Anemone hiding from the light

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cdness

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Why would a GBTA hide from the light? It is having issues, but I move it out into the light and it always tries to get back into the cave away from all light.

I think it is dying, but what can I do to save it...

Parameters:
1.026 salinity
0 Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, phosphate
460 calcium
9.8 alk
1480 mag
78.4 temp
7.8 ph
Under T-5 light...
 
How long have you had it? If it is new he is probly acclimating himself to the conditions. I have some that stay in a crevice away from the light and are doing fine. I would just leave him alone and let him find his happy spot.
 
I have had fresh water and planted tanks for 2 decades, but only have 2 years experience with salt tanks.

Our flower pot anemone originally lived about 4 inches away from a blue LED Stunner strip light for over a year. (We have a glass top on the tank because of the jumping fish and our weak lighting (per anemones and SPS) sits on top of the glass top.)
4 days before the power supply gave out, the flower pot anemone moved 3 inches down onto a vertical face of the live rock. The next night it moved down another 3 inches under the rocks and into the cave.
I'm guessing the LED lighting quality changed dramatically in the week before the power supply finally gave out. From our viewpoint, there was no noticeable change in the light quality during that week. Then the next day the LED strip just never turned on. It took a week to replace the power supply. No issues in the 4 months since then.

You mentioned you have T5. it's very possible your ballast is going out. The critters are a lot more sensitive than we are to changes in the lighting quality they receive in the tanks. Dragging the GBTA back into the light is probably the worst thing you can do to it. Imagine spending the day after you've had a really bad sunburn being back out in the sun all day.

On top of our tank, 4 inches behind the LED strip, we have a NO T5 2 lamp fixture that gets new lamps every 6 to 8 months. Never noticed any changes in anything's growth or behavior as extreme as the way our Flower pot anemone moved during that week. Over the course of the following weeks, it slowly moved from under the cave, out the back entrance, up the back side of the live rock and 2 weeks later it was up at the same level as when it was visible in the front of the tank. This was about 4 months ago. The flower pot anemone seems fine now and has stayed in this location since then.

What amount of T5 light do you have? VHO, HO or just NO? How many bulbs? How new or old are the light bulbs?

How long has the GBTA been in the tank? How far was the GBTA from the light originally?
What kind of issues or behaviors have you noticed from the GBTA? Has it been shrinking and reinflating over the course of several days?
 
Is the mouth closed and and is it staying inflated? If its new to the tank its probably still adjusting and just needs time to settle. Any other changes recently to the tank?
 
Well the nem has no tentacles anymore or very few. It is solid white. The mouth is closed but it is not taking food. The foot remains sticky, but the face seems to have lost all of its stick.

I never thought about the ballasts going bad. It is a 6 lamp IC660 setup 4 feet in length using ATI and UVL lamps...

My wife is extremely attached to this nem so if there is any hope in saving it, I must try...
 
I've seen much improvement with "failure to thrive" anemones using a product called Phycopure Zooxanthellae...especially nems that have bleached due to stress. It's not a miracle cure though and it won't do anything for a nem that's fighting an infection, which is often the case when they start to hide from the light and their tentacles become nubs within a couple days. For those nems, I use a broad spectrum medication called Flagyl. I do not treat them in the display tank. I've both injected my nems with Flagyl as well as soaked them in a Flagyl bath. I don't have a set dosing amount...I've tried different doses with different anemones. Did the tentacles suddenly shrink in one specific area and then eventually shrink all the way around? A brisk flow that pulses and pulls the tentacles upward is key for a struggling nem as well...a little brisker than normal. Sick nems are sluggish to fully inflate, but it's important to get them exchanging water.

It may be too late to save your anemone, which sux because as weird as it may seem I've also grown quite attached to some of mine. But I'd still like to encourage you to pay very close attention to the details of it's demise. Make note of everything. Learn from this. I've learned far more from my nems that failed than the ones that thrived.
 
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I've been successfull with anemones for over 4 years and had them under T5's, MH, and LED's. With good water parrimiters it's usually a lighting issue. If it's sticky try to feed it some brine shrimp. If you can get it to eat that's great but don't try to put food in its mouth. If you get it to eat and in some good light it's chances are good. Don't move it yourself, it knows best and will move where it needs to. Here is a before and after that shows it can be done. Just let it move where it wants and try to target feed.
Before


After


My Anemone Island now, RBTA's & BTA's



Best of luck. I think my anemones are the focal point and have enjoyed them.
 
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Your BTA's are lovely. I've never had one get as large as your RBTA. Do you know the region of origin of that RBTA? It's so beautiful. Your tan BTA is also very nice...so healthy and crisp.

The pictures you posted suggest your tan nem was lacking some zooxanthellae at one point but was still biologically functioning, at least to some degree, well enough. Then, likely due to your good husbandry practices, it gained zooxanthellae and grew stronger. The OP's anemone however, hides from the light and it's tentacles are totally receded. It does not accept food. IMO, it's biological functions are becoming lost. I've been through similar scenarios myself and found it beyond frustrating- so much so that I finally resorted to taking dying nems to a State University that teaches Pre-Vet to have them posted. It was not a marine-based program so the most they could offer was tissue cultures but they seemed as interested as me to figure stuff out. Over the course of several months I had the tissues of several failing anemones cultured at different stages of demise and 100% of the time anaerobic bacteria grew. I then started testing seemingly healthy anemone tissue with consistent negative results. To me, that suggested a few things. The first being either the environment I was keeping my anemones in did not contain enough oxygen or I was not adequately delivering the oxygen to my anemones, (flow). Second, sick anemones- like it or not- must be prompted to inflate and exchange spent water for new oxygen-rich water. And finally, as someone who routinely participates in the diagnoses and treatment of human bacterial infections, I understood the value of prevention, early detection and medicinal intervention with which I've had some success (w/ people and w/nems :o). I also installed UV, which created a separate issue for my sponges but that's another thread.

Clearly, my anemone failures were not the result of ineffective lighting as suggested by most of the Anemone Keepers I consulted. IMO, that assumption is overused and during the course of brainstorming interventions IRL with others having nem issues, IME, it's almost never a lighting issue- especially with BTAs. And notably, when lighting is the issue, IME more often than not the lighting is excessive. The OP is an experienced reefer. Respectfully, it's unlikely his anemone is failing due to poor nutrition or lighting. Except for the new hobbyist who naively places their nem beneath a standard incandescent in an inert unstable environment, IME it's rarely that simple.


I've been successfull with anemones for over 4 years and had them under T5's, MH, and LED's. With good water parrimiters it's usually a lighting issue. If it's sticky try to feed it some brine shrimp. If you can get it to eat that's great but don't try to put food in its mouth. If you get it to eat and in some good light it's chances are good. Don't move it yourself, it knows best and will move where it needs to. Here is a before and after that shows it can be done. Just let it move where it wants and try to target feed.
Before


After


My Anemone Island now, RBTA's & BTA's



Best of luck. I think my anemones are the focal point and have enjoyed them.
 
My anemone did hide but this was the only photo I had. Actually went under a rock for a about a week. Thanks it seems to be everyone's favorite. The RBTA was from a fellow reefer in Mississippi. I think like a 5th generation. It split about three times so far.
 
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I had 2 that did this that I had acquired fairly bleached. It's like they were trying to commit suicide and hide from the light. Needless to say they didn't make it. I learned my lesson and stopped buying "white" BTA's and got a nicely colored rose which is happy and healthy.
 
Anemones from friends/acquaintances are definitely the way to go.

My anemone did hide but this was the only photo I had. Actually went under a rock for a about a week. Thanks it seems to be everyone's favorite. The RBTA was from a fellow reefer in Mississippi. I think like a 5th generation. It split about three times so far.
 
Your BTA's are lovely. I've never had one get as large as your RBTA. Do you know the region of origin of that RBTA? It's so beautiful. Your tan BTA is also very nice...so healthy and crisp.

The pictures you posted suggest your tan nem was lacking some zooxanthellae at one point but was still biologically functioning, at least to some degree, well enough. Then, likely due to your good husbandry practices, it gained zooxanthellae and grew stronger. The OP's anemone however, hides from the light and it's tentacles are totally receded. It does not accept food. IMO, it's biological functions are becoming lost. I've been through similar scenarios myself and found it beyond frustrating- so much so that I finally resorted to taking dying nems to a State University that teaches Pre-Vet to have them posted. It was not a marine-based program so the most they could offer was tissue cultures but they seemed as interested as me to figure stuff out. Over the course of several months I had the tissues of several failing anemones cultured at different stages of demise and 100% of the time anaerobic bacteria grew. I then started testing seemingly healthy anemone tissue with consistent negative results. To me, that suggested a few things. The first being either the environment I was keeping my anemones in did not contain enough oxygen or I was not adequately delivering the oxygen to my anemones, (flow). Second, sick anemones- like it or not- must be prompted to inflate and exchange spent water for new oxygen-rich water. And finally, as someone who routinely participates in the diagnoses and treatment of human bacterial infections, I understood the value of prevention, early detection and medicinal intervention with which I've had some success (w/ people and w/nems :eek:). I also installed UV, which created a separate issue for my sponges but that's another thread.

Clearly, my anemone failures were not the result of ineffective lighting as suggested by most of the Anemone Keepers I consulted. IMO, that assumption is overused and during the course of brainstorming interventions IRL with others having nem issues, IME, it's almost never a lighting issue- especially with BTAs. And notably, when lighting is the issue, IME more often than not the lighting is excessive. The OP is an experienced reefer. Respectfully, it's unlikely his anemone is failing due to poor nutrition or lighting. Except for the new hobbyist who naively places their nem beneath a standard incandescent in an inert unstable environment, IME it's rarely that simple.
First of all I want to apologize if it seems I'm hijacking the OP thread but I just want to say...

Fantastic post and very informative Reeferella. Thanks for taking the time to pass on your knowledge and experience. It gives me hope and ideas for my sebae anemone.

I added it about a month before Christmas and it footed itself between a rock and the sandbed but it could never fully retract to find shelter from the light and would always display shorter plump tentacles at lights on.

I've tried running the lights low and running them higher but that never seemed to make much difference. It has always been sticky to the touch and it has taken food on occasions and I've seen it produce little waste sacks.

It was sold to me as a Malu and is quite bleached. It doesn't appear to have regained any tan colour as of yet.

Today it moved into shade under a rock shelf and I dug it a hole. It appears to have footed itself to the bottom of the glass tank. Hitting it with decent flow as you suggest it isn't being blown from its location and has began to inflate.

This is my first anemone but I think it's looking promising and I want to thank you again for that great information.
 
Why would a GBTA hide from the light? It is having issues, but I move it out into the light and it always tries to get back into the cave away from all light.

I think it is dying, but what can I do to save it...

Parameters:
1.026 salinity
0 Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, phosphate
460 calcium
9.8 alk
1480 mag
78.4 temp
7.8 ph
Under T-5 light...
Light may be too bright.
Mag high and should be 1300
alk should be 8-9
salinity- take to 1.025
PH 8.0-8.3
Moderate water flow

All zero on nitrate and ammonia tells me that youre using API test kit- correct?
API well known for false readings and liely these values are much higher than youre seeing
 

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