Another algae thread! Input please

[AMEE]

Ok so I’ll start with the picture. I know there’s many threads but every tank can be so different in the way we do things.

My tank is almost a year old. 34 gallon display. In the sump I have a ReefOctopus 110ss and a brs reactor running carbon and gfo. I do 5 gallon water changes weekly and I swap out the media about once a month. I haven’t changed anything if anything I feed less. I feed a small amount of pellets twice a day and reef frenzy a few times a week.

I️ also have a brs 4 stage rodi and I changed the filters about two months ago. I don’t know where my phosphates are but will get a kit soon.

Anyway what am i dealing with and what do you think it’s causing it. I usually vacuum my sand bed specially now.

 

[oscargrumete61]

Looks like a diatoms did you add recently plastic ? Or a new equipment whit that ?

 

[reeferfoxx]

Typically diatoms don't grow when GFO is present. Mainly because of it's ability to absorb silicates, which we all should know, grows diatoms. Once silicates are consumed by diatoms, they disappear. However, considering the use of GFO in general without actually testing phosphates, would result in dinoflagellates. By eliminating nutrients, you inadvertently kill off microorganisms that keep pest algae growth away. With the addition to bio-media, such as seachem or pond matrix, which is really good at reducing nitrates, now we have GFO and bio-media stripping the water column of available nutrients for micro fauna and organisms. Then a skimmer to top off the tank sterilization process.

 

[AMEE]

Typically diatoms don't grow when GFO is present. Mainly because of it's ability to absorb silicates, which we all should know, grows diatoms. Once silicates are consumed by diatoms, they disappear. However, considering the use of GFO in general without actually testing phosphates, would result in dinoflagellates. By eliminating nutrients, you inadvertently kill off microorganisms that keep pest algae growth away. With the addition to bio-media, such as seachem or pond matrix, which is really good at reducing nitrates, now we have GFO and bio-media stripping the water column of available nutrients for micro fauna and organisms. Then a skimmer to top off the tank sterilization process.

That’s great info. What would you advice me? Should I cut back on the gfo and run carbon only? I was thinking of going a more natural way and getting rid of the reactor and trying a small refugium. But the tank size is very limiting.

 

[AMEE]

Looks like a diatoms did you add recently plastic ? Or a new equipment whit that ?

Not things haven’t changed recently. But I did add add dual return nozzles [emoji848]

 

[oscargrumete61]

Not things haven’t changed recently. But I did add add dual return nozzles [emoji848]

Here you go , is that my friend

 

[AMEE]

Here you go , is that my friend

The more that I think about it the more I believe it started shortly after. Should I let things balance out? Idk if to cut back on gfo or add more lol

 

[DeepBlueSomething]

Here you go , is that my friend

I am glad to see a candidate appear through some good question and answer -- now where to go? (Waiting on those with more knowledge than I)

 

[oscargrumete61]

If you have some serit snails they are gonna take care off, if not this will disappear when all the silica is gone

 

[reeferfoxx]

That’s great info. What would you advice me? Should I cut back on the gfo and run carbon only? I was thinking of going a more natural way and getting rid of the reactor and trying a small refugium. But the tank size is very limiting.

Ok, so Dana Riddle wrote this article on GFO and what it removes. Most important but not limited to phosphates, includes silicates, copper, cobalt, etc. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2012/2/chemistry. Also read the part where it shows pH reduction and alkalinity swings.

There is a saying, don't dose what you aren't testing. Same can be said for removing nutrients. We only add export media like gfo, carbon dosing, bio-media because of high levels. If we aren't testing, could we over do it?

First thing to do is get a quality po4 test kit. I use the hanna phosphorus ULR (the ppb one). And Salifert No3 is accurate enough and most reefers use this kit. Once you do that, figure out the limiting factor. If both NO3 and PO4 are at zero, there is a very good chance this is dinos. There is a common trend with dinos and low nutrients. In fact this thread has 72 pages worth of low nutrient issues. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/d...u-tired-of-battling-altogether.293318/page-72

Next best thing to do is to get a positive ID of whats on the sandbed. Amazon sells a toy microscope for $9 or $10 that is adequate enough. Get a picture with your cellphone through the lens to have someone in that thread above ID it for you. Once, it's ID'd you can take action.

In the mean time, to get a head start, remove the GFO and any bio-media or carbon dosing. Just run the skimmer and carbon and let the tank start balancing back out. Get those test kits.

 

[AMEE]

Ok, so Dana Riddle wrote this article on GFO and what it removes. Most important but not limited to phosphates, includes silicates, copper, cobalt, etc. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2012/2/chemistry. Also read the part where it shows pH reduction and alkalinity swings.

There is a saying, don't dose what you aren't testing. Same can be said for removing nutrients. We only add export media like gfo, carbon dosing, bio-media because of high levels. If we aren't testing, could we over do it?

First thing to do is get a quality po4 test kit. I use the hanna phosphorus ULR (the ppb one). And Salifert No3 is accurate enough and most reefers use this kit. Once you do that, figure out the limiting factor. If both NO3 and PO4 are at zero, there is a very good chance this is dinos. There is a common trend with dinos and low nutrients. In fact this thread has 72 pages worth of low nutrient issues. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/d...u-tired-of-battling-altogether.293318/page-72

Next best thing to do is to get a positive ID of whats on the sandbed. Amazon sells a toy microscope for $9 or $10 that is adequate enough. Get a picture with your cellphone through the lens to have someone in that thread above ID it for you. Once, it's ID'd you can take action.

In the mean time, to get a head start, remove the GFO and any bio-media or carbon dosing. Just run the skimmer and carbon and let the tank start balancing back out. Get those test kits.

Cool I’ll come back to read that article. That checker is on my list, I got the alk checker recently and love it. I will take the gfo out tomorrow and let things settle out. Looks like I’m getting that checker sooner than I thought. Thanks you!

 

[Hans-Werner]

To me it looks like a combination of cyanobacteria and diatoms. Both "algae" are frequently found together, maybe a kind of mutualistic relationship.

 

[AMEE]

Hey guys just to check in. I’ve had the reactor off, I did a quick phosphorus check and it came out to be 14ppb (.043 ppm). I got a salifert silicate kit also and it was pretty much undetectable.

I don’t think it’s cyano more like very light diatoms. It’s not mat like anymore just like a light dust. I got a new pump also so maybe the extra flow will help also. I say this because it’s pretty much on the left side of my tank. The right side has the mp10 and also a shrimp and goby pair.

 

[brandon429]

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/t...a-one-against-many.230281/page-7#post-4107442

That means your problem could have been fixed within 24 hours of your 11/6 post

Nano reefs have a way to be invader free, always. Large tankers often don't, make use of your unique accessibility. The day that method doesn't work, the cure statements will stop in the thread. Your invader means your tank is healthy, not bad, set nutrients around what grows coral, not what starves algae/diatoms/dinos/cyano for a successful long term nano reef

That some organisms would grow on a sandbed which likely can't pass a clouding test is normal, predicted, and the basis of our thread. the cause of your growth is simple nongrazing, which that thread reinstates. It's ok to attempt to starve it, many start that way. If it doesn't work, our way sure clearly does.

Your invader isn't bad and could go away with any minor system change. The habit of action from practiced tank cleaning is preparing you for truly mean hitchhikers that show up, one day, and only require hesitation to thrive.

 

[AMEE]

My tank is fairly new, about a year old now so I’m still trying to find a good balance. I was thinking a refugium would probably benefit my tank more, or maybe just a smaller amount of gfo?

 

[AMEE]

Cool I’ll come back to read that article. That checker is on my list, I got the alk checker recently and love it. I will take the gfo out tomorrow and let things settle out. Looks like I’m getting that checker sooner than I thought. Thanks you!

Hey I finally tested my water. This is what it looks like.

Nitrite 0 (API)
Nitrate 20 (API)
Phosphorus 16ppb (Hanna)
Silicate 0 (Salifert)
Dkh 8 (Hanna)
Mg 1300 (Red Sea)
Calcium 425 (Red Sea)

This is with the system only running the skimmer. I want to rub my reactor with carbon again and want to know if I should put in a small amount of gfo to slightly lower my phosphates?

 

[Hans-Werner]

16 ppb P is 0.05 ppm PO4. I think this is the best concentrations for corals. Do NOT use GFO, this may worsen the situation. Nitrate is quite high. Try to bring NO3 down (water changes, pellet reactor), not PO4.

 

[AMEE]

16 ppb P is 0.05 ppm PO4. I think this is the best concentrations for corals. Do NOT use GFO, this may worsen the situation. Nitrate is quite high. Try to bring NO3 down (water changes, pellet reactor), not PO4.

Thank you I’ve actually been thinking of what to do. What about some marine pure?

 

[AMEE]

This is what the tank looks like today. When I do a water change should I vacuum the sand? Which nutrient export method should I do besides the skimming?

As you can see my problem is on the left side of the tank

 

[brandon429]

Very nice updates

You made that bed clean I can tell by the cross section now.

Truly I wouldn’t do anything now but feed corals, change water, keep that top layer bed clean all like cpr. Slow hand guiding and tolerate some of that ground pigmentation it actually looks reefish to scuba divers it will subside now in your gardening, over a short period of time guaranteed.