Another Cycling Question...... but different

[GamerDadof4]

So it's basically a cycling question - but td;lr - Does the cycle time change based on size of tank and is the live nitrifying 'bacteria-in-a-bottle' really that good?

This isn't my first tank - I've had some smaller ones in the past and pretty much have all cycled in about a month. I know every tank is different, I know depending on type of rock, water, parameters - it can take anywhere from instantly to months.

I have a 220 gallon.

• 90 lbs of Dry Base 'Reef Saver' Rock - partially cured and soaked in RODI for 2 weeks
• 75 lbs of Wet Live Rock (had growth - coraline, etc)
• I used 200 lbs of Carib-Sea Arag-Alive (water in bag)

I added 2 bottles of Dr. Tims All in One since I had such a high amount of base rock. I turned off my skimmer and removed my filter socks for 2 days as instructed.

After the 2 days tested (API test kit - not expired) and got
January 26th-

• Ammonia - .25 ppm
• Nitrite - 0 ppm
• Nitrate - 0

I was really hoping to test a few days later and see a spike of some sort just to know I was on the right track. readings of last night were
January 30th-

• Ammonia - .25/.50 ppm so hard to tell... maybe more towards .50
• Nitrite - 0 ppm
• Nitrate - 5.0 ppm

Does the size of my tank matter? If the advice is to just wait... I'm fine with that but not having done a cycle on large tank like this - I'm not sure what to expect. My other tanks I never used the liquid bacteria and just through in a table shrimp. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[GlassMunky]

Here’s my graphs of my cycle time on my recently build 210G tank.
Entirely started with dry rock and sand and seeded with Fritz TurboStart900 and also MicroBacter7
The bacteria in a bottle most def works and works well

 

[GamerDadof4]

I'm wondering if it is possible that my cycle has already happened (happened quick) and I should just do my water change..

 

[Quietman]

Size of tank matters in how much ammonia or seeding you have to add, but not for time to complete once those have been added.

The general consensus (and I agree) is that bacteria in a bottle works and should speed up your cycle time by few to several days. Adding ammonia directly will also speed up by a few days (as you don't have to wait for any decay).

Bacteria in a bottle however, is not required for a successful cycle it just speeds it up as you don't have to wait for natural population to establish.

There is a lot of debate on the usefulness of subsequent bacteria additions to maintain populations.

 

[GlassMunky]

I'm wondering if it is possible that my cycle has already happened (happened quick) and I should just do my water change..

If you notice in my graph it seems to take a while to get to where it really ramps up, I’d bet your still at that point.

 

[GlassMunky]

Also,
Ditch the API tests they are super unreliable.
I suggest the Red Sea pro tests or Salifert

 

[GamerDadof4]

Size of tank matters in how much ammonia or seeding you have to add, but not for time to complete once those have been added.

The general consensus (and I agree) is that bacteria in a bottle works and should speed up your cycle time by few to several days. Adding ammonia directly will also speed up by a few days (as you don't have to wait for any decay).

Ok, that makes sense. I assumed that I would need more bacteria then let's say a 20 gal nano but I think I assumed since there is more live rock the cycle would take longer.

 

[rapid]

first get a better test kit I had alot of false readings when i started using api. (salifert test kit is a little more reliable). or at least to test ammonia API test for ammonia is junk.

Second how long has it been ? keep testing give it at least 2 months testing follow and record parameters and post here. Also ghost feed a little here and there to start the cycle. you should see your ammonia and nitrite spike and level out while at the same time watching your nitrate level start to rise. Once your steady at 0 amonnia and 0 nitrite around 5- 10 ppm for nitrate you should be good to slowly add a fish and coral. Too much fish all at the same time is a bad idea so start slow.

took me almost a year to cycle my tank to the point were it was reliable and was able to handle a big bio load but i also tried to rush things and lost alot of my stock. I also feed heavily just to sustain it.

 

[Quietman]

I'm wondering if it is possible that my cycle has already happened (happened quick) and I should just do my water change..

I like to add 2 ppm ammonia and see if it's removed in 24 hours and then see a corresponding increase in Nitrate a day later before I call a tank cycled. API can read false but at .25 ppm usually. But you are very close. Give it another day or two and if the ammonia doesn't change color and nitrates still increase you're there.

Don't forget to add ammonia/food source for bacteria if there's going to be delay in adding fish/livestock.

 

[Brew12]

So it's basically a cycling question - but td;lr - Does the cycle time change based on size of tank and is the live nitrifying 'bacteria-in-a-bottle' really that good?

This isn't my first tank - I've had some smaller ones in the past and pretty much have all cycled in about a month. I know every tank is different, I know depending on type of rock, water, parameters - it can take anywhere from instantly to months.

I have a 220 gallon.

• 90 lbs of Dry Base 'Reef Saver' Rock - partially cured and soaked in RODI for 2 weeks
• 75 lbs of Wet Live Rock (had growth - coraline, etc)
• I used 200 lbs of Carib-Sea Arag-Alive (water in bag)

I added 2 bottles of Dr. Tims All in One since I had such a high amount of base rock. I turned off my skimmer and removed my filter socks for 2 days as instructed.

After the 2 days tested (API test kit - not expired) and got
January 26th-

• Ammonia - .25 ppm
• Nitrite - 0 ppm
• Nitrate - 0

I was really hoping to test a few days later and see a spike of some sort just to know I was on the right track. readings of last night were
January 30th-

• Ammonia - .25/.50 ppm so hard to tell... maybe more towards .50
• Nitrite - 0 ppm
• Nitrate - 5.0 ppm

Does the size of my tank matter? If the advice is to just wait... I'm fine with that but not having done a cycle on large tank like this - I'm not sure what to expect. My other tanks I never used the liquid bacteria and just through in a table shrimp. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

With that much live rock, your tank was immediately ready for fish. It is confirmed by the fact you have nitrate with no nitrite and little ammonia.
I wouldn't be too confident in that ammonia reading.

I'd wait a day or two to make sure nothing on the live rock is dying off but otherwise I feel you would be fine with adding a few small fish and feeding them lightly.

 

[GlassMunky]

With that much live rock, your tank was immediately ready for fish. It is confirmed by the fact you have nitrate with no nitrite and little ammonia.
I wouldn't be too confident in that ammonia reading.

I'd wait a day or two to make sure nothing on the live rock is dying off but otherwise I feel you would be fine with adding a few small fish and feeding them lightly.

I totally missed that part of actual live rock being added. I only say the dry rock.
I’d agree with that much live rock you’re probably already good to go, just test to double check

 

[GamerDadof4]

Thank you everyone for the help - There is a million cycle threads out there (I feel like I have read all of them...) and I think it's because you always feel your situation is always slightly different...

I'm going to give it a couple more days, different test kit, and if I am still at the numbers - I'll do a water change to get rid of the nitrate and start up my light cycle.

Also - it seems the API tests are generally not liked... I haven't had a tank for about 10 years and API was big back then.

 

[Brew12]

Thank you everyone for the help - There is a million cycle threads out there (I feel like I have read all of them...) and I think it's because you always feel your situation is always slightly different...

I'm going to give it a couple more days, different test kit, and if I am still at the numbers - I'll do a water change to get rid of the nitrate and start up my light cycle.

Also - it seems the API tests are generally not liked... I haven't had a tank for about 10 years and API was big back then.

I am one of the odd ones that really like the API tests. Easy to use and accurate enough imo. The only real issue is that the ammonia tends to look higher than it actually is. A false high reading is very common. I still use a the API nitrate test.

 

[rapid]

I am one of the odd ones that really like the API tests. Easy to use and accurate enough imo. The only real issue is that the ammonia tends to look higher than it actually is. A false high reading is very common. I still use a the API nitrate test.

agree i still find my self using api for everything other then ammonia. Ammonia reading is taking from my seachem ammonia badge ! occasional i use salfreit ammonia test !

 

[GamerDadof4]

Maybe I'll run out today and get a different ammonia test kit just for sanity sake.

Is everyone good with the wait a couple days and do a water change idea.... Or just do a water change and watch my nitrates fall...

 

[Brew12]

Maybe I'll run out today and get a different ammonia test kit just for sanity sake.

Is everyone good with the wait a couple days and do a water change idea.... Or just do a water change and watch my nitrates fall...

I doubt your nitrate will fall without doing a water change unless you start growing algae. Waiting a few days is always a good thing but that is up to you. It would be very unusual to have an effective amount of denitrifiers in such a young system.

 

[GamerDadof4]

It would be very unusual to have an effective amount of denitrifiers in such a young system.

What do you mean by this? Not sure I understand.

 

[Brew12]

What do you mean by this? Not sure I understand.

The traditional part of cycling we normally care about is ammonia to nitrite to nitrate. There is one more step where nitrate is converted to nitrogen gas. This only occurs in anaerobic areas such as deep in live rock. This doesn't happen much in newer tanks, and can be very limited even in mature systems. So, you can do a water change to drop nitrates, but they will not continue to drop beyond that unless they are consumed by growing algae.

And personally, if your nitrates are under 10ppm when you feel you are ready, I wouldn't bother with a water change.

 

[WVNed]

I would not buy another ammonia test kit. You will probably never use it again.
The API kit will tell you if have a problem. It does show ammonia. It just doesn't show 0 ammonia.

 

[Reef.]

If you do decide to go for another ammonia test kit, I would suggest Red Sea over salifert, I find the salifert ammonia test very hard to read at the lower range.