The fluc thread in the nuisance algae forum - stickied at the top- is about 700 pages of wiping out the initial target then the keepers have dinos or cyano for two years unbeatable. flip through the jobs, read the outcomes
fluc has a place in managing green plant invasions/regardless of the genus at hand but if you don’t want a tradeoff invasion you need to wield it differently than the masses do which comprise that giant readable thread
You would clean the tank first completely
have no plants in the tank
then use fluc as growback prevention not as plant remover, thats now a different plan than what the masses do
the cause of your issue isn’t water params it’s entirely too bright + white light for that setup
once the tank is cleaned and you apply a half dose of fluc as growback prevention, drop your light power to half its current power and get those whites off, use blues.
as the bryopsis regrows you’d physically remove it and keep the fluc steady, don’t increase it in response
what increases in response to your growback is your physical cleaning, everything else holds steady. By starting off with all dry rocks vs any live rock, this is the hassle selected in order to turn that tank into live rocks over the next three years, white rock commands six times the physical intervention discipline to control the direction of the tank.
I dont mean stick a siphon hose in the tank to clean it
am talking real true surgical cleaning. Get that stuff out of your system now, good job starting early.
a rip clean is a way of deep cleaning we’ve done several times on the forum - it’s a way of taking apart your tank to clean it without recycling it. When the tank is empty you’d scrape the algae off the glass walls. When it’s apart you’d use a knife not a brush to debride and dislodge the algae from the rocks
the tap water rinse of the sandbed will likely zap the growths off the substrate
there isn’t anything in the tank so a rip clean will be easy.
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