Anemone not doing so well, need suggestions please

[Cynful]

I don't think it's water params. Lots say anemone are "very sensitive" but I think it is just that it's hard to get a healthy (especially wild) specimen. Anemones often are collected poorly or get damaged in the supply chain. They look fine for weeks or a couple months and then succumb from that damage. Often they get infected and don't start to look bad until that infection gets the upper hand (which can take a while!). There are antibiotic treatments you can try in a hospital tank. I've not done such a treatment myself so I'm not the guy to ask how, but there are threads about cipro on here and how to use it. Worth a shot

Do you have any other corals in the tank? If everything is sad then I would be more likely to suggest something is systemically wrong (like water params)

No other corals, just fish and cuc. Everything else is fine though.

 

[vetteguy53081]

My clown loves it. I bought her and the nem together. She barely lets the little clown in it so he sleeps under it. She does steal its food though so I have to keep her away after I feed the nem. LOL I am using API but saving to get better ones. I was using them more as a guide in seeing patterns. I keep the temp around 78-80 but maybe it's a little too warm, I'll check it. He's moved twice, I think because of flow but has seemed happy where he is now. Lights, I don't know if too bright or not. Would the four bulbs be too much? I can do just the actinic and not the whites if that's better?

I've been worried that I'm battling cyano and this is happening at the same time. I've been overall feeding less and doing more water changes to try to help.

You may have false readings from the API kit. I would recommend taking a water sample to a trusted LFS that does NOT use API kits and see what readings they come up with.
For the light, One blue and white would be more balanced. As a test persay, turn off white only and see how nem responds after 6hrs or so.
This will also help cyano subside a little as it is photosynthetic. For cyano, it generally occurs when concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high. Skimmer overflow or even your water source are commons causes.
I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

 

[fishguy242]

are you making your own rodi water ? other ?

 

[Cynful]

are you making your own rodi water ? other ?

Yes, I have my own ro/di and tds meter.

 

[Nemguy123]

I’ve never used that light for nems but it may not be enough if your water parameters are good it possibly could be the lights how often do you feed and what do you feed?

 

[Cynful]

I’ve never used that light for nems but it may not be enough if your water parameters are good it possibly could be the lights how often do you feed and what do you feed?

I thought t5 lights were good? It's 4 bulbs. I've been feeding the anemone the same as the fish, a large squirt of frozen mysis/plankton/fish eggs/etc. about every other day. I also add Selcon.

 

[MartinM]

IMO it’s not the light or the food, although PAR readings would be good to have. If it was fine for a few months, and you didn’t change anything, I wouldn’t change anything now. If it doesn’t start to look better in a few days, especially if it’s on an inflating/deflating cycle, it may be time to try an antibiotic treatment. I do not know how LTA anemones are in terms of antibiotic tolerance (maybe a forum search would help), but I’d start with a low dose. I have a protocol here: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/p...reatment-of-s-haddoni-carpet-anemones.888426/

 

[Nemguy123]

I thought t5 lights were good? It's 4 bulbs. I've been feeding the anemone the same as the fish, a large squirt of frozen mysis/plankton/fish eggs/etc. about every other day. I also add Selcon.

They can be good I’ve personally never used them but I’ve seen success here are some pics of my long tentacles I keep them under kessil a 360xs. around 400 par and they do great and have all gotten their zoos back except for one new one. water parameters are wonky. No protein skimmer and only hang on back filter to run the system so tank is definitely dirty and they thrive lol

 

[Duncan62]

I feed it 3 or 4 times a week with a large squirt of mysis/plankton/fish eggs/etc. Is that not enough?

Feeding to much maybe. Seems a lot.

 

[Cynful]

So what reasons would an anemone have a gaping, puffy mouth?

 

[fishguy242]

do you have today pic ?

 

[Nemguy123]

So what reasons would an anemone have a gaping, puffy mouth?

Mouth doesn’t look gaping as in its ill looks like it’s trying to either expel waste or eat what’s in its tentacles a more clear up close shot of its mouth will better help me see it

 

[SudzFD]

My experience is more with bubble tips but I have a couple thoughts/questions based on my experience.

1) was it this color when you got it? It looks bleached out. I often see anemones like this at LFS and when I was a rookie at this I even bought some. They never survived, they were dying before they ever reached my tank. Unfortunately this may be the case here.

2) the mouth looks like it’s relaxing which to me is a sign that it may not be doing well. Let us know if anything comes out of the mouth. the fact the tentacles still look ok is a good thing.

3) I think you have been significantly over feeding this animal. They really don’t need food at all and I have gone months without feeling mine. Most of their energy comes from photosynthesis. I feed mine a small salad shrimp from the freezer section of the grocery store about once every other week.

for now, leave him alone, run carbon, and wait and see. That’s really all that can be done anyway. Sometimes less is more.

 

[Cynful]

Well about the same but he moved and placed himself on the side of a rock where I can't see him as well. My plan is to use only the two 420 actinic bulbs for a week, keep doing water changes and see how it goes. I'll not plan on feeding it specifically unless he gets stuff from my general feeding that falls on it.

@SudzFD It was this color at the store, all the others were white which I knew not to even consider. Plus this clown loved and was already bonded with this one.

Thank you to everyone helping. Mouth hasn't changed much today from what I can see. Here are a few pics I could get:

 

[SudzFD]

Well about the same but he moved and placed himself on the side of a rock where I can't see him as well. My plan is to use only the two 420 actinic bulbs for a week, keep doing water changes and see how it goes. I'll not plan on feeding it specifically unless he gets stuff from my general feeding that falls on it.

@SudzFD It was this color at the store, all the others were white which I knew not to even consider. Plus this clown loved and was already bonded with this one.

Thank you to everyone helping. Mouth hasn't changed much today from what I can see. Here are a few pics I could get:

These photos look good. Unless you have a parameter off I’d consider slowing the water changes. All these things can add stress and change parameters. Stability is key above all else when there is no identified problem.