096/