Alk calc and mag

unclepregs

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Hey everyone

Tank is around 6 months old and for some reason my levels are low even though I have about 7 frags of soft coral so I shouldn’t see this kind of low levels.

Alk 6.1

Calc 340

Mag 1080.

Simple system with just filter floss in an AIO 40 long.

Should I dose all three elements to bring it back up or should 2 or 3 15 gallon water changes over the week bring it back to normal and should stay stable? 15 gallons would be about a 50% water change. Also don’t want to bottom out nitrates or phosphates but I’m just curious why my levels have gotten so low to begin with. Any advice would be extremely helpful.
 
salinity is 1.025 and it’s from a refractometer. Local LFS even double checked all parameters and got what I got. A little confused.
 
Make sure your refractometer is well calibrated.
If you don't have calibration fluid, you can mix salt by the instructions to make a fresh 1.025 batch and measure it, though of course - that moves the problem to the accuracy of your weight.

It may also be coraline growing on your rocks and glass, which would uptake all 3.
Do you have any water change routine?
 
Make sure your refractometer is well calibrated.
If you don't have calibration fluid, you can mix salt by the instructions to make a fresh 1.025 batch and measure it, though of course - that moves the problem to the accuracy of your weight.

It may also be coraline growing on your rocks and glass, which would uptake all 3.
Do you have any water change routine?
I’m not really seeing coraline just yet but maybe a tad bit on my return nozzles.

I’ve calibrated my refrac and rodi water says 0 so I know it’s calibrated. I change out 5 gallons weekly out of 31 total gallons.
 
Randy can probably correct me if I'm wrong, but from what I remember you can't use RODI water to accurately calibrate a refractometer to then test saltwater, because similarly to PH probe calibration, you want the standard you're calibrating with to be as close to the target - 35ppt, rather than 0 ppt.

I'm also doubtful that a weekly water change of 5g would result in such low parameters, which further leads me to believe your salinity may indeed be lower than you think it is.
 
I’m not really seeing coraline just yet but maybe a tad bit on my return nozzles.

I’ve calibrated my refrac and rodi water says 0 so I know it’s calibrated. I change out 5 gallons weekly out of 31 total gallons.
Unless you are using a refractometer designed for seawater rather than brine, you cannot use RODI water to calibrate it.

You need to use calibration solution which can be made using table salt and RODI water.

Given all your parameters are measuring low, I agree that it is most likely that you have low salinity.
 
So I might have confused you guys but I did use refracto juice to make sure it was still in calibration and it was. Also in regards to GBROADBRIDGE it is a BRS seawater refrac.

Salinity is golden in the tank.
 
Alright, if so than it might actually be your salt.
Make a fresh mix of saltwater and test it, see if you're getting the expected values written on the package.

I never encountered it myself, but from what I've read on the forums here - some artificial salts needs a good mixing (of the salt itself, no in water) before using them, otherwise you may get unproportional amounts of elements in each batch you make.
 
Alright, if so than it might actually be your salt.
Make a fresh mix of saltwater and test it, see if you're getting the expected values written on the package.

I never encountered it myself, but from what I've read on the forums here - some artificial salts needs a good mixing (of the salt itself, no in water) before using them, otherwise you may get unproportional amounts of elements in each batch you make.
I haven’t tested the fresh batch in a few months. When I did test it the alk tested to 8 which was what it called for. Using the Red Sea blu bucket. Didn’t test any other parameters at the time. I could check them when I mix my next batch. I don’t believe that to be the issue though which is why I’m confused a little.

Figured either I would need to dose each Param to get the levels right then continue checking them to see if they stabilize. Or do 2 or 3 big water changes to stabilize and then test frequently.
 
Huh Red Sea blue bucket is what I use myself when I can't bring NSW, and it isn't artificial salt, so it shouldn't happen.

Technically speaking, soft corals will consume some trace amounts of Calcium Bicarbonate, but this including just a bit of coraline algae wouldn't amount for more than what a water change would replenish.

I'm a little baffled by this tbh, it makes much more sense that it'll be a salinity problem, or at least a decent amount of consumers.

Maybe others could come up with a better reasoning than me.
 
So I might have confused you guys but I did use refracto juice to make sure it was still in calibration and it was. Also in regards to GBROADBRIDGE it is a BRS seawater refrac.

Salinity is golden in the tank.

I would still suggest that you make a DIY reference and check the salinity against that.

I have little very faith in pre-mixed standards as they can very easily be contaminated or simply change value due to evaporation if not tightly capped.
 
Just get the Milwaukee digital tester. You can get them used for $50. That's the cost of a cheap frag. People that dump hundreds on a booger size frag that is most likely going to die within 3 months but skimp on their components just blows my freaking mind! Make a reference solution and check it once. Mine is +.001 off and had been for 5 years.
 
People that dump hundreds on a booger size frag that is most likely going to die within 3 months but skimp on their components just blows my freaking mind!
Wow, you must be so proud of yourself using “the best most accurate device in the world” to measure salinity, right?

But you’re wrong, because a high quality hydrometer would be more accurate than the Milwuakee you’ve been trying to promote here, which isn’t much different in operation than a manual refractometer and thus is susceptible to the very same issues OP is likely having here.

Even if you were correct (and you’re not), you shouldn’t put down on others and instead suggest a better solution politely, without remarks about the way people choose to spend their money.

Like it or not - that’s my 2 cents.
 
I would still suggest that you make a DIY reference and check the salinity against that.

I have little very faith in pre-mixed standards as they can very easily be contaminated or simply change value due to evaporation if not tightly capped.
What do you mean by DIY reference?
 
Wow, you must be so proud of yourself using “the best most accurate device in the world” to measure salinity, right?

But you’re wrong, because a high quality hydrometer would be more accurate than the Milwuakee you’ve been trying to promote here, which isn’t much different in operation than a manual refractometer and thus is susceptible to the very same issues OP is likely having here.

Even if you were correct (and you’re not), you shouldn’t put down on others and instead suggest a better solution politely, without remarks about the way people choose to spend their money.

Like it or not - that’s my 2 cents.
I mean… I buy hundred dollar frags and this is all I’ve ever used! It’s never let me down haha!
IMG_2516.jpeg
 

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