Ammonia won’t go up?

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Alright, so I’m trying to start my cycle. Picked up some Ammonia substitute. Brand seems to be local. I dosed according to the bottle and after at least 12 hours was only reading 0.5. Dosed another time using the same ammount (so double the amount recommended by bottle) this morning, just tested again and still looks to be 0.5 . Tested using salifert, any ideas??
 
Heres the test.
 

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Ok, so I cycled my tank a bit different and just threw in an uncooked shrimp. During the course of the cycle the high was .022, so I think I would just let that sit for a day or two and just test and watch for the ammonia to start to come down.
 
Do you think I should add nitrifying bacteria now or wait/dose more ammonia?
 
the salifert test kit only measures free (nh3) amonia.
The amonia substitutes added for cycling I believe are an ionized form (nh4) amonia.

Not sure of the math difference because you are probably trying to dose for total amonia (nh3 + nh4) and the salifert is only showing nh3.

I would wait a bit and see if that .5 comes down at that time you should start to see nitrites rise.
 
Ok, wont add more ammonia. Should I add nitrifying bacteria right now?Also is it important to buy a different ammonia kit. I have an API one but heard they arent reliable.
 
Ok, wont add more ammonia. Should I add nitrifying bacteria right now?Also is it important to buy a different ammonia kit. I have an API one but heard they arent reliable.
Yes, add bacteria. The reason to add ammonia is to FEED the bacteria, so adding it without bac (unless you're going for a month long cycle) is a waste.

API is totally fine! Their tests are not as PRECISE as others, but they are accurate when used correctly, and are perfectly good for cycling.
 
You can add nitrifying bacteria if.

The thing with api and salifert is the difference in the amonia they detect. Api detects total amonia (nh3+nh4) salifert detects only free amonia (nh3).

Your .5 on the salifert test will measure much higher using the api because of the additional amonia it detects.

It's not that api is unreliable. It's just that most people don't realize the difference between total amonia (nh3+4) and just free amonia (nh3).
 
Yes, add bacteria. The reason to add ammonia is to FEED the bacteria, so adding it without bac (unless you're going for a month long cycle) is a waste.

API is totally fine! Their tests are not as PRECISE as others, but they are accurate when used correctly, and are perfectly good for cycling.
And you need a nitrate test kit too... (API is fine for this as well, but I always got tired of shaking the darn bottles and test tube, lol!)
 
Alright, going to dose right now!
I have a salifert nest kit for nitrite only, guess I will just use api for nitrate.

(lfs in Canada arent the greatest, maybe it is just where I am though)
 
Alright, going to dose right now!
I have a salifert nest kit for nitrite only, guess I will just use api for nitrate.

(lfs in Canada arent the greatest, maybe it is just where I am though)
You don't really need to test for nitrite but it's not going to hurt anything.
Sometimes there's a clear track of ammonia turning into nitrite and then nitrite into nitrate... but many times you will see little to no nitrite spike and that's ok too.
 
When ammonia and nitrite are 0 am I good to add livestock? Or beat to wait a little longer?
 
When ammonia and nitrite are 0 am I good to add livestock? Or beat to wait a little longer?
Read this...
 
Read this...
Great article
 
@KearlyFries, I added fish when the cycle was complete but only add one or two depending on the size of your tank. For example, I have a 225 that has about 200 gallons of water give it take including the sump rock work sand etc. I added two very small clown fish a watchman goby, and a bicolor blenny two cleaner shrimp and one pistol shrimp, I know that my sound like a lot but it is not in this size of tank. Especially for as small as all the fish are.
Also, what kind of plan are you making for Quarantine, or safety stop for fish acclimation?

what are your plans for nitrate and phosphate control as these things will start algae blooms in new tanks like crazy. Especially if you are turning you lights on full blast.

currently, my light run not higher than 20% (3 Kesseil a360 tuna blue) my t-5’s stay off and my photo period is only 7 hours right now, that was just increased from 4 where is ran for a week or two, and before that was nothing besides the light in the room.

these are just things to thing about, I test twice per week to learn how this tank is going to trend, and I am still setting things up such as adding Cheato to the fuge running that light from midnight until 14:30 over my sump.
The idea there is to get the cheato to consume or uptake the majority of the phosphate and nitrate.
 
The one thing I really need to research right now would be nitrate and phosphate control. Not running any lights currently. I’m planning to grab some chaeto and a small light next time I sm out and stick it in my sump. Are there any other methods you would recommend to control these things?
Probably going to use my current smaller saltwater tank as a qt. Going to treat with copper.

Tank is 73 gallons and I’m thinking adding maybe 2 fish every other month or so, although will be a while before I add fish as I will be travelling a bit this summer and would rather wait until I can monitor it.
 
Oh, you have lots of time, I would not worry about any thing then with your travel plans.

Since you are going to be traveling I dont think I would add anything until you are done traveling. just let the bacteria that you have in the tank do it's thing,

When you decide to add Cheato I like to put in in the sump, let it run on an opposite lighting cycle than the tank, I purchased an H80, I am thinking that it may not be strong enough, so do some research in that area.
 

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