Am I doing this right? Setting up a QT

scfurse77

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So I have decided to set up a QT tank because I am sick of my fish dying after a couple weeks in the tank.

IMG_1472015687.152780.jpg


It's a basic 10 gallon tank, heater,sponge filter and small HOB filter. And I put an extra return pump in there for extra water movement if I need it.

As of right now I just put brand new water in the QT just mixed up 10 gallons of oceanic salt mix and threw it in the tank and have the temp at the same temp as my DT.

I am not sure if I want to just go ahead and put cupmarine "copper" in this tank right away and make this a copper tank like the LFS does or not. I plan on getting a couple clowns in here first and then maybe another fish or two after the clowns are ready to go.

Can you guys help me out. What am I missing?
 
Looks pretty good. I'd probably put a strainer over that pump intake to prevent fish from getting sucked in. Also, what bio-media is inside the HOB for controlling ammonia?
 
Looks pretty good. I'd probably put a strainer over that pump intake to prevent fish from getting sucked in. Also, what bio-media is inside the HOB for controlling ammonia?

Right now there is a carbon filter in the HOB now. But I know once I put copper in there I'll need to take the carbon out of that filter and just have a basic piece of floss in it. Right? So I have my foam for my other filter sitting in my DT sump right now for bacteria. I'm just not sure if that is necessary or not since I might copper treat the QT. won't copper kill the bacteria anyways? I guess other than a water change I'm not sure how to control the ammonia
 
I would recommend the following:
  1. Use an Ammonia Badge
  2. Have lots of extra sponges for your HOB filter. Lots. (I have 4 total right now, and am thinking I need to up it to 8.) Keep all the extras in the sump of your DT. When you take one out of your QT (because it's dirty, for example), replace it with one from your DT. DO NOT put the dirty one back in your DT - clean it out and let it dry out (I leave mine out for at least a week - often longer - in my 95+F garage). There's likely a simple chemical treatment that could be done to clean them as well...
  3. Get some Prime. It's not a long-term solution, but it can help in a pinch - !!! but NOT if you are using copper !!! (I don't think...)
  4. Get a digital thermometer. I found that the one you've got (which I have as well) didn't always read right. Also:
  5. Just as with your DT, have a plan for equipment failure. You've got dual pumps, so you've got redundant water movement. Do you have another heater on-hand? What would you do if your HOB stops working? Basically; make sure that "just put them in the DT" is not your go-to option if something goes wrong with QT equipment. Because if that's the easiest answer, then you might take it (and get yourself into some long-term trouble).
  6. Don't be afraid to write on the QT with a sharpie - it'll clean off easy enough later, but until then, it's a great way to keep track of what's going on (chemical measures, dosing, etc.). Mark a line where your starting water level is - it'll help you top off every few days.
  7. Get some eggcrate to use as a lid. You can also trim some up and build a quick wall in the middle of the tank if you experience any aggression. Also; useful for building frag racks. Basically, this stuff is the aquarium equivalent of Duct Tape in a lot of ways...
  8. Depending upon the size of fish you're getting, you might want some larger plumbing pieces in there. I use 2x 2" T-junctions in my 10gal QT. Be sure to get the schedule 40 (or 80, if you want to spend more) - the lighter stuff will float. :-\
 
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When I set up my QT tank if I'm going to use copper or other Medz I just use water from the DP! For example if ur fish are dying from ich once you add copper that will start eliminating it! It's worked for me and a few other people that I know! I'm not advising but just informing of what works for me & others using this method! Also the water is cycled PH is same, the only argument you will have is regarding the bacteria. Has far has equipment goes all u need is a filter, some water movement and heater, a cheap led light will do the job. It's only a 10 gallon set up so you won't be adding large or more then 2-3 fish at a time so just keep any eye out for amonnia. Another thing to watch out for make sure the feed are feed ok, sometimes the copper suppresses hunger. Best method that works for me is adding the copper over a period of 5-7 days keeping a eye on how the fish are responding! Remember to check copper levels.
 
won't copper kill the bacteria anyways?

Initial contact with copper will kill some of the bacteria. However, if they are embedded into the bio-media some will survive and quickly repopulate themselves. Bacteria are tough... some strains can even survive exposure to high chlorine levels. :eek:
 
I like to cover the back of my QT tanks also... I think it makes the fish feel safer. Sometimes I cover the sides also. b/c I do so much cleaning of these tanks I just put on permanent backs to my QT tanks.
 
I would be careful with the clowns if you plan to keep in same tank unless it is larger. Usually 2 will make it.
 
QT plan worked great. Fish are happy and healthy. I'll be transferring 2 of the 4 clowns into my DT tomorrow.

Quick breakdown.
-First week ran carbon

-2nd week pulled carbon and started copper

-3rd week added PraziPro

-4th week put carbon back in to pull out the meds.

25% water change about every 5 days. Used HOB filter and Foam Filter. Bought 4 foam filters and seeded them in my tank for a week. And then added a new one every week. My water temp stayed pretty stable around 78.

Thanks for all the tips everyone!!
 
Did you leave your DT fishless for 76 days to get rid of any parasites in the tank?
 
No i didn't but it was close to 60 days with no visible sign of ich.

I don't think you can see ick in a tank. If you went 6o days, why not wait the extra two weeks and be sure? The research shows that ick can stay dormant for up to 72 days without a fish host.
 
I don't think you can see ick in a tank. If you went 6o days, why not wait the extra two weeks and be sure? The research shows that ick can stay dormant for up to 72 days without a fish host.

I meant no visible sign on other fish. The thing with ich is. Even if you go the full 72 days it can come back. It's caused by stress and you can get it even if you run fishless for 500 days. My main reason for the QT was other diseases besides ich.
 

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