Am I crazy for thinking MH + t5 ?

[mcarroll]

Gotcha. I was curious how you were using it underwater! What lux readings do you get at the surface of the water?

Just like on the reef....>10,000 lux.

>10,000 is about an overcast day.

100,000 lux is full direct sun.

Corals have had a lo-o-o-o-ng time to get used to that range. As a result, they seem to do well across that range....with the caveat that more light = more stress for them. So yes, they do well across that range, but no it's not a "more is better" thing.

In a nutshell, I would shoot for >30,000 lux peak(s) at the surface. That should not only hit the minimum requirements, but all the other stuff too. If your intentions are to emulate a 10,000K surface reef, then you would want about twice that amount of light.

I never log actually. The only thing I would look for is the max lux. A 50,000 lux meter will limit you if your using high light. And also stop you from playing around outside in the sun (which I highly reccomend). So I do reccomend a 100,000 to 200,000 Lux model.

Milwaukee makes a submersible sensor. $75 or so. There may be others but I haven't found one yet.

Strangely, even though in the pic earlier mine says 50,000 on the scale switch, it doesn't seem to be limited there. Not sure what the limit is.....maybe 100,000 lux.

I don't garden in direct sun where I'd have to measure levels that high, for better and worse, but the meter has been valuable to me inside and out! I definitely have learned to use it more for other things than just reefing! I can keep tropical plants alive inside for once....so I was (e.g.) able to over-winter my pepper plants last year.

 

[Bruce Burnett]

Dana, by way of his classic Advanced Aquarist articles, is the one who convinced me.

Before that – before toasting a tank full of stony corals when I switched to LED – thanks to all the the PAR-bias I ran into while reading, I never even thought about using a lux meter on the tank. ;Facepalm;Facepalm;Facepalm I was an instant advocate. ;Shifty;Smuggrin;Singing

It is ordered will be here Thursday Then I can see close to where I am in amount of light.

 

[mcarroll]

The phone-based meters are painful to use compared to even the most basic handheld. But if you find one that works with your smartphone's light meter (the usual hangup....you will get insane readings if the app isn't calibrated for your sensor) they are still useful and fun to play with while you wait on shipping for the real deal.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Just like on the reef....>10,000 lux.

>10,000 is about an overcast day.

100,000 lux is full direct sun.

Corals have had a lo-o-o-o-ng time to get used to that range. As a result, they seem to do well across that range....with the caveat that more light = more stress for them. So yes, they do well across that range, but no it's not a "more is better" thing.

In a nutshell, I would shoot for >30,000 lux peak(s) at the surface. That should not only hit the minimum requirements, but all the other stuff too. If your intentions are to emulate a 10,000K surface reef, then you would want about twice that amount of light.



Strangely, even though in the pic earlier mine says 50,000 on the scale switch, it doesn't seem to be limited there. Not sure what the limit is.....maybe 100,000 lux.

I don't garden in direct sun where I'd have to measure levels that high, for better and worse, but the meter has been valuable to me inside and out! I definitely have learned to use it more for other things than just reefing! I can keep tropical plants alive inside for once....so I was (e.g.) able to over-winter my pepper plants last year.

I think for folks not used to a light meter. Being able to walk around the house and out side in different weather is pretty eye opening.

Top of the tank at 35000 lux. Where. I'm sitting in the house on a sunny day with the lights on. 425lux.

 

[mcarroll]

I think for folks not used to a light meter. Being able to walk around the house and out side in different weather is pretty eye opening.

Absolutely! It was for me – still is routinely!

 

[pdxmonkeyboy]

i think i have had my question sufficiently answered. i am NOT crazy for wanting a MH and T5 fixture. It seems like for what I am looking to do it seems perfect.

Now I just have to find some decent ballasts. That should be easy, i live in a medical and recreational marijuana state. People practically give you a ballast, hood and bulb when you move here

 

[A. grandis]

i think i have had my question sufficiently answered. i am NOT crazy for wanting a MH and T5 fixture. It seems like for what I am looking to do it seems perfect.

Now I just have to find some decent ballasts. That should be easy, i live in a medical and recreational marijuana state. People practically give you a ballast, hood and bulb when you move here

Make sure you get the right ballast for the bulb you choose.
Free ballast will probably be a junk one...
People can give you more tips about that here.
I don't use halides for at least 15-18 years?! ;Wideyed So I'm not up to date with this.
Would be great if people could chime in with suggestions and experiences in this regard.
Electronic ballasts, of course...
I think I would choose this one, if I could set up another system here:

They run cooler, silently and more lumens per watt.
They also have circuit breaker with a 3 year warranty.
You can use them with the Spectra MH/T5 fixture too.

Grandis.

 

[mcarroll]

Just like on the reef....>10,000 lux.

>10,000 is about an overcast day.

100,000 lux is full direct sun.

@AllSignsPointToFish I goofed on my numbers.

1,000 lux is an overcast day. And yes corals do survive down to levels that low....with a reliable food supply they would even thrive.

10,000 lux is about normal daylight.

100,000 lux is full direct sunlight.

 

[rockskimmerflow]

Make sure you get the right ballast for the bulb you choose.
Free ballast will probably be a junk one...
People can give you more tips about that here.
I don't use halides for at least 15-18 years?! ;Wideyed So I'm not up to date with this.
Would be great if people could chime in with suggestions and experiences in this regard.
Electronic ballasts, of course...
I think I would choose this one, if I could set up another system here:

They run cooler, silently and more lumens per watt.
They also have circuit breaker with a 3 year warranty.
You can use them with the Spectra MH/T5 fixture too.

Grandis.

Electronic Ballasts are great for ease of use and flexibility. I know they tend to underdrive some bulbs, so I do prefer Magnetic HQI ballasts when running 250w DE bulbs or SE 250w Radiums. The magnetic ballasts seem to burn them for a couple months longer and definitely produces a crisper, brighter light. I'm not sure if the good ole magnetics are even readily available these days though. The electronics may be the only choice and I agree that luxcore would be an excellent option.

 

[A. grandis]

Electronic Ballasts are great for ease of use and flexibility. I know they tend to underdrive some bulbs, so I do prefer Magnetic HQI ballasts when running 250w DE bulbs or SE 250w Radiums. The magnetic ballasts seem to burn them for a couple months longer and definitely produces a crisper, brighter light. I'm not sure if the good ole magnetics are even readily available these days though. The electronics may be the only choice and I agree that luxcore would be an excellent option.

So the electronic ballasts save some electricity running cooler, while the old style magnetic ballasts would allow longer life to the bulbs, with the perfect intensity/wattage offered. Can we see the spectrum difference using electronic ballasts as the bulb ages, like we could see with the magnetic ones back in the day?
Grandis.

 

[Murica]

I've asked this question to, and I know this has been talked about on this thread but electricity plus bulb replacement adds up to big bucks over the years, is it still worth it compared to.. Let's say sb lights?

 

[Radman73]

i think i have had my question sufficiently answered. i am NOT crazy for wanting a MH and T5 fixture. It seems like for what I am looking to do it seems perfect.

Now I just have to find some decent ballasts. That should be easy, i live in a medical and recreational marijuana state. People practically give you a ballast, hood and bulb when you move here

Definitely NOT crazy. I was actually set on MH + T5 for my new tank. Turns out my office is the hottest room in the new house though and MH would turn it into a sauna. Opted for Kessil AP700's instead. No disco effect, great shimmer, and great quality light. Different strokes for different folks. Don't understand the LED bashing. MH, T5, and LED are all capable of growing coral and producing good colors. They each have trade offs as well. What's important is finding the technology that is the right fit for you. Seems like you found it!

 

[DSC reef]

I've asked this question to, and I know this has been talked about on this thread but electricity plus bulb replacement adds up to big bucks over the years, is it still worth it compared to.. Let's say sb lights?

It depends on the individual. Me personally, I'm willing to pay the extra to have a tank I work hard for to have the look I want. We all know different lights grow coral, no debate there. I want that halide look and shimmer.

 

[reefwiser]

You will not go wrong using MH and T5 with a SPS tank they love the light and you get no issues that need correcting by the addition of more light. One less issue for you to worry about.

 

[jda]

i think i have had my question sufficiently answered. i am NOT crazy for wanting a MH and T5 fixture. It seems like for what I am looking to do it seems perfect.

Now I just have to find some decent ballasts. That should be easy, i live in a medical and recreational marijuana state. People practically give you a ballast, hood and bulb when you move here

Being a full-on hippie-lettuce-is-legal state in Colorado, the ballasts, hood and bulb that they give you when you move in here are usually 600W HPS or even 1000W. Even the 250W stuff are usually junk. I would recommend a reef quality ballast.

Pick your bulb and then pick the ballast. M80 is a great ballast choice since they run some of the best bulbs quite well - 14K Phoenix (DE), 20K Radium (SE), 10K Hamilton and XM are still great driven on M80 (SE overdriven, but nice color and outstanding growth).

For people with smaller tanks or who think that heat is an issue (it is not if you plan for it), then 150W Halides are great lights... low power with great output, spread and color. In an application where a pair of point-source lights is needed to handle the spread, 150W MH will get the job done with less electricity and usually better coverage. ...they are not for everybody, though... the gold standard 14K Phoenix 150W bulb will only last TWO years and some folks like to change panels more often than this.

 

[mcarroll]

150W Halides are great lights...

Until 150w Radiums went out of production... ;Blackeye;Dead

I loved my 36" dual-150w Coralife fixture.....still have it, in fact. I just don't use it. It blasted Radiums for nearly 5 years over my system though. (Please do not add up the bulbs costs for me.;Stinkyfeet) At first over a 36x12x19H" tank, later over a 36x18x18H". Equally awesome over both.

 

[Jeremy Luke]

Giesemann Spectra here.. 25ow Radiums (overdriven), ATI Blue+ bulbs, Luxcore Ballasts.. Love it. It works well. Previously used LED.

 

[dricc]

Giesemann Spectra here.. 25ow Radiums (overdriven), ATI Blue+ bulbs, Luxcore Ballasts.. Love it. It works well. Previously used LED.

How is it for heat?

 

[bif24701]

Definitely NOT crazy. I was actually set on MH + T5 for my new tank. Turns out my office is the hottest room in the new house though and MH would turn it into a sauna. Opted for Kessil AP700's instead. No disco effect, great shimmer, and great quality light. Different strokes for different folks. Don't understand the LED bashing. MH, T5, and LED are all capable of growing coral and producing good colors. They each have trade offs as well. What's important is finding the technology that is the right fit for you. Seems like you found it!

My AP700 is the best decision I have made with my system. I had MH before and loved them but I got over them real quick once I got my Kessil
I'll never look back. Best looking and performing LED today.

 

[Jeremy Luke]

How is it for heat?

I have no heat issues at all. The fixture is suspended from the ceiling over the tank so heat can't get trapped in a hood. The heaters probably aren't on as much while the halides are on but the temperature of the tank never departs from the 25C - 25.4C range that my Profilux keeps it at. I do not utilize any methods to reduce water temperature.