Am I screwed?

I’ve done the best I can without removing rock. I have a good bit of hermits, an emerald crab and nassarius snails that I’m thinking may have already cleared them out.
Also, I’ve been trying to raise the nitrates since they’ve been sitting at zero. My chaeto has exploded in the last couple of weeks and it’s working too well. This may be the ticket...
 
Yeah cut back your light cycle significantly -- like by half. Low nutrient tanks moves can lead to dinos. I would dirty it up real quick were I you.

And yeah, as others said, that is what cromis do: kill each other.
 
Maybe try a sea urchin or 2. They are my most effective algae grazers. What test kit are you using for phosphate? I recently had issues with a Salifert phosphate kit that was giving false 0 ppm readings. Ordered a Hanna ulr checker and my Po4 was .26 ppm.
 
Yeah cut back your light cycle significantly -- like by half. Low nutrient tanks moves can lead to dinos. I would dirty it up real quick were I you.

And yeah, as others said, that is what cromis do: kill each other.

the time on, the strength, or both?
 
Maybe try a sea urchin or 2. They are my most effective algae grazers. What test kit are you using for phosphate? I recently had issues with a Salifert phosphate kit that was giving false 0 ppm readings. Ordered a Hanna ulr checker and my Po4 was .26 ppm.
I actually added a long spine urchin yesterday. I’m using API for phosphates.
 
the time on, the strength, or both?

A just dial my Time On back/forth to suit my nutrient load. If I need to move nutrient back up a little quicker, I will harvest some macro too.

In my experience, solving the problems of having too much nutrient are easier to solve for than the problems that can come from a nutrient starved system (like dinos).
 
A just dial my Time On back/forth to suit my nutrient load. If I need to move nutrient back up a little quicker, I will harvest some macro too.

In my experience, solving the problems of having too much nutrient are easier to solve for than the problems that can come from a nutrient starved system (like dinos).
Less light will result in an increased nutrient load?
 
Looks like algae/ good.
Yes clean up crew and liquid vibrant would also help
 
Oh the fuge! I thought you were referencing my DT lights. Makes sense now.
I currently have the light on for only about 8 hours. I’ll knock it down to 4. I started dosing Vibrant because of the outbreak in DT pictured above. I’m expecting the vibrant to start killing the chaeto.. if not completely obliterating it.
 
I am going to second @Hemmdog that you should invest in:

1) Hanna ULR Checker for Phosphorus (don't forget to convert result to phosphates)
2) Red Sea nitrate test kit.

We have so many effective nutrient removal tools at our disposal, it is important to have a solid understanding of our nutrient levels.
 
You need better test kits. Api are useless, honestly.

I honestly feel that API tests are perfect for tank cycling.
If you need accurate numbers then yes other types and brands are more important.
API Ammonia is good to test 1.0 or above.
Completely useless below.
 
I am going to second @Hemmdog that you should invest in:

1) Hanna ULR Checker for Phosphorus (don't forget to convert result to phosphates)
2) Red Sea nitrate test kit.

We have so many effective nutrient removal tools at our disposal, it is important to have a solid understanding of our nutrient levels.
So the API is no good for nitrates as well?
 
Not as accurate as others.

The coloromiters are the way to go however Hanna does not currently have a Nitrate checker.
 

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