Another fish death leading to despair.

MmmmBalf

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Aug 19, 2016
Messages
150
Reaction score
137
Location
Melbourne, Australia
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Lost another fish today, a female clown, one of the first fish in the tank (from Dec). This is the 5th fish loss over the past month and it's driving me to despair.

The tank is 150g with 66g sump. Filled at start of November 2016 & cycled with Dr Tim's bacteria (dry rock). Cycle was completed start of Dec. I waited another few weeks before adding the first fish on 24 Dec. 2 Ocellaris Clown fish, blue tang & 1 blue chromis. All levels remaining good, I added a Foxface and Firefish on 10th January. I then had a battle with dinoflagellates (identified under a microscope). They really took over the tank, covering rock & sand.

On 5th Feb I suddenly lost my first 2 fish. The tang & the foxface :( Both died at the same time and very quickly. One minute they were swimming around fine and feeding, then within a few hours were dead. No symptoms prior, no marks, no unusual behaviour, no cloudy eyes. Just suddenly lying on their sides on the sand and died quickly. I thought ammonia spike perhaps without any symptoms prior, although I wasn't sure what would cause it. Over next couple weeks I reduced the dinos a lot just by vacuuming them out & I think they were starving themselves, so added another few fish - another Foxface, a small royal dottyback and small green clown goby. A week later after all appearing fine, I went to bed after watching them all feeding, & next morning the dottyback & Foxface were drifting around dead. Again with no warning symptoms. :mad:

At this time it occurred to me that there was one thing that I did the same the night before each bout of fish deaths. I haven't set up my ATO yet (I've bought it, just don't have reservoir yet) and top up manually every day with RODI. Probably 3 - 4 litres depending on humidity (it's summer here). I pour the water into the sump. Both times prior to the deaths, I poured it onto the filter socks. I didn't usually do this, the only 2 times I did it both had fish deaths straight after. Maybe I'm grasping at straws, but I thought maybe the fresh water had caused a mass die off of dinos which gather in the socks and released toxins into the water. Is that a viable theory? It was all I could think of (apart from disease).

I did a 72 hour black out 2 weeks ago just after this. The results were beyond my hopes - dinos seem completely gone. I haven't detected any under microscope. I'm not sure if it's completely gone, time will tell. So a week ago I added a single fish. A Spinecheek goby. The last few days the female clown started behaving oddly. It went into a cave I'd never seen it do before, and was then lying on the bottom in the corner of the tank all the time. The male would kind of lie on top of her. I thought it was odd but google revealed all sorts of odd clown behaviour ;), so I thought it might be ok. She wasn't feeding well either. No marks or discolouration at all. She deteriorated & died.

So that's where I'm at. Sorry for the long post, I wanted to be as thorough as possible. Tank parameters:
NH4 : 0
NO3 : 0
NO4 : 0
PO4 : 0.08 ppm
Ca : 410 ppm
Alk : 8.2 dKH
Mg : 1300 ppm
pH : 8.0
SG : 1.025
Temp: 26 C

Still in the tank: Firefish, 1 clown, green clown goby, spinecheek goby. Also inverts : Coral banded shrimp, sand sifting star, snails (nassarius, turbo & cerith). Only 3 corals - Heliofungia, a plate coral, and a frag of acro (dallas). All inhabitants including coral & inverts appear fine.

Oh, I should mention, at risk of getting bashed over it, no QT. I know it's a risk but it is what it is, I don't have one yet.

Mainly looking for a plan of action. What do I do from here? Apart from recommending QT. I will get one set up soon. Do I just leave the current inhabitants and see what happens? With water changes of course as usual. I can't narrow it down to a disease with most of the deaths being sudden without any signs. Do diseases always affect every fish? How long will it be before I know if the others are infected? Firefish has been through all the bouts of death & appears perfectly fine. Really down in the dumps about the whole thing.
 
You could use a bit of Nitrates for the coral, but the parameters seem fine. It looks like a QT would certainly help, as you mentioned, but nothing quite jumps out at me for the reasons for death other than disease/stress.

The dinos probably had a large affect on that.

Are you acclimating your fish long enough before putting them in the tank? Doing this certainly reduces stress. I lost some fish at the beginning as well in large tank as I though because of the size the fish would do fine. Initial stress coupled with other stress over time can easily drop some fish. I would not pour the the fresh water into the socks. Certainly adding it after would help. Are your water changes at the same temp and salinity as your tank? If not, a bunch of stress could be from that. I don't use a QT and haven't lost a fish in over 2.5 years. I am careful of selection and I feed quite a variety of food, but other than that I don't have issues. I pretty much follow the same procedure as I did with freshwater in which I lost very few fish. I add fish slowly and watch parameters. When selecting I usually buy fish that have been quarantined and have been at the store for a longer time if it is a fish that takes a higher level of care and verify that they eat quickly and have a diet that I am willing to feed. My Mandarin was in a tank for 5 months that fed only frozen food and did not contain pods to speak of as he/she was with other pod primarily eating fish. Knowing what parameters they come from and what they naturally eat is a key to success. Also, varying the diet helps as well to enhance their palate and intake of nutrients. Some fish can be fed every other day and some need to be fed multiple times a day. For example, my mandarin eats constantly during the day, but he eats mostly pods which are very small.

I hope this helps, but I do not have a quick solution for your current tank. It takes patience and unfortunately sometimes loosing livestock to get the husbandry right.
 
I know it sucks, when I started out I added a firefish too soon and it wouldnt eat because my clown was a bully :(
The only thing I can think of is (as you mentioned) perhaps die off OR the tank isnt mature yet-no real diversity. Harder fish like foxface and tangs definitely need that. micro critters.
Im sorry youve lost some amazing fish but your parameters look good, its just still newish...dont get too down.
 
Take a look at the fish gills and notice if the fish are breathing fast or one gills opens and the other side is closed
 
First off, I'm so very sorry that you're going through losses like this! It rots, and it hurts!

There's nothing here that _jumps_ out at me, but there is one clue that's shyly raising its hand . . .

The first two fish to pass were both algae eaters. Rock scrapers. Knowing that dinoflagellates can be toxic, it would make sense that the fish most likely to eat them might be the worst affected.

Still ... wouldn't hurt to get some more eyeballs on your words, and acute minds thinking about solutions - #reefsquad - any thoughts on how MmmmBalf can get this turned around?

~Bruce
 
This does look like a very difficult situation. It is also at least the 3rd or 4th case that we have seen which is almost identical to this. All fish look fine. Either they come home to a dead fish, or they see a fish start showing signs of a problem and dies hours later. All remaining fish look fine for a day or two to a week and it happens again.

I agree the Dino's could be part of the problem. Since this is a new tank it is also possible that the fish were caught using cyanide and were damaged before they were received.

I would like to know what you are feeding your fish, and how often. It seems unlikely to be the cause, but we might be able to find some room for improvement to help the fish survive the problem.

I would also recommend that if you can fairly easily catch one of your fish, do a FW dip on it. If you aren't familiar with how to do this, here is an excellent video of it.
https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/video-how-to-do-a-freshwater-dip.214/
If you do lose another fish I would also do a FW dip on the body and look to see what comes off. Obviously, you don't need to use RODI, temp match, or aerate in this case.
 
Fish are usually fed twice a day. A small amount of pellets (New Life Spectrum) in the late morning and frozen mysis in the evening. Frozen mysis is defrosted in a small cup of ro water (dedicated plastic cup) and then rinsed in more RO before adding. I use half a cube due to low number of fish. When the Foxface was in the tank I had purple seaweed on a clip. I also have frozen whole fish (small schooling fish) that I crush up about once a week for something different.

I didn't think of freshwater dip for the dead fish! dang, I could have done that this morning with the clown. I'm not sure about catching any of the remainders, perhaps the clown. The others are too fast & there's heaps of rock caves to swim into. I hardly even see the green clown goby, he hides all day, only appearing like a streak of lightening to grab food.

I should have mentioned that I'm using natural salt water that I buy from the LFS. None of the deaths have come immediately following a water change. I don't think it's stress related. All the fish who have died appeared happy (swimming around freely & not hiding) and were eating fine. There's no aggression at all in the tank (there's too few fish!).
 
Okay so within the first few minutes of reading and thinking this actually sounds a bit like my case of velvet which essentially didn't show outward symptoms on the skin other than sudden lethargy, hiding from light on occasion, and very abrupt death after not eating for a day or so. It turns out that this strain doesn't show spots on the skin. Heavy breathing was noted but only on the fish most affected.

Hardier fish with thicker slime coats lasted longer and some never showed any symptoms (such as wrasse).

Another clue is that the tangs and foxfaces were most quickly affected. This is exactly what I would expect.

Add to the fact that tangs, foxfaces, and angels have nearly 100% chance of coming with either ich or velvet these days and you do not QT that is a screaming red flag for me.

I know you don't want to hear that but if your fish as breathing heavily/quickly and very quickly deteriorating I'd say I'm 80% sure you have my infamous strain of velvet which is running rampant right now.
 
What do I do from here? Apart from recommending QT. I will get one set up soon.

I'm very sorry for your situation. It's quite awful. This statement makes it impossible to give advice, since that's exactly what you need here.
Okay so within the first few minutes of reading and thinking this actually sounds a bit like my case of velvet which essentially didn't show outward symptoms on the skin other than sudden lethargy, hiding from light on occasion, and very abrupt death after not eating for a day or so. It turns out that this strain doesn't show spots on the skin. Heavy breathing was noted but only on the fish most affected.

Hardier fish with thicker slime coats lasted longer and some never showed any symptoms (such as wrasse).

Another clue is that the tangs and foxfaces were most quickly affected. This is exactly what I would expect.

Add to the fact that tangs, foxfaces, and angels have nearly 100% chance of coming with either ich or velvet these days and you do not QT that is a screaming red flag for me.

I know you don't want to hear that but if your fish as breathing heavily/quickly and very quickly deteriorating I'd say I'm 80% sure you have my infamous strain of velvet which is running rampant right now.

I agree with this. I would bet that velvet is in play here. Without QT with copper or CP and a fallow period for your display, any new fish you add will probably perish along with some of the current inhabitants.
 
Thanks for all the help. If indeed it is velvet, will it claim the other fish? I'm not sure when I can get them moved into a hospital/QT tank, it might be a couple of weeks. The thought of pulling all the rock work apart to catch them is soul destroying.

So the recommended course of action is to remove all current fish into treatment tank & run fallow (for how long, 8 weeks?). Can inverts carry disease? During the fallow period, can I still add coral?

Thanks again.
 
So the recommended course of action is to remove all current fish into treatment tank & run fallow (for how long, 8 weeks?)
Velvet (Amyloodinium ocellatum)
Can inverts carry disease?
They can carry tomonts into a tank which will hatch and release velvet and ick into the tank. So, technically yes. But the inverts are not effected by fish parasites, they are just a vehicle for them. they are to be left in the display during the fallow period.
During the fallow period, can I still add coral?
You can, but it's best to add them at the beginning and not start the clock until you are done. Corals can carry in tomonts as well.
 
Velvet (Amyloodinium ocellatum)

They can carry tomonts into a tank which will hatch and release velvet and ick into the tank. So, technically yes. But the inverts are not effected by fish parasites, they are just a vehicle for them. they are to be left in the display during the fallow period.

You can, but it's best to add them at the beginning and not start the clock until you are done. Corals can carry in tomonts as well.
This.
 
My Display Tank was infected with ich from a mini SPS colony 2 months ago and it was a very bad outbreak and lost 1 fish "Powder blue Tang", Thank Good it is now under control and fish are doing good.
That is a lesson to QT everything before adding to main tank
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top