Algae trouble with new nano tank

[Snot Otter]

Hi! I'm relatively new to the hobby and this forum.

A few weeks ago, I started noticing brown algae spreading across the surface of the sand. The algae has worsened since then but tends to disappear at night before returning during the day with the lights on. The algae is spreading to the glass, rocks, and random flow generator. My obvious concern is dinos, but hopefully what I'm seeing is diatoms (or even cyano). My tank (a Fluval Evo 13.5) is about four months old, and green algae is just now appearing. Inhabitants include two clown fish, one emerald crab, one blood-red fire shrimp, and one nassarius snail. They eat like pigs and look healthy. Oddly, about a month before the algae outbreak, I lost two trochus snails and one other nassarius, but my tank was clean, probably too clean, so I think they may have starved to death. My parameters, listed below, are pretty good, though the ratio of nitrate to phosphate could be better. I tried a three-day blackout and did not feed during that time, but the brown algae returned after a few days. I've increased flow to eliminate dead spots, which seems to be helping, and started dosing phytoplankton after introducing copepods. Also, I stir the sand regularly and dust the rocks with a baster almost daily. I run mostly blue lights (AI Prime HD 16) for about nine hours a day, ramping up in the morning and down in the evening. I feed TDO pellets 2-3 times a week, with the occasional algae disc thrown in, and do a 30% water change each Sunday. My next goal is to increase CUC numbers and add frags, preferably zoas or GSP. I would appreciate any help, guidance, or insight you can offer.

In-tank Chamber One:
Sponge (changed twice a week)
Poly-Filter (changed every 3-4 weeks), and Chemi-pure Blue and Phosguard as needed
Biomedia (washed in dirty water once a month but not all at once)

In-tank Chamber Two:
Biomedia

Chamber Three:
Syncra Silent 0.5
Heater
Temperature probe

Parameters:
Temperature - 79 degrees
Salinity - 1.024
pH - 8.0
Ammonia - 0
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - 1.4 ppm
Phosphate - 0.04 ppm
RODI TDS - 0



Thanks!

 

[vetteguy53081]

I would like to see close up pics under white lights to confirm but early guess is diatoms which reacts this way to light
Diatoms often associated with silicates and newer sand can come from tap water, expired RODI resin and even over feeding
Turning off white lights for about 3 days often helps or the the amount of white light hours reduced
Siphon as needed and blow loose with a turkey baster before siphoning
Snails such as nassarius, astrea, trochus and cerith will help
Is tank at or near a window?
What is your phosphate level?
Are you using tap water from the faucet or RODI water?

 

[Snot Otter]

I would like to see close up pics under white lights to confirm but early guess is diatoms which reacts this way to light
Diatoms often associated with silicates and newer sand can come from tap water, expired RODI resin and even over feeding
Turning off white lights for about 3 days often helps or the the amount of white light hours reduced
Siphon as needed and blow loose with a turkey baster before siphoning
Snails such as nassarius, astrea, trochus and cerith will help
Is tank at or near a window?
What is your phosphate level?
Are you using tap water from the faucet or RODI water?

I'll try to get a few closeups under white lights this evening - or did you mean on the microscopic level? I don't own a microscope yet.
My tank is next to a mirror, and there's a window across the room, but the blinds are usually shut, so very little light gets in.
My phosphate is 0.04 ppm, and I use RODI water with a TDS of 0.
Thanks!

 

[vetteguy53081]

I'll try to get a few closeups under white lights this evening - or did you mean on the microscopic level? I don't own a microscope yet.
My tank is next to a mirror, and there's a window across the room, but the blinds are usually shut, so very little light gets in.
My phosphate is 0.04 ppm, and I use RODI water with a TDS of 0.
Thanks!

Youd be surprised at the power of sun UV and its ability to penetrate blinds-shades-curtains.
To futher touch on diatoms now that im off work, diatoms look ugly but in most cases they are harmless so the key is to not panic when they appear. Diatoms feed mainly off of silicates but also consume dissolved organic compounds, phosphate and nitrates. Unfiltered tap water can contain silicates and is a good way to jump start a bloom if you use it to mix salt or to replace water that evaporated from the tank. The best way to prevent this from happening is to filter water through a RODI unit, although you can still get a diatom bloom when using RODI if the cartridge that removes silicates expires.
Diatoms are typically harmless to a captive reef and can be beaten once their food source expires. Once you gain control of the source, the outbreak should last a couple of weeks so just be patient and it will pass. For major outbreaks you may want to consider the three day blackout. Diatoms are easily wiped from the glass with a mag float, a turkey baster or a toothbrush can access other areas of the tank. Be prepared for them to re-establish themselves quickly, they are likely to be able to resettle and have exponential growth rates.
To prevent their return, practice good aquarium husbandry by doing regular water changes, keep the substrate clean, don’t overfeed the fish, ensure your skimmer is running at an optimal level and rinse out filter socks and sponges on a regular basis.

 

[Snot Otter]

Thanks for advice, vetteguy!

 

[Snot Otter]

Youd be surprised at the power of sun UV and its ability to penetrate blinds-shades-curtains.
To futher touch on diatoms now that im off work, diatoms look ugly but in most cases they are harmless so the key is to not panic when they appear. Diatoms feed mainly off of silicates but also consume dissolved organic compounds, phosphate and nitrates. Unfiltered tap water can contain silicates and is a good way to jump start a bloom if you use it to mix salt or to replace water that evaporated from the tank. The best way to prevent this from happening is to filter water through a RODI unit, although you can still get a diatom bloom when using RODI if the cartridge that removes silicates expires.
Diatoms are typically harmless to a captive reef and can be beaten once their food source expires. Once you gain control of the source, the outbreak should last a couple of weeks so just be patient and it will pass. For major outbreaks you may want to consider the three day blackout. Diatoms are easily wiped from the glass with a mag float, a turkey baster or a toothbrush can access other areas of the tank. Be prepared for them to re-establish themselves quickly, they are likely to be able to resettle and have exponential growth rates.
To prevent their return, practice good aquarium husbandry by doing regular water changes, keep the substrate clean, don’t overfeed the fish, ensure your skimmer is running at an optimal level and rinse out filter socks and sponges on a regular basis.

Hey vetteguy - would you mind taking a look at the pictures below? Unfortunately, it certainly looks like dinos and something else to me. Under the microscope, nothing appears to be moving. I've been dosing phytoplankton. Some kind of green algae is starting to take over the rocks, and the sand has brown spots.
What do you think?

Parameters:
Temperature - 79 degrees
Salinity - 1.024
pH - 8.0
Ammonia - 0
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - fluctuating between 0.7 and 1.7 ppm, but it did bottom out at 0 for a couple of days several weeks ago
Phosphate - fluctuating between 0.03 and 0.05 ppm
RODI TDS - 0

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hey vetteguy - would you mind taking a look at the pictures below? Unfortunately, it certainly looks like dinos and something else to me. Under the microscope, nothing appears to be moving. I've been dosing phytoplankton. Some kind of green algae is starting to take over the rocks, and the sand has brown spots.
What do you think?

Parameters:
Temperature - 79 degrees
Salinity - 1.024
pH - 8.0
Ammonia - 0
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - fluctuating between 0.07 and 1.7 ppm, but it did bottom out at 0 for a couple of days several weeks ago
Phosphate - fluctuating between 0.03 and 0.05 ppm
RODI TDS - 0

I see Dino and small remnants of cyano are

 

[Snot Otter]

Should I take immediate action to combat the dinos?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Should I take immediate action to combat the dinos?

By all means. Start with blowing substance loose with a turkey baster and net/siphon up the matter and turn off white lights or better yet all lights for 5 days
Add 1.5ml of liquid bacteria such as micro bacter 7 during the day per 10 gallons.
At night add 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons to the dump
Cease adding coral food and nopox during this time which is fuel for Dino
Empty skimmer cup daily and clean filters daily
Say 6 you can slowly ramp up lighting over a few days

 

[Snot Otter]

Can I dose hydrogen peroxide for more than five days without harming my fish and inverts? I don't have any corals yet.

 

[kred47]

By all means. Start with blowing substance loose with a turkey baster and net/siphon up the matter and turn off white lights or better yet all lights for 5 days
Add 1.5ml of liquid bacteria such as micro bacter 7 during the day per 10 gallons.
At night add 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons to the dump
Cease adding coral food and nopox during this time which is fuel for Dino
Empty skimmer cup daily and clean filters daily
Say 6 you can slowly ramp up lighting over a few days

I’m no expert by any means, but I always thought Dinos out-compete beneficial bacteria in the absence of nutrients and that cause a bloom of them in low nutrient tanks. I was told coral food such as reef roids is high in phosphate and that I should feed reef roids more regularly to raise the phosphates in the system and thus provide more nutrients for the beneficial bacteria. This worked for me about a month ago during a Dino bloom, just now I have a massive red cyano bloom from the excess nutrients

 

[vetteguy53081]

I’m no expert by any means, but I always thought Dinos out-compete beneficial bacteria in the absence of nutrients and that cause a bloom of them in low nutrient tanks. I was told coral food such as reef roids is high in phosphate and that I should feed reef roids more regularly to raise the phosphates in the system and thus provide more nutrients for the beneficial bacteria. This worked for me about a month ago during a Dino bloom, just now I have a massive red cyano bloom from the excess nutrients

Bacteria outcompetes Dino
You’ll already have low nutrients with Dino
Being a flagellate, it favors and is fueled by light

 

[trsmith18]

By all means. Start with blowing substance loose with a turkey baster and net/siphon up the matter and turn off white lights or better yet all lights for 5 days
Add 1.5ml of liquid bacteria such as micro bacter 7 during the day per 10 gallons.
At night add 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons to the dump
Cease adding coral food and nopox during this time which is fuel for Dino
Empty skimmer cup daily and clean filters daily
Say 6 you can slowly ramp up lighting over a few days

any issue dosing hydrogen peroxide if you have corals?

 

[vetteguy53081]

I’m no expert by any means, but I always thought Dinos out-compete beneficial bacteria in the absence of nutrients and that cause a bloom of them in low nutrient tanks. I was told coral food such as reef roids is high in phosphate and that I should feed reef roids more regularly to raise the phosphates in the system and thus provide more nutrients for the beneficial bacteria. This worked for me about a month ago during a Dino bloom, just now I have a massive red cyano bloom from the excess nutrients

Reef roids and nopox are fuel/food for Dino
While it can raise phosphate, it also has planktonic elements in it

 

[vetteguy53081]

any issue dosing hydrogen peroxide if you have corals?

No as it is mainly water