Another DIY overflow advice

[Reef-junky]

You know about head loss right?

 

[wickette]

really I just want

Not sure what you are trying to do. People don’t put bulkheads on the sump.

ok, I was trying to keep it simple so I get a simple answer. Is a 20L too fragile to drill, seems like most people think it is.

Two different things Im considering, Option Im leaning towards is using a separate 12x12x12" acrylic tank as the pump return chamber, it would add a significant amount of volume to the sump, more room for media/fuge and cut down on about 14" or return plumbing (so less, not more head loss).

Other option is too ambitious to do not but would use two 20 longs as sumps in an over under configuration (offset by 8 inches to have room for return plumbing. Top tank will filtration on the right side, and a baffle separating a foot on the left side which will be used as a top off reservoir.

 

[Reef-junky]

It’s very easy to break the glass when connecting two tanks with a bulkhead like that. If you do go that route don’t move the tanks around once they are connected. I don’t know if I would trust putting one tank on top of another like that without some kind a support. Another option is to have one tall tank and a 20 long. I would put your filter media in the tall tank and leave the return in the 20 long.

 

[wickette]

Another option is to have one tall tank and a 20 long. I would put your filter media in the tall tank and leave the return in the 20 long.

Wow, really dumb of me to not think of this, thank you!
But also Im a little unhappy with you because I really wanted to drill a glass tank and now I have no good reason to.

Is that your setup or picture from the web?

I dont even need a tall tank, just stack 2x4's under the first tank to lift it. I bought 10 sheets of 5/16" acrylic for $50 to use as baffles (they fit the width of aqueon 20H, 20L, 29g without cutting), I made a cube tank out of 5 of the pieces, it got badly scuffed, not useful as a display tank but great for sump use.

I already decided against stacked sumps before seeing your post. I exchanged the two 20L's for a 29g.

My next question is, I want as little space as possible above the sump, I would take it out of the stand to clean the glass/make changes. But for the regular maintenance (reasons you access the sump once a month or less), whats the minimum size gap I should have?

Is enough spave to touch the bottom enough (5-6") or do I need more than that?

(since Ive never used one I cant imagine all the things that come up, )



Both plans are moot now, but, just for the sake of following through..

Option 1: Id use flex tubing to connect the tanks, Ill have 7" of flex tubing between them, 4" not counting the barb fitting. the stand's walls prevent them being pulled apart, moving then 1-2" would only pinch the tube a little, but the tube is wide enough to allow 450% more flow than needed. The only way to put stress on the bulkhead if I push the tanks into each other, which can be avoided by putting a 6" block of styrofoam (or wood, rolled up towel, etc) between them

Option 2: 2 stacked tanks- I have a shelf made of 2x4's to hold up the top tank, not one tank sitting on the other. What I dont like about this option is: two 20L tanks inside the stand will leave only 2.75" above each tank, impossible to do anything in it without pulling out the top tank.

*Im building my own stand, I was going to make it taller to accommodate the stacked 20L's, changed my plans, making the stand low enough to service the tank without the stool. The 29g is 18.5" tall and will be on top of a platform. Internal dimensions of the stand is 43" x 13.2" x 33"

 

[Reef-junky]

That’s my tank in the picture. If you are building your own stand then you can fit a 40 breeder under it. My tank is 75 gallons and I could easily fit a 40 breeder under it. I have a lot more jamed In the stand then you will. Unless you only paid $75 for the tank I would take it back. I went through something similar and end up finding a 75 for cheaper then Petco that doesn’t have tempered glass from a local pet store. Also I would not take the sump out to clean it. That would be a PIA. Use a wet/dry vac.

Two sumps
An external skimmer
Two 2 part containers
One ATO container
One ATS
One reactor
Two dosing pumps
A heater controller
3 heaters

 

[Reef-junky]

As far as height inside the stand the more you have the easier it will be to work on things. I would not try to put something as high as possible under the stand. I think in terms of how much space can I give myself to get in and out for the things I need to do. The overall height depends on if you are going to be mostly viewing the tank standing up or sitting down.

 

[wickette]

If you are building your own stand then you can fit a 40 breeder under it.

Im building mine with crossbeams in the back instead of a plywood shell, I always intended to have a tank with a 12-14" width under the stand. I wouldnt want a 40 long as sump, in theory a 40L would fit under the tank, not a 40Breeder (and I already have my baffles ready).

Unless you only paid $75 for the tank I would take it back.

All Petco tanks, this sale I got the 75 gallon for $85, the 29g for $21, a 20H for $19, 20L for $20.
The next cheapest 75g is $249 (craigslist ads locally are expensive than new tanks)

As far as height inside the stand the more you have the easier it will be to work on things. I would not try to put something as high as possible under the stand. I think in terms of how much space can I give myself to get in and out for the things I need to do.

Right, Ill just leave the sump at the bottom less work (the shelf itself is easy getting it sanded flat and hanging level always take the most time

 

[Reef-junky]

Yeah for $85 you can’t go wrong. Wasn’t sure if they included 75’s in the $/gal sale they use to only go up to 55’s. I think I paid $140 for mine. With a shelf and the other tank raised up you should be fine. So is the whole stand going to be open? The only reason I would not do that is because of the noise from the return pump. In my case I would also end up with light from my ATS. Don’t forget to leave a small gap on the side of the baffles so they can expand. I have read about people breaking there sump. At one point they may pop out hard to say because you won’t get a strong bond. I have read about people get them to stay with no issues but I have also read about people being able to pop them out by hand.

 

[wickette]

No plans for a shelf anymore. Thiers a 2x4 across the back if I want to add one one day.
The stand look like its covered, but all the panels are removable. Theyre lightweight pvc foam board and wood molding that slide in and out of the openings of the frame. It used to be my sneaky way to make metal frames not look so cheap but learned it makes it infinitely easier to do anything with the plumbing.

Ive seen the same thing about acrylic baffles. The 11.75" leaves just over 1/16" gaps on each side of the baffle. Im soaking the acrylic for a week to be on the safe side.

10 and 20L are $1 per gallon.
20H, 29, 40B, 55, 75 are part of the sale but prices seem random. Just learned 29's are $21, if I had the room Id buy a bunch of them.

 

[wickette]

For the sump, do I want the heater in a larger chamber or a small one?

Also any issues using a piece of tempered glass for one of the baffles?