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michael.cser20
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Did it end up going away with time?
Algae taking over
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michael.cser20
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How?
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michael.cser20
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I understand that's why I waited 2 months still I decided to post. I run carbon rox too and I change my filter socks every 2 days. But it just keeps getting worse.
Every time I have had an issue I increase my GFO use and than scale back it's use depending on the amount of algae I see. Been keeping my tanks this way for several years. I never test for phosphates or nitrates. I do have a large skimmer and I do 2.5 gallon water changes daily RO water.
what species of algae has this been identified as
wonder if anyone ever tried vibrant on this type. sure would make things easier if a water additive zap would work vs changing the nutrient balances in the tank. I like to leave my nutrient balances at what corals command then handle all the algae separately and independently of what the corals enjoy
seen a lot of bleaching and lost acro events by doing catchup nutrient binding
wonder if anyone ever tried vibrant on this type. sure would make things easier if a water additive zap would work vs changing the nutrient balances in the tank. I like to leave my nutrient balances at what corals command then handle all the algae separately and independently of what the corals enjoy
seen a lot of bleaching and lost acro events by doing catchup nutrient binding
John Lohsr
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I totally agree with cumbeje I upgrade my tank from a 40 to a 90. I got 50 pounds of set rock and cured it for 8 weeks with some live rubble rock from my tank. Tested weekly and did 59% water changes till I know if was cured and cycled. When I added it to my new tank got the brown algae also.
Callok
Community Member
Algae outbreaks seem to be part of normal tank cycling but on the order of months-years not weeks. I went through a bad infestations of diatoms, a year later had so much bubble algae it was drowning out the corals. Now it seems that hair algae is the main culprit despite zero N03 and P04 of 0.04.
There has been a lot of positive feed back on bacterial based algae cleaners. Although I try and add very additives to my tank, I just ordered a bottle of vibrant.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/vibrant-liquid-aquarium-cleaner-discussion-thread.271428/
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michael.cser20
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OP, you need A super fuge!
Or just the biggest fuge with the brightest grow light you can fit over it.
I would like one but I don't have any room my stand is packed to the brim lol
Hans-Werner
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I had an algae outbreak that looked the same. Under the microscope I identified it as chrysophyceae (golden algae). This relatively firm biofilms could be one of the relatively rare cases where it is in fact golden algae. I think in most cases the much softer slime coats of dinoflagellates are misidentified as golden algae.
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michael.cser20
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concur its chrysophytes. this and many other similar invaders are given better survival chances by the modes we're trained to default to for tank invasions: do nothing while acting on the target indirectly via the water.
only the opposite boosts up your cure time:
treat the tank for your target by your chosen method only when the tank is in the noninvaded condition because the keeper full cleaned out the tank.
that work element changes the outcomes greatly. whatever we're doing to the water is acting as growback prevention only, not as full on kill + biomass rotting in the tank in partial states of decay and with many cells still living.
if you will hand siphon, take apart and clean that tank fully and then act you have way better chances of winning. possible cheats are:
peroxide has good history
UV is really indicated for this type of battle. reeferfox's chryso thread is big and has alternate treatments too. they should all be worked only in the forced clean less biomass condition for optimum results.
only the opposite boosts up your cure time:
treat the tank for your target by your chosen method only when the tank is in the noninvaded condition because the keeper full cleaned out the tank.
that work element changes the outcomes greatly. whatever we're doing to the water is acting as growback prevention only, not as full on kill + biomass rotting in the tank in partial states of decay and with many cells still living.
if you will hand siphon, take apart and clean that tank fully and then act you have way better chances of winning. possible cheats are:
peroxide has good history
UV is really indicated for this type of battle. reeferfox's chryso thread is big and has alternate treatments too. they should all be worked only in the forced clean less biomass condition for optimum results.
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