This is my condy anemone, it eats and up until last week, it looked quite healthy. It is now growing algae on it and not opening up like it used to. I bought a porcelain crap to see if he would help but he won't even go near it. Any ideas??
Algae killing my anemone! Help!
- Thread starter jcosta26
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This is my condy anemone, it eats and up until last week, it looked quite healthy. It is now growing algae on it and not opening up like it used to. I bought a porcelain crap to see if he would help but he won't even go near it. Any ideas??
I agree ,it may be dinos.
That is very strange usually with an out break this bad you would have higher levels. Do you use RODI water? Is that a typo on your ALK? I thought that was supposed to be in the 7-11 range
This really looks like dinoflagellates and green cyanobacteria to me.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/at-my-wits-end.203996/#post-2332706
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/at-my-wits-end.203996/#post-2332706
I guarantee you if i had a large reef it would be made immune to both of these invaders day 1. for a small reef its still immune to both of these forever due to the degree of access i have to the water column and all areas. a large tank is hard to clean out, you have to be more preventative.
The way i would certainly gain the permanent upper hand in a large tank is by grossly oversizing a uv unit meant for a pond that is orders too large for the tank Id have it on.
This method has been featured, before and after pic'd, and tested on our large cure threads they are easy to find. I recommend it out of practice, not guessing.
Large tanks have to use cheats that are mechanical or chemical more often than not to deal with tough invasions, this above is likely a mix of obligate hitchhikers which you can kill by direct action (dino component of that complex above) and ubiquitous ones that will always be present and react to phosphate, which by the way is ok here (cyano component)
i realize its hotly debated online whether uv is effective and against what, but im saying for the details i wrote, and this specific invader group, id beat it easily. i can name five other infestations id rather have vs this one above, oversized uv is that effective. all you do is manually remove the offender every single day (the price of early inaction=couple weeks extra work for us) and make zero biomass of it in the tank. that alone cures it from killing your anemone.
the grossly oversized uv simply handles the floaters you create in manually removing 100% of it.
The way i would certainly gain the permanent upper hand in a large tank is by grossly oversizing a uv unit meant for a pond that is orders too large for the tank Id have it on.
This method has been featured, before and after pic'd, and tested on our large cure threads they are easy to find. I recommend it out of practice, not guessing.
Large tanks have to use cheats that are mechanical or chemical more often than not to deal with tough invasions, this above is likely a mix of obligate hitchhikers which you can kill by direct action (dino component of that complex above) and ubiquitous ones that will always be present and react to phosphate, which by the way is ok here (cyano component)
i realize its hotly debated online whether uv is effective and against what, but im saying for the details i wrote, and this specific invader group, id beat it easily. i can name five other infestations id rather have vs this one above, oversized uv is that effective. all you do is manually remove the offender every single day (the price of early inaction=couple weeks extra work for us) and make zero biomass of it in the tank. that alone cures it from killing your anemone.
the grossly oversized uv simply handles the floaters you create in manually removing 100% of it.
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Its not the algae killing the anemone, i suggest its because the anemone is unhappy, unhealthy, stressed or weak . Thereby lowering its natural defence mechanisms (mucus coating) and making it possible for the algae to grow on/in it.
Possibly need to keep Alk/Ca balanced and all other parameters at optimum levels and stable.
Also double check your test results and salinity/SG with different test kits to confirm.
Possibly need to keep Alk/Ca balanced and all other parameters at optimum levels and stable.
Also double check your test results and salinity/SG with different test kits to confirm.
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SantaMonicaHelp
Valuable Member
That condy anemone is very cool. Is there anything nearby that could be stressing it out?
~CI
~CI
