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It looks like the tube in the upper right is measuring some reefer LOLWhat is each tube measuring??
SusHmmm... Almost every one of the OP's threads is an emergency...
Yes the reason because of the ammonia Spike is because clams and food that was in the bottom of the rocks when I was cleaning my tank today I found a bunch of clams and some pieces that weren’t eaten yet. I am guessing that is what messed up my tank? I have a 37 gallon reef tank I put my blue tang and my Picasso triggerfish in there because they weren’t looking so good right now I have a white spotted puffer with a little tang in my 60 gallon and I am doing a 50% water changeYour first concern is the safety of your fish... a large water change is probably your best option.
But we need more information...
How long has your tank been cycled? Really no reason to continue to test for ammonia in an established system... Are you sure your test solutions aren't expired?
How recently did you increase the bioload (i.e. add more fish)?
You said the fish are "acting weird"... What does this mean?
www.reef2reef.com
Looks to be a dark green one, on the right. Dunno what else it could be, other than an ammonia test.![]()
Sustained Ammonia spikes are misreads
The reason you think your reef tank can’t control its ammonia is due to false training from old cycling science. That and you don’t own a seneye on the tank in question: if you did, you wouldn’t ever think your ammonia was out of control...www.reef2reef.com
Applying disease preps like fallow and quarantine are the focus
Posting a pic of your tank will help, it will show plenty of surface area in play like those tanks above had and from your tank pic we can check details like those above in the thread
The test kits won't help, the tank pic and details about how you prep for disease will help
Yellow is 0.
That does make sense!I’m assuming thus;
Blue, nitrite
Yellow , nitrate
Purple, pH
Green, ammonia
Exactly.I just scrolled through OP's history, and Holy crap! OP, what are you doing man??

