Algae ID please

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rayn

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I'm at my end with this. I can't seem to get it under control. Turbos hardly touch it, rabbit fish won't touch it, but my long spine will it seems but only can do so much.

It's not the typical hair algae that I see or have experienced. Running a large skimmer, bio-reactor, Kent phos media, and weekly or bi weekly 30 gallon water changes on a 140~ total volume system. 1 rabbit fish and three clowns are the only fish.

Last check nitrate was a bit high at 40 ppm per Red Sea and phosphate was .05 per Hanna checker.
 
If it is cyano doesn't that take out the h202? What about carbon dosing?
 
If it is cyano doesn't that take out the h202? What about carbon dosing?
You lost me there.. that is not cyanobacteria you have
H2o2 dosing will help the situation but yes you will have to get nutrients under control.
 
Reef cleaners stated the lyngbya is a form of cyano. Not saying it is lyngbya yet.

Nutrient control is the first issue for sure, but then the need to get rid of it.
 
Reef cleaners stated the lyngbya is a form of cyano. Not saying it is lyngbya yet.

Nutrient control is the first issue for sure, but then the need to get rid of it.
I would be absolutely amazed if that information is correct under the microscope for the ID of lyngbya.
If it is correct then h2o2 would still be the choice of control IMO
 
There's a filamentous variety of cyanobacteria and it does have that appearance.
That is the thing, we go by looks
Now since this is being called a cyanobacteria can people tell the difference between cylindrospermum and spirulina basing it by looks?
 
I'm not saying you can ID Doug's on how it looks or that's ReefCleaner's photos are correct. I'm saying there IS a filamentous version of cyano that looks LIKE that.
 
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I understand it's difficult to specifically ID from a pic. But I don't want to treat for the wrong thing it make it worse either. My ciral QT sprouted HA and I added 4 turbos and they are making quick work of it. Amazingly quick to me. This looks nothing like HA in the other tank.

Just did a 15 gal water change and tested nitrate on old water and it is right at 40 ppm. Agreed I need to get them down.
 
Agreed on potential courses of action but you can model the outcome and not guess by acting on the whole tank. Most choices you can make will kill the target, it's growback that varies

To take any action on that tank and target without basing actions on a test rock is guessing even if the ID is pinpointed but most would rather just dose tank and see what happens

we can find compliant and non compliant examples for any invader online so it's not about id alone IMO it's about hedging vs guessing as reaction


Tank variables like clean/dirty sandbed matter...varying grazer balances and lighting balances among tanks. To know your variables you could do three or four test rocks to check for regrowth rates.

One you scrape it all off with a tool and treat with nothing, put back hand scraped.

Second is scraped with hard peroxide treatment done after scraping, externally, for the solid burn test. This usually complies the best but we can know.

Third is rock nothing removed, but soaked overnight in known peroxide safe dilutions, 1:10 for example (google that with peroxide/reef key terms it'll come up)

Fourth is test rock nothing scraped, but soaked couple days in a bucket with water spiked to 1900 magnesium via Kent. All the while the main tank endures nothing... you'll know in a week which is certain to be best.



I would take the verified best action not on a tank full of growth/mass, but on a tank you hand cleaned for a week before taking any action. The pre cleaning work is done so that the action taken now only has to prevent growback. Most will not do any of this, it's truly last resort but it is a sure fix as well. Dirty sandbed = fix for sure if applicable
 
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Agreed on potential courses of action but you can model the outcome and not guess by acting on the whole tank. Most choices you can make will kill the target, it's growback that varies

To take any action on that tank and target without basing actions on a test rock is guessing even if the ID is pinpointed but most would rather just dose tank and see what happens

we can find compliant and non compliant examples for any invader online so it's not about id alone IMO it's about hedging vs guessing as reaction


Tank variables like clean/dirty sandbed matter...varying grazer balances and lighting balances among tanks. To know your variables you could do three or four test rocks to check for regrowth rates.

One you scrape it all off with a tool and treat with nothing, put back hand scraped.

Second is scraped with hard peroxide treatment done after scraping, externally, for the solid burn test. This usually complies the best but we can know.

Third is rock nothing removed, but soaked overnight in known peroxide safe dilutions, 1:10 for example (google that with peroxide/reef key terms it'll come up)

Fourth is test rock nothing scraped, but soaked couple days in a bucket with water spiked to 1900 magnesium via Kent. All the while the main tank endures nothing... you'll know in a week which is certain to be best.



I would take the verified best action not on a tank full of growth/mass, but on a tank you hand cleaned for a week before taking any action. The pre cleaning work is done so that the action taken now only has to prevent growback. Most will not do any of this, it's truly last resort but it is a sure fix as well. Dirty sandbed = fix for sure if applicable
You have been hiding buddy!
Good to see you :)
 
@brandon429 that has to be one of the best coarses I have ever read! Sure it may take some work, but it gives a solution without disturbing the entire tank like you say.
 
Thank you Rayn I promise it's so handy.if you w take pics for us I have three hungry threads that want to see it ran. If we can clean out your tank via skip cycle method and fix those rocks, it's full tank restore.


I took a weekend at the lake w no posting

got something related to photonic burning of epidermal layer 1 skin=red not sure what is up, this doesn't happen when I stay indoors
 
Tech M is ordered. I can't seem to find it locally.

Is there a specific h202?

I ask as tech m works where other mag supplements don't, so making sure there isn't a certain brand to use.
 
excellent! the store bought or pharmacy is right, good enough for my kids knee=good nuff for reef.

*changing medical procedures of the day/minute shy away from wound use, but we didn't


:)
 

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