I've had some weird variables -- there was metal in the tank because I bought it used and didn't know better yet (copper pipe on the return), there was a die-off of a bunch of snails and a couple of crabs (which either arrived dead or died instantly upon hitting the tank -- see the afore-mentioned copper), and I'm using a Home Depot RODI unit, which I'll be replacing with a 7-stage BRS unit next week.
I've got some very dark Cuprisorb from pulling the copper out as well.
I'm not impatient or anything, I'd like to get as many dumb mistakes as possible out of the way before I add anything else alive -- if it takes me 4 months to get everything dialed in and stable I'm OK with that, I'm just trying to learn as much as I can up front.
What are you using as a way to measure the salinity in your water? If you have to much salt in your system those other things will be high. But yea, get some real test kits.
I have a refractometer, and have been sticking around 1.025-1.027. I'm working on my lids for the sump and tank to dial in the evaporation to the point that the ATO keeps it as stable as possible.
In general, pH and alkalinity are not high during cycling, unless you are adding large amounts of ammonia as NH3.
I was using flake food to add ammonia at the beginning, but the CUC die-off drove it up over 4ppm for a while. There's definitely no ammonia in my RODI water (or tap water, for that matter).
It's been back down to "warning" level on my Seachem badge for at least a month now, but refuses to turn yellow. I've also verified the testing with Salifert ammonia tests. Meanwhile, my QT has been able to burn through 2ppm ammonia overnight for weeks.
Patience -> learning -> repeat
