Algae or Bacteria? Please help

Jmblec2

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Does anyone know what this is? would Fluconazole take care of this?



20170925_160535.jpg


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Nope. Fluconazole won't help with that.

That is a chrystophyests or a common slime algae.

The normal cure is to scrub a lot and add a bunch of snails.

You could also try vibrant aquarium cleaner.
 
Nope. Fluconazole won't help with that.

That is a chrystophyests or a common slime algae.

The normal cure is to scrub a lot and add a bunch of snails.

You could also try vibrant aquarium cleaner.
It'll grow back again and again. ;)
 
It'll grow back again and again. ;)
You don't think the vibrant will kill it?

I had a much smaller amount in my lil 14g qt. I did the full scrub w light peroxide and added snails.
(And mud;))
 
You don't think the vibrant will kill it?

I had a much smaller amount in my lil 14g qt. I did the full scrub w light peroxide and added snails.
(And mud;))
Never tried it. Vibrant more or less reduces nutrients. But if nutrients are locked in the rocks(which is where the algae is growing) vibrant isn't going to touch it. Remember, chrysophytes have a silica based armour.
 
@saltyfilmfolks Keep in mind, I tried various routes to reduce nutrients in regards to removing chrysos. Including Dr. Tims waste away and Refresh.
Chrysophyta (golden-brown algae)
The Chrysophyta are the golden-brown algae and diatoms, which respectively account for 1,100 and 40,000-100,000 species of unicellular algae. These algae occur in both marine and fresh waters, although most species are marine. The cell walls of golden-brown algae and diatoms are made of cellulose and pectic materials, a type of hemicellulose. In the diatoms especially, the cell wall is heavily impregnated with silica and is therefore quite rigid and resistant to decay. These algae store energy as a carbohydrate called leucosin, and also in oil droplets. The golden-brown algae achieve locomotion using one to two flagellae. The photosynthetic pigments of these algae are chlorophylls a and c, and the accessory pigments are carotenoids and xanthophylls, including a specialized pigment known as fucoxanthin.

Read more: Algae - Algae And Their Characteristics, Types Of Algae, Ecological Relationships, Factors Limiting The Productivity Of Algae - Species, Brown, Green, and Pigments - JRank Articles http://science.jrank.org/pages/205/Algae.html#ixzz4J1v9D5IA

The Beginning...
Start.jpg mar012016.jpg

JBJ Rimless 30 gallon. The tank was erected on Feb 1st 2016. The two photos above are March 1st 2016.

Diatoms, CUC, Coral

Not long into March did diatoms bloom. Additional clean up crew was added. 3 Cerith, 3 Astrea, 2 Nassarius, 2 Turbos. A few days later I added 3 coral. 2 types of zoanthid and 1 acan.

march1.jpg
march2.jpg march3.jpg

Let's fast forward a month and discuss inhabitants.

This tank was started with the "BRS method" or dry rock and bottle bacteria. Everything was planned and executed properly. The first 3 days after the tank was started and bacteria added, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate tests were preformed. All tests were good with no detection of ammonia or nitrates. As suggested by BRS a fish was added. I chose an Azure Damsel that had been observed for more than 4 weeks at a local fish store. The fish was healthy and active. He remained in this tank for exactly 28 days. Ammonia, nitrite and nitrate never spiked.

First month:
Azure Damsel

The Damsel was returned and I immediately added my existing live stock from my previous tank. At this time 2 clownfish were introduced. A month later a Firefish was introduced. Following was my pistol shrimp and goby pair. Last but not least, the cleaner shrimp was added. This took a total of 3 months to get that list moved over.

Four Months Later:
Azure Damsel(removed)
Clownfish x2
Firefish
Hi-fin Goby
Pistol Shrimp

Fifth Month:

Firefish was found dead inside shrimp and goby cave. It was believed the firefish had a hard time establishing itself a home. Often times darting itself quickly into the shrimp and goby cave. This accident was witnessed more than once, even though the firefish had it's own cave. I believe the shrimp got the best of him out of being frightened. After 3 days of no signs of firefish, a large rock was removed to find the skeleton and partial face of the firefish.

June1.jpg

A week later Phosphates spiked and 2 turbos died. not sure if it was related or lack of food for turbos. 2 weeks after that phosphates peaked at 0.21ppm. Cyano quickly exposed itself.

Identification Period via R2R

The mulm, sludge, slime, slop, whatever you want to call it began to progress. I decided to get on R2R to get a positive ID and go from there. Diatoms, Calothrix, Dino, Cyano, Nutrient mulm and now Chrysophytes have been floating around. Quickly more pictures and videos have been uploaded.

20160615_184301-jpg.364108

20160615_184355-jpg.364109

June2.jpg

The pictures just weren't telling enough so on to the videos...
June

September
Videos weren't enough. On to the microscope!

Provided by @twilliard and @Russ265

reeferfoxx-png.365876


Things I've tried...

  • H2O2 dosing 1ml/10g and 1ml/8g (14 days)
  • Weekly 25%-30% WC
  • MetroPlex
  • Manual Removal via toothbrush and turkey baster filtered by filter floss
  • Increased clean up crew
  • Reduced lighting from 8 hours to 4 hours a day
  • GFO to reduce PO4 (only 28 hours)
  • Dr. Tims Waste-Away 14 days (might have made it worse)
  • Seeded micro fauna (brittle starfish, spaghetti worms, aphipods)
  • Dosed Stability for 7 days (no change)
  • Yeast (did nothing)
NO3 had been undetectable for some time. I now dose KNO3 to maintain NO3 2-3ppm. Phosphates are now maintained at 0.01ppm.

The tank today September 1st

20160819_120351.jpg
(actually this was taken 14 days ago, not much different though)

Todays water parameters

SG: 1.026
pH: 8.4
Cal: 450
Alk: 8.5 - 8.7dKH
Mag: 1610(bad bucket of TMPR)
PO4: 0.02ppm
NO3: 2ppm
Amo: 0
Nitrite: 0
Temp: Somewhere between 76F and 81F deg. Four thermometers all with different readings.
Finnex heater set at 79 deg.

Last water change was 9 days ago. 10% WC performed at 3 gallons.

Tank peripherals

JBJ RL 30
Aquamaxx HOB-1
Chinese 165w WIFI LED
2x Jebao RW-4 with Aqualink S1 controller
2x Finnex 100w heaters with controllers
Jebao DC3000 return pump w/ controller
Hydor Smart ATO w/ Avast peristaltic pump and reservoir

Dosing

3ml KNO3 'stump remover' once every 3 days

Filtration

Stock media basket
Sponge
Matrix
Skimmer


Conclusion

I need a cure. The tank is 8 months old now. The golden algae is still thriving. I apologize if I missed some information. Please ask me anything.

I want to give thanks to @twilliard , @brandon429 , @Russ265 , @saltyfilmfolks and anyone else that I've forgotten.

This is how to remove it.
The most effective route and sure fire way to getting rid of chrysos is to have GFO, toothbrush, and a canister filter(is best option). If you don't have a canister filter, switching filter socks or floss, can work too.
Also keep in mind that after adding GFO and midway through 24 hours, you need to check alkalinity. You'll be adding full amount of GFO for recommended tank size and alkalinity will drop a little more than normal. Remember and record times to test dkh before and during GFO.

Day 1
  • First thing, scrub rocks with a toothbrush while filtering with canister or floss. Remember to check floss or sock for clogging. Make sure you get as much out as possible. Wait till tank clears.
  • Perform black out. (ie: cardboard, trashbags, no light, etc)
  • Add recommended amount of GFO for tank size to overflow or reactor. Start 24 hour timer.
Day 2
  • First thing, check alkalinity if you haven't.
  • Prepare to turn GFO off.
Day 3
  • Or 72 hours later, remove black out procedures.
  • Slowly acclimate the lighting back to normal to reduce stress.
  • Your snails should start eating what's left.
This route is what worked for me with coral in the tank.
 
Never tried it. Vibrant more or less reduces nutrients. But if nutrients are locked in the rocks(which is where the algae is growing) vibrant isn't going to touch it. Remember, chrysophytes have a silica based armour.
Got it. I still think vibrant isn't working on just nutints. I think It's directly attacking the algae somehow. Plenty of time to debate that later. Lol. (I have some bubble algae screaming to be nuked)
Thanks for identifying it. What type of snails should i get?

A good diverse mix of grazers. I'm a big fan of turbo snails.
 
Thanks for the help. i have asked many people and no one know what it was. just ordered the GFO. will try the 3 step process this weekend.
You messaged me back in March about this. Did it not work?
 
i just went back and looked at my messages. i only scrubbed and did a water change. knocked it back a bit. but i have many more corals now and no nutrients so it has become a big issue now. i am going to follow you steps above fully.
 
All boxed up. Did a 30gallon wc sucking every thing I can. Then tooth brushed as much as i could. Got the gfo online.

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So far so good. Only thing I did different is keep my gfo running. Thanks for the help.
 

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