Algae id

#reefsquad , is that Dinos?
Yes ostreo
Prepare by starting with a water change and blow this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles.
Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15% IF you have light dependant corals) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off.
During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons.
Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX as it is food for dinos.
Day 5,, you can start with blue lights - ramping up and work your white lights up slowly
 
Yes ostreo
Prepare by starting with a water change

I’d avoid doing a water change unless you want it to get worse. Water changes promote this species of Dino’s 100% (probably all species). This is likely because of Iron in the Salt, and also due to the destabilizing event of a water change. Either way, water changes should be avoided.
 
I’d avoid doing a water change unless you want it to get worse. Water changes promote this species of Dino’s 100% (probably all species). This is likely because of Iron in the Salt, and also due to the destabilizing event of a water change. Either way, water changes should be avoided.
Having a couple hundred people follow this successfully.. . You don’t want those strands of flagellates sitting there hence the siphoning of loose matter which are very receptive to light
 
Having a couple hundred people follow this successfully.. . You don’t want those strands of flagellates sitting there hence the siphoning of loose matter which are very receptive to light

Couple hundred people are not, it promotes Dino’s. Everybody that is on the major Dino forums all know this. The Dino’s can sit there for months as long as GAC is actively running in the system. Siphoning the rocks and sand only reduces the microbiology in the tank. Dino’s reproduce faster than you can ever siphon them. Ask me how I know.
 
Couple hundred people are not, it promotes Dino’s. Everybody that is on the major Dino forums all know this. The Dino’s can sit there for months as long as GAC is actively running in the system. Siphoning the rocks and sand only reduces the microbiology in the tank. Dino’s reproduce faster than you can ever siphon them. Ask me how I know.
Dino does remain and not referring to siphoning the sandbed (heck no) - the strands blown loose
I too have gone through Dino/ first one disastrous but last one piece of cake
 
Dino does remain and not referring to siphoning the sandbed (heck no) - the strands blown loose
I too have gone through Dino/ first one disastrous but last one piece of cake

I currently have this species and all I can say is I’ve come to know it pretty well. I just don’t wanna see anybody take steps backwards. I think a UV can be one of the most important tools, however it did not work for mine- even with a measured flow rate. If I didn’t have 30 species of Acropora in the system, I could’ve beat them a long time ago. For now everything needs to be slow and calculated. Given enough time and tank maturity the balance will shift (I’ve already started the shift), and they will be gone as they are barely hanging on now.

If a person wants to beat this species here are a few things that I know will help:

1. UV (may or may not work, but has worked for many)
2. Add good source of live rock (KP Aquatics)
3. Add Phyto (this will help feed and boost the microbiology in the system)
4. Keep nutrients in range. (My tank suppressed them the most when nutrients were in ratio. Around 100:1. N (10-20) P (0.1-0.2)
5. They don’t like Dr Tim’s Waste Away
6. They don’t like certain Carbon Sources (experienced reefers only).
I believe what is happening with 5&6 is that both are outcompeting the Dino’s for nutrients. However, special attention is required to keep nutrients from bottoming out. You can’t just dose a large amount of carbon or waste away unless you really know your system and now to balance nutrients. You also need good oxygenation in the system.
7. No Amino’s.
8. No Vitamins.
9. No Coral foods.
10. No water changes
11. Dr Tim’s “One and Only” can be dosed with Waste Away and will have almost zero effect on nutrients unlike Waste Away. These nitrifier’s will also help build a bacterial army.
 
Add Pods to that list. I accidentally bumped the post reply button. Then my phone froze up.
 
Yall don't fight I'm going to try multiple methods. Currently have carbon pads probably helping keep the toxins low as my livestock show no signs of stress. Turned white lights to under 5% and will turn them off completely today. I'll start dosing phos and nitrate to get it back up
 
Yall don't fight I'm going to try multiple methods. Currently have carbon pads probably helping keep the toxins low as my livestock show no signs of stress. Turned white lights to under 5% and will turn them off completely today. I'll start dosing phos and nitrate to get it back up
As I said, there are lots of different recommendations for treating dinos :)
 
As I said, there are lots of different recommendations for treating dinos :)
Yes there is. :-)

I follow the most experienced guy’s in the two biggest Dino groups on Facebook and have been for quite sometime. They’ve helped thousands upon thousands of people with methods proven to work. I haven’t seen any other group’s in our community that are this big, and who deal with this many people on a daily basis. The problem is that every tank is different.

I’ve spoken with @saltyhog here on the ReefSquad and Cruz Arias many times about mine. Those two guys are Pro’s IMO, and provide factual information that helps leverage the battlefield.

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706E4C5E-2752-4D8C-B90B-0EE26BC2AFB5.png
 
This is a good picture of what Ostreopsis Dino’s look like in the tank. Let me tell you, they are fun. Don’t underestimate them or let them come back a second or third time. Each time their numbers increase.


FFCE44E1-83C9-4531-951B-2776F18030A6.jpeg
 
Yes there is. :)

I follow the most experienced guy’s in the two biggest Dino groups on Facebook and have been for quite sometime. They’ve helped thousands upon thousands of people with methods proven to work. I haven’t seen any other group’s in our community that are this big, and who deal with this many people on a daily basis. The problem is that every tank is different.

I’ve spoken with @saltyhog here on the ReefSquad and Cruz Arias many times about mine. Those two guys are Pro’s IMO, and provide factual information that helps leverage the battlefield.

F7246855-1440-4C9F-BDB1-3A3B47155DAD.png
706E4C5E-2752-4D8C-B90B-0EE26BC2AFB5.png
Thanks I'll definitely ask them
 
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decided to try these out and got two to see of this will help. 210 gph really only need 180gph for my tank size so I'll dial them back a bit.
 
Looks like ostreopsis dinos to me.

Is it okay for my snail to be going at the dinos like this? Hes cleared a good 6"×6" patch and its says these dinos are toxic?
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I don’t know for sure. I do know that the toxins can kill snails. I personally would let him eat what he’s going to eat and trying to eliminate dinos in the tank as a whole.
 
I don’t know for sure. I do know that the toxins can kill snails. I personally would let him eat what he’s going to eat and trying to eliminate dinos in the tank as a whole.
He just went at it all yesterday but he's still alive haha. Just started a short blackout and ran both uv filters after scrubbing the tank and changing the filter sock so we'll see what happens
 
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After three days of no lights dosing phos and Nitrate running uv the dinos seem to be gone. Turned on the lights so well see if they reappear
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Before and after ^
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Spaghetti and linguine enjoying the dino free rocks
 
To make my life harder they decides to come back with a vengeance the last two days. I've been dosing nitrates for over a week and everything is looking better but I disturbed my cheato after noticing some gha and that's when the dinos came back :( so ig I'm going to try the full uv filter setup
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