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You've got dinos
Quit feeding the dino so much extra nutrients. Cut you feedings to 1/3rd and do weekly water changes. In 6 weeks it should starve out
You start dosing a bunch live bacteria crap, you'll crash your ecosystem
Its a 4-pronged approach for me. Dinos are photosynthetic.It amazes me how there is so much conflicting advice in reefing.
Everywhere else, people recommend stopping water changes and increase nutrients.
Not saying you’re wrong, just that it’s conflicting to what I’ve read elsewhere.
My nitrate has always been rock solid at 25 and Phosphate stays .02-.06I’d get a scope see what you have
raise po4 and nitrate
might need a uv depending what sort you have
dont do water changes
i beat big A dosing water glass
dose phytoplankton
you need to out compete the Dino
How did you beat Amphidinium? Any pictures?I beat Amphidinium as soon as that went ostreopsis taken over straight away,I’m still battling it and to me seems harder to get rid off,
it went a few weeks back and just returned again so I have had to put UV back in the tank
Phyto is a great way. Adding pods also helps a ton. I like Reef Nutrition for both. Find a LFS that carries them.I’ve never dosed phytoplankton. Is there a brand name product or do most culture their own?
My own experience fighting dinos on multiple occasions is PO4 is more important than NO3. Get PO4 to .1 at a minimum and hold there for weeks.
Raising temp to 83 can help as well but do so slowly and carefully.
If it is indeed ostreopsis, a UV sterilizer will knock it back super quick.
Amphidinium is the bad one. Silicate dosing is about the only thing I've heard of working long term
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You've got dinos
Quit feeding the dino so much extra nutrients. Cut you feedings to 1/3rd and do weekly water changes. In 6 weeks it should starve out
You start dosing a bunch live bacteria crap, you'll crash your ecosystem
It won't. I dosed both during my fight against amph dino and still dose MB7 weekly. I would say you need to raise your phosphate to .07 min to .1. A level as low as .02 could be the testing variance and you could be bottomed out at zero. Phyto and pods have done the most against my dinos. A UV is best for ostreopsis, the really stringy one. And definitely get better scope pictures, need 400x minimum to diagnose what is on the sand.How would dosing Microbacter 7 or Dr. Tim’s crash an ecosystem?
It won't. I dosed both during my fight against amph dino and still dose MB7 weekly. I would say you need to raise your phosphate to .07 min to .1. A level as low as .02 could be the testing variance and you could be bottomed out at zero. Phyto and pods have done the most against my dinos. A UV is best for ostreopsis, the really stringy one. And definitely get better scope pictures, need 400x minimum to diagnose what is on the sand.
Thanks for sharing your experience.
How do you think raising PO4 to .1 helped?
The only way I can think that this would work is if I’m raising PO4 for the purpose of adding additional competition to the Dino such as chaeto or another form of macro algae. The algae would then outcompete the Dino.
The part that I’m stumbling on is how does this idea work if I’m keeping nutrients elevated? Since there is always going to be nutrients in my system, why does boosting PO4 even more to feed algae outcompete Dino? If there are always nutrients there, why does algae win? It seems both would still coexist unless nutrients fell to zero, which I don’t want (starve acros).

