Alkalinity help

  • Thread starter Thread starter Ej5
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users None

Ej5

New Member
View Badges
Joined
Nov 25, 2021
Messages
18
Reaction score
34
Location
Jewett city
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
How can I fix my alkalinity? I have my dos pumping 15 ml a day in the sump, that's with my trident set to automatically dos if levels go below 785. My alkalinity keeps going down though. Right now it's 7.41. I am dealing with a bubble algae problem right now, so idk if that is making alk dip. All my other parameters are good, so I don't want to just add more alk if it's going to throw the rest off.
 
What are you most current parameters?

  1. What is your salinity and how are you measuring it?
  2. What is the temperature of your tank?
  3. What is your pH reading?
 
I would ask - what is your Ca and Mg? (Could some be precipitating)? What is your pH?
Second - are you sure your Alkalinity readings, and doser is actually correct - and dosing the amount of alkalinity you 'need' (have you double checked your measurements)?
Third - an alkalinity of 7.41 is not 'bad'.
Just to make sure - you're using different numbers - 785 vs 7.41 - so its unclear what your alkalinity is?
 
I would ask - what is your Ca and Mg? (Could some be precipitating)? What is your pH?
Second - are you sure your Alkalinity readings, and doser is actually correct - and dosing the amount of alkalinity you 'need' (have you double checked your measurements)?
Third - an alkalinity of 7.41 is not 'bad'.
Just to make sure - you're using different numbers - 785 vs 7.41 - so its unclear what your alkalinity is?
Sorry it's 7.85. And I just calibrated my dose and trident not to long ago and there both not to old
 
Those seem a little 'off'- especially the Ca? Can I ask what units you're tests are using - and what type?
Screenshot_20220125-124715_APEX Fusion.jpg
 
Just curious - have you double checked (with a second test) - the Ca and Mg? Also - what exactly is in the tank (is there a lot of alkalinity requiring organisms?). Seems like you need more alkalinity and calcium
Dose the ca seem off because of the other readings?
Its just that the Ca seems low - if you're dosing appropriately (its below 'recommended). It at least brings up the possibility of precipitation -ie are the 2 tubes going into your sump widely separated, etc etc.
 
Just curious - have you double checked (with a second test) - the Ca and Mg? Also - what exactly is in the tank (is there a lot of alkalinity requiring organisms?). Seems like you need more alkalinity and calcium

Its just that the Ca seems low - if you're dosing appropriately (its below 'recommended). It at least brings up the possibility of precipitation -ie are the 2 tubes going into your sump widely separated, etc etc.
I have hana checker also. So I'm going to check with those now. In the tank is some leathers, zoes, polys, trumpets, a bubble tip. About 100 pounds of live rock, 60 pounds of sand, and for fish just 2 clowns , a royal grama, a lawnmower blenny, and a saddle puffer. The tubes going in to the sump are in the same spots
 
I also use a Trident, and a couple of weeks ago I sent out an ATI ICP test (I've switched to the Moonshiners Method). The ICP test came back about 50 points lower on CA and 60 points higher on MAG than what my Trident was showing.
It appears that the Trident drifts pretty significantly during the course of using a reagent bottle. I calibration appeared to correct the calcium issue, but magnesium didn't seem to change.
I have another ICP test coming up soon, so I'll see how close they are the second time around.
 
I have hana checker also. So I'm going to check with those now. In the tank is some leathers, zoes, polys, trumpets, a bubble tip. About 100 pounds of live rock, 60 pounds of sand, and for fish just 2 clowns , a royal grama, a lawnmower blenny, and a saddle puffer. The tubes going in to the sump are in the same spots
My hana ca checker reads 496. I don't have another mag checker. I thought I did
 
I also use a Trident, and a couple of weeks ago I sent out an ATI ICP test (I've switched to the Moonshiners Method). The ICP test came back about 50 points lower on CA and 60 points higher on MAG than what my Trident was showing.
It appears that the Trident drifts pretty significantly during the course of using a reagent bottle. I calibration appeared to correct the calcium issue, but magnesium didn't seem to change.
I have another ICP test coming up soon, so I'll see how close they are the second time around.
My ca tested higher
 
I have hana checker also. So I'm going to check with those now. In the tank is some leathers, zoes, polys, trumpets, a bubble tip. About 100 pounds of live rock, 60 pounds of sand, and for fish just 2 clowns , a royal grama, a lawnmower blenny, and a saddle puffer. The tubes going in to the sump are in the same spots
Doesn't seem like much of load to be dosing 2 part. With those creatures you should be able to easily keep up with water changes. You could be consuming alk if your tank is having to deal with a lot of nutrient break down.

I am with @MnFish1 the calcium and alk are out of balance. Seems like the calcium is low.
 
I'm also dealing with bubble algae right now. Could that be why the numbers are off?
 
One thing to note about 2 part, you must be doing regular water changes. It really isn't optional.

There are two other ions that come with the 2 part that most people are not aware of ... sodium and chloride. With the two part you are adding these in. If you are doing it right then the sodium and chloride should stay in balance but even then you will have to deal with the sodium and chloride becoming out of balance with the other elements in the water.

This doesn't happen fast but it is inevitable using 2 part. Water changes are the fastest and easiest way to correct this imbalance. If you are curious the other way is called the Balling method. The trouble is that you can not test at home for sodium and chloride and I have yet to see anyone figure out what range values sodium and chloride should be in.

Food for thought.
 
One thing to note about 2 part, you must be doing regular water changes. It really isn't optional.

There are two other ions that come with the 2 part that most people are not aware of ... sodium and chloride. With the two part you are adding these in. If you are doing it right then the sodium and chloride should stay in balance but even then you will have to deal with the sodium and chloride becoming out of balance with the other elements in the water.

This doesn't happen fast but it is inevitable using 2 part. Water changes are the fastest and easiest way to correct this imbalance. If you are curious the other way is called the Balling method. The trouble is that you can not test at home for sodium and chloride and I have yet to see anyone figure out what range values sodium and chloride should be in.

Food for thought.
I don't do water changes (Reef Moonshiner's method).
My last ICP test shows Sodium at 11825mg/l and Chloride at 20709 mg/l.
ATI recommends that Sodium is at 11665 mg/l and Chloride at 20997 mg/l.
I'd say that I'm pretty darn close to those recommended values. I also dose 2 part.

I want to know how you can say that you need these two numbers to be "in balance", yet you then say nobody has figured out what these values should be.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

New Posts

Back
Top