Algae ID (possible dinos and cyano)

Runnin'Reefer

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 12, 2022
Messages
218
Reaction score
120
Location
Cedarville, OH
What state or country do you live in
Ohio
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I'm not too bothered by the algae in my tank, but there is a decent amount. I would like to start moving toward getting rid of it, but I want to ID it before I do anything. From what I have looked up, I am thinking some hair algae, calothrix, and dinos. Let me know what you think. The part of the rockwork at the beginning of the video is what i am thinking is dinos, and the stuff on top I'm thinking is either hair or calothrix.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6057.mov
    21 MB
I'm not too bothered by the algae in my tank, but there is a decent amount. I would like to start moving toward getting rid of it, but I want to ID it before I do anything. From what I have looked up, I am thinking some hair algae, calothrix, and dinos. Let me know what you think. The part of the rockwork at the beginning of the video is what i am thinking is dinos, and the stuff on top I'm thinking is either hair or calothrix.
While I can’t open video on my phone as I’m heading for pillow, this formula will work for both:
Prepare by starting with a water change and blow this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles. Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15% IF you have light dependant corals) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX
 
I agree with your assessment. Dinos and some gha beginning. Tanks doesn't look new, so I would start with testing phosphates just to confirm and start running some GFO. You don't really get gha unless you have high phosphates in my experience.
 
This is super helpful! Thank you so much! How much of a water change should I do? I have a 32 g cube so I typically do a 5 g change every two weeks or so which would be about 20% but I have been thinking about doing a 10 g change to cut down on my nitrates which are probably between 10-15. I'm very new to this whole reefing world this year, so I'm not super sure about which corals are light dependent and independent. I have a little colony of zoas, a mushroom, and some digi that a buddy gave me. To my knowledge, the digi and zoas are definitely light dependent. Let me know if I am right on that
 
I agree with your assessment. Dinos and some gha beginning. Tanks doesn't look new, so I would start with testing phosphates just to confirm and start running some GFO. You don't really get gha unless you have high phosphates in my experience.
I put the tank together at the beginning of october, so it still is pretty new. The ghp has been growing since about 3 weeks into having the lights on after my cycle when I put that little zoa colony in there. I have an API test kit which is terrible for testing phosphates, so I never know how much I really have. I don't know what GFO is, so I'm going to look into it
 
This is super helpful! Thank you so much! How much of a water change should I do? I have a 32 g cube so I typically do a 5 g change every two weeks or so which would be about 20% but I have been thinking about doing a 10 g change to cut down on my nitrates which are probably between 10-15. I'm very new to this whole reefing world this year, so I'm not super sure about which corals are light dependent and independent. I have a little colony of zoas, a mushroom, and some digi that a buddy gave me. To my knowledge, the digi and zoas are definitely light dependent. Let me know if I am right on that
Siphon up the visible flagellates then start
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top