Analyzing a Bacterial Method for Dinoflagellates (and cyano?)

[Cruz_Arias]

My before treatment stats:
pH - 8.46
Alk - 9.1 dKH (3.25 Meq/L)
Cal - 380 ppm
NO3 - 5 ppm
PO4 - 0.043 ppm

I wasn't able to start the aeration of the tank tonight. My air pump is too small and can't push the needed air through 3 lines (2 to wooden airstones, 1 to skimmer). So, I'll have to look into a bigger air pump now!

The airline going to the skimmer does not need an air pump... it draws in air via the venturi.

 

[Cruz_Arias]

instead of usinga bubble stone can i leave skimmer cup off. And allow the micro bubbles to flow in to the tank and stir sand to allow dinos to be caught via bubbles and ise a uv sterliser t kill it? What you think of this method?

You don't want to break the water surface... the point of micro-nano bubbling is to increase bubble dwell time and increasing surface area. The smaller the bubbles dwelling in the water column, the better the gas exchange.

 

[Tjm23slo]

My before treatment stats:
pH - 8.46
Alk - 9.1 dKH (3.25 Meq/L)
Cal - 380 ppm
NO3 - 5 ppm
PO4 - 0.043 ppm

I wasn't able to start the aeration of the tank tonight. My air pump is too small and can't push the needed air through 3 lines (2 to wooden airstones, 1 to skimmer). So, I'll have to look into a bigger air pump now!

Can you run a single line to your skimmer no real need to push air to it. This might free up enough force to feed both air blocks. Your only run I g a little air through the blocks to get smaller bubbles. If your last baffle in your sump creates a down draft, the place it an inch above the bottoms of the last baffle before the return pump. This will let the larger bubbles float up and not into the return section.

I made this mistake. Becareful with the dKh to Ph ratio. The regime says put the brakes in at 7.6 or below. That is based on 8.2dKh. If your at 9 your brake point should be higher as you probably have a higher CO2 level based on bacteria bloom.

May first run my dKh floated up to 12 and Ph down to 7.55 before I hit the brakes. Nothing died that I know of. Bur Zoas had a lots of shrinkage. The other runs if this, I had very little issue with Zoas as I learned what to look for and how to counter balance and adjust. I shut my doser off and hand dosed based on testing trying to stay as stable as possible.
I am 8 days post regime and appear to be dino free. Now I work to raise my nutrient levels back up and rebuild a balanced bacteria using Nualgi For diatoms and FaStart-M for a controlled balanced raise in nutrients plus lighter feeding.

 

[scottrotton]

Ive been running this on day 3 currently, but haven’t noticed any difference, no big bacteria bloom yet, I’m using dr Tim’s one and only as ATM isn’t available where i am, rest of the method is the same.

How long before i should start seeing a reduction?

 

[Tjm23slo]

Ive been running this on day 3 currently, but haven’t noticed any difference, no big bacteria bloom yet, I’m using dr Tim’s one and only as ATM isn’t available where i am, rest of the method is the same.

How long before i should start seeing a reduction?

for me it was Day 3 and Day4 when it started. My last run I only had a very light haze As my amphidium count was low as was the debris in my substrate.

 

[scottrotton]

for me it was Day 3 and Day4 when it started. My last run I only had a very light haze As my amphidium count was low as was the debris in my substrate.

Thanks will continue until the end, hopefully ill see something in the next couple of days

 

[CoralClasher]

I'm starting round 2 how important is the hazy water? If I don't get a good haze with the recommended amount of vodka on day two should I use more?

 

[Idoc]

I'm starting round 2 how important is the hazy water? If I don't get a good haze with the recommended amount of vodka on day two should I use more?

I'd just stick to the recipe... your first attempt probably ate up a lot of the debri already so your second attempt will probably be less dramatic... just my guess, though.

 

[Cruz_Arias]

Thanks will continue until the end, hopefully ill see something in the next couple of days

Sometimes, grinding up some pellet food stimulates the bacteria into a "feeding frenzy" and a population increase.

I would say 6 to 7 small Life Spectrum (non antibacterial) food would be good enough...

 

[Cruz_Arias]

I'm starting round 2 how important is the hazy water? If I don't get a good haze with the recommended amount of vodka on day two should I use more?

Sometimes, grinding up some pellet food or flake food stimulates the bacteria enough into a "feeding frenzy" and a population increase.

I would say 6 to 7 small Life Spectrum (non antibacterial) food per 25 gallons would be good enough...

 

[Victoria M]

I do not see a mention of filter socks vs no filter socks. Any preference? And I presume no GAC or GFO?

 

[Cruz_Arias]

I do not see a mention of filter socks vs no filter socks. Any preference? And I presume no GAC or GFO?

Yes, Day 0 you can leave in the filter socks to catch particulates, etc..

Remove all reactors on Day 0 and clean the equipment at this time, including skimmer. Change media and any other filter substrate media, ie. bio pellets also.

 

[Victoria M]

Yes, Day 0 you can leave in the filter socks to catch particulates, etc..

Remove all reactors on Day 0 and clean the equipment at this time, including skimmer. Change media and any other filter substrate media, ie. bio pellets also.

It would seem to me that days you siphon or stir the sand bed that mechanical filtraion would play a positive role in this treatment method. However you say day 0 which is just adding fresh air aeration. What am I missing here?

 

[Cruz_Arias]

It would seem to me that days you siphon or stir the sand bed that mechanical filtraion would play a positive role in this treatment method. However you say day 0 which is just adding fresh air aeration. What am I missing here?

Aeration is important when disturbing the sandbed and doing a deep cleaning of the system.

In the regimen "how to balance and maintain the tank", was part of another write up... you are correct, though. During the bubbling, it's a great time to degas stir up detritus and perform a deep cleaning of the tank.

 

[CoralClasher]

Aeration is important when disturbing the sandbed and doing a deep cleaning of the system.

In the regimen "how to balance and maintain the tank", was part of another write up... you are correct, though. During the bubbling, it's a great time to degas stir up detritus and perform a deep cleaning of the tank.

Where can I find that regimen? This regimen works great and I want to learn how to keep this going.

 

[Cruz_Arias]

Where can I find that regimen? This regimen works great and I want to learn how to keep this going.

https://elegantcorals.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/65232970_1058036854395643_2307032019369984000_n.jpg

 

[CoralClasher]

Sorry I should of said the regimen "how to balance and maintain the tank". I can see the first page of this thread. Thanks again for your help.

 

[Neoalchemist]

Then I'd say, proceed only if you can actively monitor pH or O2 (and maybe Ammonia. I haven't looked at that yet.)
The instructions alone don't guard against unhealthy tank conditions.

Seneye reef monitor would be an excellent tool for anyone attempting this method.

 

[Victoria M]

It would seem to me that days you siphon or stir the sand bed that mechanical filtraion would play a positive role in this treatment method. However you say day 0 which is just adding fresh air aeration. What am I missing here?

Aeration is important when disturbing the sandbed and doing a deep cleaning of the system.

In the regimen "how to balance and maintain the tank", was part of another write up... you are correct, though. During the bubbling, it's a great time to degas stir up detritus and perform a deep cleaning of the tank.

Cruz, we seem to be miscommunicating. I am asking about mechanical filtration during this process. I am thinking a coarse filter sock, changed daily would be of benefit throughout the entire process but especially on the days one disturbs the sandbed.

At any rate I am using coarse filter material at this time, as my finer filter socks overflowed very quickly. I hope they did not take out too many bacteria. The socks turned very brown, I presume it is fine detritus and dinos.

My tank did not get cloudy until day 3 and today is day four. I just turned the skimmer on. It is not over flowing as I thought it would. When I am all done I will share my full tank reaction and results.

 

[Cruz_Arias]

Cruz, we seem to be miscommunicating. I am asking about mechanical filtration during this process. I am thinking a coarse filter sock, changed daily would be of benefit throughout the entire process but especially on the days one disturbs the sandbed.

At any rate I am using coarse filter material at this time, as my finer filter socks overflowed very quickly. I hope they did not take out too many bacteria. The socks turned very brown, I presume it is fine detritus and dinos.

My tank did not get cloudy until day 3 and today is day four. I just turned the skimmer on. It is not over flowing as I thought it would. When I am all done I will share my full tank reaction and results.

Ooh... yes, we don't use filter socks during the regimen at all except for Day 0, where we're determining if we have a low enough co2 concentration before proceeding with the regimen.
Filter socks, regardless how coarse, still tend to pull out bacteria and other particulates. The more particulates the mesh is collecting, the faster the mechanical impaction of the filter media.

The more the collected organics are collected, the finer the particulates the sock can filter out...

It's similar to how yeast is pulled out of beer... the first layer is less dense and allows for finer yeast cells to pass... as the layer increases in thickness. The more tortuous the path of the liquid flow, thus enabling better filtration through a denser filtration media.