Algae identification

Atrax108

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Can anyone identify this Algae. I am pretty sure it is a hair algae. Thought it was Dino at first microscope tells a different story. All I know is it is ugly and I can’t seem to get rid of it. It will look like it is going away the comes back. Please see attached photos and vid.

AED68469-C526-4670-A1AA-BB5107B49D84.jpeg 140AE9E7-C8FC-4F36-9CAC-A50236169D86.jpeg
41CA0D51-5169-4C98-8AFC-BEED07CE83AF.jpeg
 

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that method is designed to change your tank from invaded to uninvaded, overnight. then you make sustained changes in reefing that got it originally invaded and you won't have to clean it surgically again. as of now its your only option, that's too much mass to degrade/rot in the tank even if a random hands off kill method does work, you can't rot that much waste into the system safely. too many cellular irritants and exudates from mass rot of target, you have to do reef tank surgery to fix it having let it go this far. from the clean condition, common UV sterilizer would help tremendously. ensuring zero tds sourcewater; lowering your light levels and sustaining them for 2 months/keeping nitrate and phosphate balanced while adding in pods to boost up microorganism levels, all are valid preventatives but they don't clean out the tank's mass for you. they come after you do the gardening work
 
Need better photos with white light and close up shots. Kinda looks like bryopsis but not 100%. Does it come off the Rick easily? And clean up crew eating it?
 


that method is designed to change your tank from invaded to uninvaded, overnight. then you make sustained changes in reefing that got it originally invaded and you won't have to clean it surgically again. as of now its your only option, that's too much mass to degrade/rot in the tank even if a random hands off kill method does work, you can't rot that much waste into the system safely. too many cellular irritants and exudates from mass rot of target, you have to do reef tank surgery to fix it having let it go this far. from the clean condition, common UV sterilizer would help tremendously. ensuring zero tds sourcewater; lowering your light levels and sustaining them for 2 months/keeping nitrate and phosphate balanced while adding in pods to boost up microorganism levels, all are valid preventatives but they don't clean out the tank's mass for you. they come after you do the gardening work
Long time no talk sir! I've changed my name on here I was seekr1 I believe
 
hey I thought your avatar was the same man that always looked strange to me. I thought dang there are more than one midland area catfisherman/call it a small world

there's not any decade if sampled I won't be selling rip clean jobs. there's kirby salesmen, then there's rip clean salesmen. hope your stuff is good man
 
hey I thought your avatar was the same man that always looked strange to me. I thought dang there are more than one midland area catfisherman/call it a small world

there's not any decade if sampled I won't be selling rip clean jobs. there's kirby salesmen, then there's rip clean salesmen. hope your stuff is good man
Sent you a pm
 
Need better photos with white light and close up shots. Kinda looks like bryopsis but not 100%. Does it come off the Rick easily? And clean up crew eating it?
It does not come off easy in fact it binds to substrate and can’t be removed without removing half the sand bed with it. Clean up crew is eating the crap out of it. I think Bryopsis as well but not sure.
 


that method is designed to change your tank from invaded to uninvaded, overnight. then you make sustained changes in reefing that got it originally invaded and you won't have to clean it surgically again. as of now its your only option, that's too much mass to degrade/rot in the tank even if a random hands off kill method does work, you can't rot that much waste into the system safely. too many cellular irritants and exudates from mass rot of target, you have to do reef tank surgery to fix it having let it go this far. from the clean condition, common UV sterilizer would help tremendously. ensuring zero tds sourcewater; lowering your light levels and sustaining them for 2 months/keeping nitrate and phosphate balanced while adding in pods to boost up microorganism levels, all are valid preventatives but they don't clean out the tank's mass for you. they come after you do the gardening work
I manually clean this up every other day that’s why I thought Dino at first
 
Large grain sandbed holds more waste + cells, needs complete cleaning all at once. Partial internal cleaning can't get those results shown sustained like we do
 
Large grain sandbed holds more waste + cells, needs complete cleaning all at once. Partial internal cleaning can't get those results shown sustained like we do
Should I completely replace sand bed with finer grain sand I have been thinking about doing that for a while
 
I rate it as a small detail but still does factor, it's truly a housing/insulation zone that dinos can be protected among the grains. hey how many gallons is this tank/can we see a full tank shot to get an idea of unspoken ratios/presentation etc
 
I guarantee you if that was my tank, UV would be installed after a rip clean for sure it would be my #1 strategy combo on it from what I can see.

then the part like less intense lighting/source water verification etc all after those two big alignments.
 
I would, that stuff looks like a nightmare to keep clean. Or go bare bottom.
Yea it was crushed coral and I regretted it within a week. I changed the sand bed did a 30% water change and scrubbed all the rock and glass with peroxide it looks like a brand new tank now just hope I don’t get any ammonia spikes of corse all the coral is closed up but i think it will all bounce back in a day.
FEA7CB4C-241A-48DE-9A82-E0C92CC6B0DA.jpeg
 
Wait what

that’s amazing

are you saying you just did an instant bed swap plus complete tank clean, and got the water that clear, since just the last time we posted like a few hours ago

thats cloudless, very clean rinse / that just happened right now?? It’s usually a nine day prep with sixteen redundant procedure reviews / what / how

thats plenty of live rock bacteria it won’t ammonia cycle, api would indicate 8 ppm most likely, when does it not, but it’s not a real ammonia spike any more than someone moving rocks around in a tank and getting 8 ppm is a real ammonia spike, have threads on that. Not testing for ammonia would be the wisest move, then there’s no temptation to react to a misread and dose in prime + bottle bac when all we need is to wow at your after pics and move on reefing.
 
Yea it was crushed coral and I regretted it within a week. I changed the sand bed did a 30% water change and scrubbed all the rock and glass with peroxide it looks like a brand new tank now just hope I don’t get any ammonia spikes of corse all the coral is closed up but i think it will all bounce back in a day.
FEA7CB4C-241A-48DE-9A82-E0C92CC6B0DA.jpeg
Yes, ammonia has to be very high short term to cause problems.
 
Yea it was crushed coral and I regretted it within a week. I changed the sand bed did a 30% water change and scrubbed all the rock and glass with peroxide it looks like a brand new tank now just hope I don’t get any ammonia spikes of corse all the coral is closed up but i think it will all bounce back in a day.
FEA7CB4C-241A-48DE-9A82-E0C92CC6B0DA.jpeg
And it looks better, to me :)
 
Wait what

that’s amazing

are you saying you just did an instant bed swap plus complete tank clean, and got the water that clear, since just the last time we posted like a few hours ago

thats cloudless, very clean rinse / that just happened right now?? It’s usually a nine day prep with sixteen redundant procedure reviews / what / how

thats plenty of live rock bacteria it won’t ammonia cycle, api would indicate 8 ppm most likely, when does it not, but it’s not a real ammonia spike any more than someone moving rocks around in a tank and getting 8 ppm is a real ammonia spike, have threads on that. Not testing for ammonia would be the wisest move, then there’s no temptation to react to a misread and dose in prime + bottle bac when all we need is to wow at your after pics and move on reefing.
So what is did is removed water through a filter sock. Removed all the rock and live stock put it in the bucket of old tank water. Washed out the tank. I used live sand so it would have some beneficial bacteria. Scribed all the rock with peroxide. Dipped coral then put the tank back together. Filled with 70% of old water but siphoned it through a filter sock back into the tank and added 30% new water. It took about 30 min for water to clear up. Finished with a dose of microbacter7.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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