Algae issue

I do well with API test kits but have others as I use as back up and cross testing from time to time. The trick IMO is to shake the heck of them each and every time you use them without failure... all of them! I also label the test tubes and use the same ones per test every time, cleaning them well in warm city water then RO water.
 
I do use the same test tubes for the 2 API test kits I have, PO4 and Calcium. I shake the bottles on both the API and my Red Sea even if it doesn't mention it, usually about 10 secs per bottle. I should bring in a sample to my LFS and see what they have to say, actually I think they use API as well...lol. I can try a few different and see if I can come up with similar results or if they are much different than mine.

I ended up getting a Diamond Goby today to help with the sand bed, hopefully it will help out some. I am thinking about getting a ATS, but I don't know enough about them to know which one to go with. I'll just keep reading up! If anyone has any advice I would greatly appreciate it especially when it comes to ATS knowledge.
 
Well I have had some issues with the API test kits... 1st the line which is marked 5ml is actually at 4ml (at least on my two kits) I used a syringe to get the proper measurements.

It also sounds like you're doing everything well and your husbandry is good, however if you have a little extra cash I would strongly suggest investing in a RO/DI unit... best investment by far and you don't have to haul water from the LFS; also with my experience I don't trust the LFS and I always test what they give me, just to make sure.

I would also suggest to work slowly on the situation and dont rush as you can easily end up crashing the tank by dosing... Personally I've never tried a algae scrubber but I think it might be something to think of (I am currently setting up a fuge and I will have a scrubber pouring the water in this tank)

Also you said the lights were changed and that could actually create some algae as the system is getting a little shock (something to think of) - for example I just sold my 34G AIO EuroCube since we have a little baby and needed space for baby play-yard.
I took my habitats (pair of clowns, cleaner wrasse, CBS, and a anemone which was splitting at the time) along with the live rock and now the rock with the anemones is turning brown and growing some form of funky algae which Ive never had before... I am thinking that the light change (went from a MHI 20k 150W bulb to two Ecotech Radions with TIR lenses) is causing this... just a thought.

Another point is to run the fuge light opposite your cycle to regulate the ph drop during the night - old bulbs can also cause a algae bloom in the fuge.

Your cleanup crew needs some algae eating snails...nassarius snails are detritus and waste eaters, peppermint shrimps can get lazy but normally have an appetite for aptasia(don't care for algae) and how many hermits do you have? Hermits are known to eat algae, but can get lazy if they are full. Depending on the amount of algae, I would strongly recommend two-three Strawberry Top Hat Snails - they love algae, especially if they are hungry and since they move super slow, they tend just chow down algae like a lawnmower (sometimes I pick mine up and put them on a algae patch - they do get annoying and knock over corals so make sure they are glued down - they also grow fairly large so giving them to others with algae issues is a idea).

Lastly a sea-hare can really munch on algae, although your tank is a little small for this; you can always borrow one from a fellow reefer and have the hare chow down the nuisance algae then give it back.
 
46gReef- I change my water on Saturday's, my total water volume is about 40-45g so I usually do a 10g water change.

Ginu- I got a Diamond Goby and the sand looks 100 times better in just 2 days. The only downside so far is that he kicks the sand into the water so it can get cloudy, but i'm hoping this is just while he is making is burrows. I really don't have any algae on my rocks, but I do have about 4-5 hermits and 12 Nass snails. I will check into the ones that you mentioned. As for my shrimp, I had a few Peppermints, Fire/Blood and Cleaner but my Mystery Wrasse decided one day to wipe almost all of them out... And he lived with these shrimp for a few months! I'm thinking of finding him a new home.

So the sand is doing much better, but I would really like to look into the ATS more, if I get one, do they usually get setup over the fuge and drain in to it? I have read that some people do 2 lights and others do 1 light, which is better or is it a preference?
 
If your issue is cyano I think the Goby will only exacerbate the problem. Getting to the cause is the best way I eradicate it. Having said that I love to watch the gobies work. Other than making the tank a bit cloudy from the sand I live them.



I do use the same test tubes for the 2 API test kits I have, PO4 and Calcium. I shake the bottles on both the API and my Red Sea even if it doesn't mention it, usually about 10 secs per bottle. I should bring in a sample to my LFS and see what they have to say, actually I think they use API as well...lol. I can try a few different and see if I can come up with similar results or if they are much different than mine.

I ended up getting a Diamond Goby today to help with the sand bed, hopefully it will help out some. I am thinking about getting a ATS, but I don't know enough about them to know which one to go with. I'll just keep reading up! If anyone has any advice I would greatly appreciate it especially when it comes to ATS knowledge.
 
ATS is great but that along with an RODI would be best. Tunze makes a great ATO.
46gReef- I change my water on Saturday's, my total water volume is about 40-45g so I usually do a 10g water change.

Ginu- I got a Diamond Goby and the sand looks 100 times better in just 2 days. The only downside so far is that he kicks the sand into the water so it can get cloudy, but i'm hoping this is just while he is making is burrows. I really don't have any algae on my rocks, but I do have about 4-5 hermits and 12 Nass snails. I will check into the ones that you mentioned. As for my shrimp, I had a few Peppermints, Fire/Blood and Cleaner but my Mystery Wrasse decided one day to wipe almost all of them out... And he lived with these shrimp for a few months! I'm thinking of finding him a new home.

So the sand is doing much better, but I would really like to look into the ATS more, if I get one, do they usually get setup over the fuge and drain in to it? I have read that some people do 2 lights and others do 1 light, which is better or is it a preference?
 
Those readings are not bad. IMO your Ca is a little low as well as your Mg,but that's beside the point. Your Nitrate is a bit high. Remember if you have algae growing it will give you a lower reading. Your po4 is good and I'm sure that's the GFO. If your vodka dosing that should help with your nitrates but they still appear a little high.
I still think you have a high nutrient issue. IMO until you get to the root cause your GFO and Vodka will only mask the underling cause.
 
What is your fish stock list? I also agree nitrates are high, I would recommend a series of LARGE (10-15 gallon) H2O changes 2-3 days apart then see where your nitrate levels are at. IME it works wonders.....
 
There are a few things that can cause apace issues.
Available nutrients - Especially phosphates and iron.
Low flow/Dead Zone - Cyano prefers growing in low flow areas.
Warmer Water - Cyano tends to grow faster in warmer water than in cooler water
Low Alkalinity- While not a cause, higher alkalinity tends to discourage cyano growth.
Possible "contaminated" water source like tap water, that has nutrients fueling the outbreak

Everything else aside one of these should be your root cause. I'm still guessing a bad water source from your LFS or high nutrients, nitrate or po4. Your numbers do not look bad although your Ca and Mg are a little low (not the cause). But dig a little and have your water tested somewhere else. Remember numbers can be screwed if you have lots of algae, in your DT because they will consume nitrates and p04.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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