Am I winning this battle?

[Mastiffking]

I’m wondering if I am winning this battle with the Dino’s or is it just a false hope. Here is my original post.
Thread 'Dino verification.'
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/dino-verification.1055879/

I did the things recommended by the posters. Did a few days of blackout, siphoned the sand, UV running 24/7. I still have brownish/rust stuff on my sand and a small area of rock. The pictures attached show the current state of things…am I winning the battle?

 

[vetteguy53081]

This is cyano bacteria which emerge when nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high where there are areas with little flow, detritus builds up and becomes a base for cyano. Water changes are important unlike what the perception of not doing one which reduces the organic content that feeds cyano.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with air bubbles which form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it settles as skim-mate. When a protein skimmer has low efficiency or you do not have a suitable size protein skimmer to keep up with the tank, the air bubbles created might be insufficient and can trigger cyano outbreak .
- Use of Aminos which actually feed them.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, yourtank with nutrients is often the cause of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured will act as a breeding ground for this red slime .
- If you don’t change your water regularly, you’ll soon have this red algae. Regular water changes dissolve nutrients that feed cyano which keeps your tank clear
- Using water with nitrates or phosphates is a welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example of po4 and no3 introduction.
- Inadequate water flow is often a chief cause of cyano blooms as slow moving water combined with excessive dissolved nutrients is a welcome mat for red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 3-5 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the 5 days, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.