Anemone
- Thread starter haigyfish
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Tips would be wait another 6 months. Don’t expect them to be hosted by a bubble tip although it’s possible. Don’t force the relationship either. Get a big enough anemone that your clowns won’t kill it if they do take to it. Generally 3 size the size of your clowns while inflated minimum.
Reef Psychology
Active Member
It’s about stability, consistency and aged biological media. BTAs are pretty easy to keep once you have control of your tank‘s temps, salinity levels, pH and a chunk of raw food won’t bother the biological filter. You’ll probably want to feed it once or twice a week and all that waste will need to go somewhere. BTAs can melt pretty quickly if the Right conditions aren’t there. I’ve kept them in 6 month old tanks before, but I wouldn’t recommend it unless you’re pretty good at general reefing.
Can you tell us more about your tank, lighting, which species of clowns you’re keeping, what you have for flow and pumps you’re using? And what your water parameters are looking like.
haigyfish
Well-Known Member
I have 150 w lighting on my 30 gallon tank. I keep it usually at half use right now becuase I only have GSP and it is flourishing as of now. I have the ability to turn up the watt to increase par. I am using a seachem tidal 75 gallon, rated up to 350gph. Alongside with a hyyger wave maker producing approximately 200 gph flow. I have a Wyoming white and a normal ocellaris clown. I do however have a outbreak of bubble algae which my emerald crabs are nipping at. Ph fluctuates between 7.9-8.2 usually always 8.1. Salinity I keep at 1.025 and continually do weekly 6 gallon water changes
Reef Psychology
Active Member
Sounds ok, but the first thing is you’ll need to do is cover the wave maker and hob filter inlets. BTAs are notorious for moving around the tank and getting sucked into filters and pumps. Never used that type of filter before, so I’ll assume you don’t have a sump and rely on manual top off or use a switch in the main tank. You’ll need to keep a close eye on remote switches with a BTA roaming around the tank.
After that, see how you like having to clean sponges and what happens to your nitrate and phosphate levels after a month. If in 30 days you’re ok with the added work and your nitrate and phosphate’s don’t rise (I try to keep mine phos/nitrates below 0.1/20). Id say you might be ready. BTAs can deal with a range of PAR levels and 150w over a 30g seems ok, but you need to start ramping up over the next few weeks so the GSP don’t get shocked. IME the common green ones are less worried about PAR than the more colorful ones. Mine are actually under 180 PAR and doing fine for the last year. Not amazing growth, but still healthy. I feed maybe 1 week. Over the next week or two you should read in the anemone and clownfish forum to see what people are saying.
After that, see how you like having to clean sponges and what happens to your nitrate and phosphate levels after a month. If in 30 days you’re ok with the added work and your nitrate and phosphate’s don’t rise (I try to keep mine phos/nitrates below 0.1/20). Id say you might be ready. BTAs can deal with a range of PAR levels and 150w over a 30g seems ok, but you need to start ramping up over the next few weeks so the GSP don’t get shocked. IME the common green ones are less worried about PAR than the more colorful ones. Mine are actually under 180 PAR and doing fine for the last year. Not amazing growth, but still healthy. I feed maybe 1 week. Over the next week or two you should read in the anemone and clownfish forum to see what people are saying.
