Algea id help please

[xiaoyuliang]

Could anyone help ID what are those? It’s from a area that algea form like a huge web and hold a large amount of sand when I suck them up. Also got some pizza diatom at the same region. They are not moving under the scope tho( first four photo)

And from a another area that the sand is covered with brown stuff, they are not webbed together and could be easily suck up just at that point by turkey Baster . I saw some fast moving organisms under the scope( last video and the following two photos)

Thank you so much for help in advance!!!

 

[vetteguy53081]

Lighting not helping but appears to be diatom and Dino combination
Prepare by starting with a water change and blow this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles. Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15% IF you have light dependant corals) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX

 

[xiaoyuliang]

Lighting not helping but appears to be diatom and Dino combination
Prepare by starting with a water change and blow this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles. Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15% IF you have light dependant corals) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX

Thank you so much sir! I already did the water change part and remove the stuff on the sand bed. But they start to come back even after a day. I do have a bird nest and a red Digi, two torches and a hammer but they don't look great so far and I guess I already lost them? I already turned off the white, I guess I could turn down the blue too? My major conflict is whether I need to increase phosphate or decrease? Currently at 0.04, don't have any phospho-decreasing reagent so far.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Thank you so much sir! I already did the water change part and remove the stuff on the sand bed. But they start to come back even after a day. I do have a bird nest and a red Digi, two torches and a hammer but they don't look great so far and I guess I already lost them? I already turned off the white, I guess I could turn down the blue too? My major conflict is whether I need to increase phosphate or decrease? Currently at 0.04, don't have any phospho-decreasing reagent so far.

Phos ok. You must turn down all lights and for coral, you can give them 10-15% blue. Dino is photosynthetic and requires light to survive. Take away the light- you take away their energy and they start to die off.

 

[xiaoyuliang]

Phos ok. You must turn down all lights and for coral, you can give them 10-15% blue. Dino is photosynthetic and requires light to survive. Take away the light- you take away their energy and they start to die off.

Hi boss I just took a photo with white light on and I really don’t think they are Dino now, what do you think they are?

 

[saltyhog]

Your microscopic pictures look like possible Prorocentrum and some diatoms. Before doing anything I would try to get some better microscope pictures (better focus and work on the lighting). Collect the specimen by scooping up about a tablespoon of the dirty looking sand and keep just enough water to cover it in a small container (about the size of a prescription bottle). Shake it well and pull off a little of the dirty water with a pipette. One or two drops on a slide, add cover slip.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hi boss I just took a photo with white light on and I really don’t think they are Dino now, what do you think they are?

Pictures say a thousand words. Its Cyano .
Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations go haywire. Just like when you eat too much sugar and your waistline starts to bloom, the same happens in your tank when concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.